CamB

Details on the custom flywheel? The M3 is desperate for a lighter flywheel.

I'll reword the question, are you confident the dizzy is in the right position to deliver the spark being triggered by the ECU at the appropriate time? It will need two things: 1) dizzy timed correctly, and 2) ECU getting the right signal and with the right ignition offset, if required, with an appropriate timing setting for starting/idling.

As a general rule, attractive dish is challenging in combination with four/six pot brakes, and it definitely pays to try first. JiB tried quite a lot of wheels before finding the SSRs. Based on looking at my M3, it will still apply to an E36 if its upgraded to Brembo etc.

Quad rotor in a BMW is, believe it or not, old news: (sorry - can't remember how to embed and too lazy to search)

I think I see adjustable strut tops peaking through.

CBF reading back - is it sparking in the right place (have you checked the timing while cranking).

Needs a bigger M3 badge on the back Is there anything extra exciting about it (suspension/gearbox/brakes)?

That's where I have put them in the past (I think there is a pic in the instructions?), but I never knew why. Thanks!

I've had the 2002 for over 7 years, and an old Porsche 911 for nearly 10 years. Combined roadworthy time of the two cars is probably 2 years, maximum, LOL.

This discussion, by the way, proves why you can never find some bits when you need them.

I'm not that bad. Specific to what Penry says, I do have a set of 16x7.5 ACS in 4x100 and a 3.73 LSD "for the day" when I get an E30 project. And a Holset turbo, and an Audi wastegate. I also temporarily have too many LSDs (ahem, 4x incl the one above) and far more M10 gearboxes than I could ever use. And a set of 4 cylinder Nissan individual throttle bodies I'll never use. And a set of Dellorto 45s on an M10 manifold I'll probably never use. Of course I have a few boxes of "stuff" that isn't worth throwing away, mostly off a M10 engines. And a mechanically injected M10 which I should sell. Interestingly, I have no sets of wheels which fit the 2002...

There's pretty solid evidence that having the rim rubbing on the sidewall (like on the pic on the right) is stupid. While I've never personally run tyres outside the recommended rim width, I've used plenty AT the recommended width, which looks a bit stretched.

My rather philosophical point is that just coz it looks a bit stretched doesn't mean it is, and (more importantly) that tyre manufacturers have recommendations ... that matter.

265s (you mentioned in a previous thread) are supposed to go on a roughly 9.0 - 10.5" rim depending on profile, so chances are its not really stretched. 195s are not supposed to go on a 9" rim. That's wrong (although arguable looks pretty mint).

Coz you clicked on a google link to b/s. Change "threaded" to "linear" in the address bar.

That's the point though isn't it? - it looks cool, but not everyone thinks so - anyone thinking it has performance benefits (when super-stretched) is skating on thin ice - pretending it has performance benefits, when 99.99% of the decision making process was "it looks hawt", is just being dishonest?

I've been holding off replying to this, since its not like I know. I would however note that tyres have a recommended rim width, including race tyres, and presumably the tyre companies know what they're talking about. It doesn't suggest mean stretch ow.

Pre-purchase is mandatory on an M3, in my opinion, preferably by a BMW specialist who knows E36 M3s. May be a bit tough with the car in Greymouth though.

The one you're selling! The one going into the car has to be medium case. Evo had large case - good for Evo and not much else. Non-Evo had medium case, good for other E36s, and the ratio and LSD pack could be used in an E30 as well (and Sammy has a WTB for a land-speed record diff).

Sounds good Is the LSD medium case or large case (non Evo M3 or Evo M3?)?

I'm no engineer, but it seems to me without knowing what percentage that is of the whole car (or something) its just numbers on the screen... ... I'll put it another way, how do I know that 211 nm at 1G is meaningful.

Yes

If you start replicating the setup of the US M50 based M3s (cams, decent headers, etc) I believe you can start getting quite decent power up top, but it would still struggle I think to get to 250hp. Having said that, anything over 200hp in an E30 is pretty quick... My vote is M52 or a fairly mild M20, otherwise the cost benefit ratio gets way out of whack.

I have an S50 with 6 speed gearbox - $20k including the car . Seriously, chances of finding one with or without a gearbox for sub approx $8k (my guesstimate) in NZ are somewhat slim. What is the goal? How much power, and why...

Its a well known problem with those manifolds - drill the holes out a little larger and some port matching required on manifold. Its also common to cut the manifold in the middle (between 3 and 4) as apparently this helps. By the way - the above "advice" is offered without responsibility - I haven't tried it!!!! Just summarising what I've seen online (google m20 ebay manifold). eg: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showt...d.php?t=1234989 http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55879 http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66219