CamB

It is a good price. Actually, just thinking about it --> 15x8 and +15 is going to probably hit the strut on the 2002. I need 7" or less for that offset to have the right backspace.

What's the weight like? I wonder if they'll fit over the 2002's brakes. Possibly not, looking at them.

How about this outfit? I'm sure its not the only one. http://www.kiwishipping.co.nz/kiwi-shippin...eralfreight.asp I'd love to find a way of getting stuff here for not too much $$$, so I nominate you as the guinea pig

Someone buy it, roll cage, repaint, suspension, brakes, M30 engine and box. Race. http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....c=23539&hl=

Gains will probably include more space for a downpipe, more direct steering, and probably quicker steering. Losses will potentially include: - potentially very high cost - poor geometry, unless you spend a lot of time/effort/$$ to correct - if not done correctly, dangerous. Requires a cert. - car will turn left when you turn the wheel right (as the E30/E36 racks go in front of the subframe, and you need something, like an e21 rack, which goes behind) http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=57131

Did you get it back from there or did it go around (only asking coz its in the middle of the track and not a lot of steering angle)!

Pics pics pics pics. Please

Mint - getting there I hope you get your camera up and running soon.

LOL - I think I was just seeking to get that admission out of you. Can't the majority of your jappa owning mates just buy something off the shelf, for less money?

3.5 degrees is not so good for tyre wear (and maybe not grip), and you are highly unlikely to be getting enough grip that the camber is necessary. That's all. (yeah - what Riley said - more like 2.0-2.5 degrees) Maybe there is more grip to be had at the front - then you can back the rear shocks off again for more grip at the rear, etc.

I think you need to get it to the track where difference can be measured - too much is too much. Those settings could potentially be sacrificing grip, braking, and stability. Actually on the track, the toe is probably good.

Personally I think toe out and >3 degrees camber on the front is mad, but if it works...

Will be mint after that lot. Bonnet bulge looks good.

I'd rather more on Targa Rotorua. I hope there's footage of Mal Clark's Rover on the last stage. He tells me he let the smoke out of the tyres.

So crunchy, assuming a fuel rail with a return, do you run it to the main tank instead: main tank --> lift pump --> surge tank --> overflow to main tank surge tank --> pressure pump --> excess to main tank (not back to surge tank)?

1) I would gladly lend alloy spanners, BUT 2) I don't have them - I use (carefully) regular imperial spanners and, ahem, a crescent wrench. So the fittings get scratched Would also be keen to see you car some time though, but have had a very full day planned for me tomorrow so its not such a good day.

Greenlane Speed Shop is where I got mine, as I have run the lines inside the car so it was imperative. These guys also have it and will be a cheaper: http://www.fpp.co.nz/products/searchproducts.aspx

Good question - I don't actually know the legalities of a surge tank in the boot. If braided, you want the teflon lined stuff. The ordinary braided hose will also smell of fuel over time. You could also consider trying to get something underbody and integrated - I remember there being a bit of room where the external pump is, but maybe not enough for something like this: http://www.swmotorsport.com.au/contents/en-us/d102.html

Simon - the engine builder - is a Peugeot guy. He had/has a 205 with a dry sumped 300hp turbo 8v 1.9. Last time I talked to him he was going to Mi16 though. Engine info at www.synergypower.co.nz

Local is always handy. So you'll need a pump to fill the surge tank (do you have an in-tank one?), the tank, and an external pump (the Walbro). You will also need fuel injection rated lines. Finding these without paying for braided (and all the $$ fittings) is harder than it sounds. If you get braided, you really should use the teflon lined stuff so it doesn't smell of fuel (over time).

Luke, you have single coils, so you need an igniter per coil OR you need 3x 2 channel igniters OR 2x 3 channel igniters. How you wire them would depend on what you get.

I have to say, I was truely inspired on seeing the second picture. My head is filled with dreams of cruising the streets in an E21, windows open, the wind ruffling my (imaginary) beard.

New toughest E21 you've ever seen

A person uneducated in the ways of BBS wheels and looking at this thread would struggle with the following question: In fact, I'm starting to think they're common.

Am pretty sure the Mitsi igniter has 3 channels of input / output, so only 2x would be needed? Either way, I agree on using the BMW coils purely because it would be tidy.