CamB

I kinda dig it with the wheels (I hated the old ones). You should invest in some spacers though - get them out to the edge of the arches.

Just be happy it wasn't a Pug - same situation, but fire... true story.

You could do it the slightly rangi-er way: - cheapest rpm switch you can find (cheap shift light?) - microswitch on the throttle pedal Link them up in series to trigger a relay? Hmmm. Science project! http://jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=KC5...mp;form=KEYWORD http://jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=SM1...mp;form=KEYWORD (edit) This is cooler - voltage selectable switch, although it would mean you need to get a proper TPS. I don't see why the TPS couldn't be used by both ECU and for this purpose (as long as the E34 one suits the E30's ECU). http://jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=KC5...mp;form=KEYWORD

The CA looks completely lost in the engine bay!

It is a nice car - thanks for being a good owner!

Byzanz Metallic. It used to be in Wellington - the prior prior owner.

Tatra 613? It has a certain charm ... http://www.tatra.demon.nl/cars_history_T613.htm

Z3 is by far and away the most faaaaaaabulous.

What are these gears you speak of? (trying to drag it back on topic). This bike whore also has a singlespeed mtb. I didn't mention it earlier as its not fixed, LOL. It is steel though KHS converted to track dropouts.

Do we draw a distinction between being a fixie rider and owner? No time to ride mine for at least a year. I have two - a '70s Holdsworth track bike, Sugino 165mm track cranks, carbon fork, front brake only (no mounting boss for a rear brake!). Wheels are Mavic open pros on Phil Wood hubs. 48x16, fixed only. I swap between Nitto bullhorns and some random road drop bars which are much nicer to actually ride with but don't look so cool. Also have track bar kicking around but that's horrible to ride on the street. Have had this for about 5 years (before it became cool!). The second is an NZ made Bosomworth which is about 20-25 years old. Paint average - I am going to paintstripper it at some stage as it is nickel plated underneath. It has the Shimano 600 cranks and brakes it came with, and deep dish wheels I built myself. Quite proud of that bit. 42x15 fixed or 42x16 free. Built this about 18 months ago and have sadly hardly ridden it. No pics - too lazy. (edit) James - that's not the point at all... A decent vtec Honda Civic is much faster than an E30... and cheaper.

M88 - how unusual. I'm sure it'll be great and I'm watching with interest

I think they might be telling you the truth unfortunately: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/sh..._pg9.htm#item33

E34 is more than the rear cover - they mount from the side not the top. The guts change over though. For E28 you also need to swap the E30 drive flanges.

Anyone who can fog a mirror should have been able to notice the "2002" badge on the back. For a BMW dealer its inexcusable. By the way, BMW seem to consider the 2002 a saloon, so I don't blame them on that.

I'm pretty sure its just a regular old 265 getrag (ie good enough for M3 and 535i/635i, etc). Its strong. Merc if you can handle the repair bills if it goes wrong. Totally under-rated future classic in my opinion.

I've had PickAPart come and pick up a shell for free. They dragged it (no suspension) onto a flatbed, no worries. JiB wants the brake line tee at the back, near the subframe, with the fittings. I doubt he wants to pay much/anything, so don't expend any effort unless you are feeling generous.

No its kinda stiff. Stiff is good, bouncy is not. Soft and low is bad in my book. Worst of both worlds - scrape on everything.

The King Springs the series race cars use should get you your goal, and are decently stiff - for pics of the cars try here: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=21506 The rears are normal King super low's, I think. The fronts are race series specific.

Rotor and pad size, sliding caliper not fixed. All I really know is that most of the fast M3 powered racers have some sort of brake upgrade, so it must end up being a good idea...

Hmmm, but arguably only just adequate for racing. You might be alright coz an E30 weighs less than an E36, although not much.

Mal certainly outsources the machining of the ramp angles (Mal machines the LSD casing himself) and it may be Kayne who does that part.

Small case refers to the size of the case and the ring gear (168mm), so unfortunately it won't fit into a medium case. http://www.metricmechanic.com/pdfs/metric-...ial-booklet.pdf You need: - an E30 or E28 medium case housing - an E30 rear cover and E30 flanges - a medium case LSD centre - a 4.10 ring and pinion (can't recall from the top of my head where to find, but E34 520i rings a bell). Obviously the first 3 can be found on an E30 LSD. Glenn has posted where he had his swappage done, and a price for the simple job. I have had Mal Clark at Bygone Autos (ph 09 483 3991) do mine. Mal can also arrange to have the ramp angles changed and extra clutches added, and I am sure others can too. Since I had all this done I don't know what simply changing over the R&P and setting the diff up correctly would cost. (edit) Have vague recollection that a 4.10 LSD came on the M3s with overdrive gearboxes.

With enough cutoff wheels and welding rod anything's possible.

Given the price difference between NZ and the UK on M50 and M60 gearboxes I am sure you could find some interest in that area. (I am assuming - always dangerous - you are looking for other people to share costs with).

Its best to have a dedicated signal for the ECU, and there are usually guidelines for where to put it (eg, close to TB, after the throttle plate).