CamB

I see it as a positive - don't have the steering in the way.

Thanks - that's very, very good to know.

Nice one I reckon the price is pretty good.

And don't forget the exhaust on the LHS.

"PM for pricing" seems completely self defeating. Anyone you give pricing to is quite free to put it on the forum.

3.3 litre crank? http://aaron.aussiefiverdriver.com/M30%20engine.htm Or you could find an S38 3.8 litre crank

If he could find a different top hose? http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....amp;hl=radiator

Easy to fix ... if you can find a clutch pedal! Auto's are good - bigger transmission tunnel on a 2002.

Any rust needs investigating. The front end is replaced - the grilles etc are from a later square tail light. Not exactly a deal breaker, but worth noting. I might have the missing trim on the arches, or I might not (I may have chucked it away!).

If you can get them in 4x100 17x7 (or 8) and ~ET15-20 you will be knocked over in the rush.

Ooops, I did the maths in my head wrong. I thought 1mm down the bore. It's "only" 0.5mm. If my spreadsheet is correct approx 0.3-0.4:1 reduction in c/r.

Well, its no longer the "crappest looking BMW in the Hawkes Bay" - didn't you get accused of that?

Wouldn't that have a crappy compression ratio unless you decked the block etc significantly?

Its a really long ball joint that passes through the subframe. New arms are expensive - may pay to try and find a good second hand one.

I wanna tig too - would even settle for a mig! - and time to learn to use it. Awesome update - chunky. Have you routed the wastegate back into the downpipe yet?

Well, he tested it with a crowbar right beside that joint, and its his job, so why would it be anything else? You usually replace the whole arm anyway.

Depends what he wants for it - significantly more than $6k based on the Q&A. Looks like a good quality conversion, and with a cert and at the right price could be good.

Random thoughts: 1) I got JE Pistons (custom) ordered locally, and I am sure CP is also able to be ordered from NZ. The price was only slightly more expensive (ok, maybe 15-20%, but same price as VAC which isn't exactly cheap) than ordering from the USA, and I liked the idea of having someone local (in my case, the place that prepped the block) source the piston - in case of problems. 2) I don't know which block is best, but unless you are told otherwise I don't see why a B20 block couldn't be used. I do know that if you are getting custom pistons, you have the option of using the longer rods from the M20B25, which is good because it has a better rod ratio than when you use B27 crank and rod. You get the custom pistons with a lower compression height. Shouldn't affect the price going custom? 3) The VAC stage 3 head looks very expensive. I am sure you can have someone build a head that can flow well locally for cheaper. Unless you run a monster cam, I'm not sure the stage 3, with bigger valves, offers any benefits over a stage 2 (or a locally upgraded head). If you want to run a monster cam, and revs to match... you start getting into the territory of needing the billet rockers which are unbelievably expensive. Better to keep the revs down, as the cost goes up exponentially. ITBs would sound wicked, so not going to try talk you out of them.

What the wiki page doesn't say is that its French, so it feels good to drive. They set up their hot hatches (all of them) so they turn in well, and you can adjust attitude of the car in the corner using the throttle. Lift off oversteer comes as a free bonus/problem.

Yeah, I like a lot. I quite want one, but am happy enough in the M3. There's a decent chance the Renault is at least as good a car (ie, could show the M3 a thing or two).

It has a KKK K29 turbo, which is MASSIVE, so 0.6 bar is going to give a lot more power than with a smaller turbo.

Are all the electrical connectors still where the should be? In particular the temperature sensor wire for the ECU and the air flow meter connector?

Stock turbo's have a diverter valve / bypass valve which is a BOV which vents back into the intake, after the air flow meter if there is one. I stand corrected on the IAT. I hadn't thought of Mike's point (that the mass of the air is a function of the temp as well). Silly me.

SHouldn't need the IAT - it adjusts the timing etc based on IAT but should have a default setting.

or replace "threaded" with "linear" in the address bar.