CamB

I always assumed race tyres were referred to as (in your case) 240 wide, 61mm sidewall, 16" wheel. Anyone know?

Vanos: http://bmwfans.info/original/E34/Lim/525i-...11/ill-11_1282/ Non-vanos: http://bmwfans.info/original/E34/Lim/525i-...11/ill-11_1281/ You might have to do more research on that one. I don't see how Vanos would hurt - I reckon it would help spool the turbo earlier, given the point of Vanos is to make he torque curve wide, etc. But.. Depends which Link. The latest one runs dual vanos, so single shouldn't be a problem at all... I think I read somewhere that single vanos is pretty simple anyway. What do the pro guys use? I would assume power steering.

Does no one ever search? Andrew had one. Actually that's a bit harsh - the problem is that the search engine on the site ignores three letter searches, which is extremely friggin annoying when BMW uses 3 digit engine codes... http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....43&hl=turbo http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....07&hl=turbo http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....94&hl=turbo Will cost heaps. All turbo conversions cost what you think they will cost, multiplied by 2. It's strange - even you try and do it cheap, it will cost cheap x2. If you try to do it right, it will still cost 2x the higher number...

Father in law's car needs a little TLC

I'm after the driver's exterior door handle (complete) and the exterior trim that goes around it for a late (as in '94/'95) E34. I don't know if they are different during the years. I need the ring that goes around the lock too, but the condition of the lock isn't important as I will use the existing one (the main housing of the handle has cracked). Number 1 - (which is cracked) from this one http://bmwfans.info/original/E34/Lim/525i-...41/ill-41_0724/ Number 1 (bung) and number 3 (missing, and the reason the bit above broke) from this one: http://bmwfans.info/original/E34/Lim/525i-...41/ill-41_0730/

Nah this is the funniest article ever on Stuff. A Jack Russell terrier - oh the humanity. But seriously. I couldn't write something that funny! - Nobby's Hill - top speed of 20kph - batons and capsicum spray - pleasuring ... while wrestling - home made sex aid (is that the jar? or something else?) - that terrier...

Bump from me as I've finally got around to getting the photos off the camera. Just a couple of quick shots of E30s at the sweeper... And one of my favourite cars (but I'm biased)...

A quick google suggests an e36 328i was for sale last month with that plate: http://209.85.173.132/search?q=cache:4MooL...lient=firefox-a I am so curious as to what E30 bling you are looking for...

"The Mount Shop" has "uprated" engine mount bushes. Not sure how uprated they are though.

I have a 4.27 in the 2002, which has a 318i gearbox and runs the same size tyres as an E30. It's actually a pretty good ratio, unless you plan on going over 197kph (note - you'd need a long piece of road to go faster than, even with an M42). (edit), although its so short that first gear is useless.

I'll be keen to see the outcome of the before and after dynos.

Be careful on the boost on a standard computer - its hard to get the right amount of fuel AND correct timing without a proper standalone. It would be a shame to bung your new engine.

Shitty ebay manifold in NZ: http://www.drivenperformance.co.nz/scripts...?idproduct=1225 Take lots of pics if you decide to do it

FWIW, the six puk racing clutch for my race car, with uprated pressure plate, was only slightly more than an OEM BMW clutch too. Its 228mm diameter, so similar to an M20 one. On-topic... I would agree totally with the comments on regular maintenance, and would add its very helpful to find someone who knows how to troubleshoot any problems with the car quickly/accurately (ie a BMW specialist). But not the dealer. They charge too much and (in my experience) don't especially care about older models.

My opinion... Turbo your M10 if you can DIY (although 250hp is getting up there)*. Put in a Nissan CA18DET (cheapest) or SR20DET if not, or a Toyota V8. Japanese option are probably the most cost effective IF you can keep their stock computers. The CA and SR are my suggestions as the exhaust is on the passenger side. You'll need a gearbox and custom propshaft for the Jap options. Good examples of M10 turbos: http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46634 http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index.php?showtopic=8958 Just remember Mike's comment in this thread on page one: * Yes I know people have 3,465,869,708hp from their M10. Ask me when mine's finished and been to the dyno, but I'm doing it properly (forged pistons, 2 litres not 1.8, decent ECU, etc) and will be delighted if I can make 250hp at 14psi, and it doesn't blow up. (edit) As t cost - just estimate what you think it will be, then double it. That should be close enough...

Well it comes back to power goal then.

Well I reckon it looks mint. What were you a competitor in?

Most of that kit is craaaaaaaaaap. You need bigger injectors. You need a downpipe for the turbo. More importantly, you still need a computer to control fuel/spark. Yes, I know people do it with rising rate fuel pressure regulators and blah blah blah. But I am convinced the only proper way to do it is with a proper standalone EMS like a Link, or Megasquirt (for a cheap option). US$800 would quickly become NZ$4-5k if you can weld and know what you are doing, even for fairly low boost. Paying someone else? Easily $2-3k more I reckon by the time the bugs are ironed out.

What is your power goal? Unless you are good at fabricating, neither of them. Both can be very expensive.

Wouldn't be too hard to repower with a series eligible engine (realistically would have to be an S50). Would cost a few bucks though.

Yeah I think that Nissan motor might have a better racing pedigree than any of the production engine options in an E36.

PM him and sort out a price - should be cheap. It's in my pigsty of a garage (big cleanout needed) but no problem to get it back to his place as I will be driving that way Saturday. He only took it out of his car last night so I know it works.

JiB has one - where are you?

The induction noise alone is worth it! If you aren't changing the cam or internals (much) that 32/36 Weber is probably fine though.

I have a manifold and Dellorto 45s that I need to sell at some stage. The 45s are a bit big for a street engine though (was going to run them on a race engine). Will sell separately and 40s are cheaper to buy anyway. Chances are no matter how long you take to get around to your project, I will have been too lazy to stick them on Trademe, haha.