CamB

Yep - there is a minimum requirement for belt mounting points which I am sure it meets. I just don't like the look of it - that doesn't mean it isn't safe.

BNT has Redline if that's what you want.

The cage is approved, and it has raced at an event so it must have been scrutineered. There is no requirement for a cage to pick up on suspension points (I wish mine did). I personally don't like the way it goes behind the dash... And I agree that the seatbelt mounts look dodge.

Are there other types of challenges besides mechanical and electrical? Best wait for Glenn to see this and give you an opinion on the electrical side. I don't see why the motor swap part, assuming an M54, should be too much more difficult that an M50 swap. The major issue could well be cost of engine and gearbox.

LOL - ready to go plow some snow.

By searching before asking ANY question. Every question. Why wouldn't you search first?

Pick A Part Avondale has an M30B35 in a 735i - almost all of the engine seems to be there. No radiator, something missing at the back (can't remember), but diff still in it. Didn't look inside engine to see the condition. Couldn't be arsed. Did get a Honda Accord pedal box and throttle cable for $9, to go with my Honda Prelude throttle body (grafted onto an M10 manifold). Also got wasted spark bits (coil pack and ignitor) from a Mitsi Lancer for $32, and some very nice waterproof plugs from an Opel for $4 each.

You're quite right. Mind you the spacers aren't ok anyways, so I guess you'll need a spare set of wheels for WOF.

Far out that is some serious track. Wheel rim outside arch can mean warrant fails, so you might have to, errrm, "move" the arch.

Before addressing the question ... is the engine at 120c? Coz that is hot. 90 isn't hot (needle straight up on most BMWs - I assume its the same on an E28 - halfway).

I dunno - if in doubt, get out your multimeter and check its getting power, then run the pumps into a jar to see if they are doing what they are supposed to. But I am glad you found the problem

Have you tested yours yet? No point in replacing if it works.

Woah ancient thread. FWIW was just having the "Dog and Lemon" discussion yesterday. I am also irritated by the comments implying some cars are crap if you don't maintain them... well, maintain them then. It sort of implies Toyotas don't need maintaining.

More fuel pressure pushes more fuel through the injector for the same opening time. For this reason I would expect the injectors and fuel pressure regulator would need to match the ECU.

Are you absolutely certain you swapped all the relevant bits with the engine - ECU, airflow meter, etc. In addition to the list above, are the fuel lines going to the correct end of the fuel rail (ie is the pump going to the right end)? I have never swapped a B25 into a B20, and haven't looked closely enough at the differences, so can't help much beyond that.

Has the engine ever run properly in this car?

Big 6 or little 6?

On your car, yes. E30 is too old. I am pretty sure it has some sort of batch fire - it might split them into pairs or threes (that's usual), but am pretty sure the computer only knows crank angle not cam position. Ok did some more research (I want to know) - they are two groups, odd and even - page 34 of this 16mb doc: http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e30/e30_89.pdf I looked at the '84 diagram and 123 and 456 are grouped.

I doubt it - they're probably batch fire ---> all at once. If they are paired it would be 1+6, 5+2, 3+4, but I don't think the E30s had any sort of sequential fire (happy to be proved wrong).

I feel really, really dirty whenever I see that gearknob, but I guess that's the point of it!

Thanks - much appreciated.

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....st&p=146553 Glenn - if its not too much hassle could you please post the exact brand/product. Thanks, Cam

Turbo - you'll never get anywhere near 180rwhp without one, even if you bore it out, convert to throttle bodies and run an aftermarket computer.

Given the HellBM calendar, pretty awesome ones I'd say.

Sweet, coz it looks mint Just make sure you get the right box for the conversion (with the sensor holes), and ALL the other bits needed --> clutch pedal, spring and longer rod, clutch master and clutch line, clutch slave, the gearbox itself, clutch, pressure plate, flywheel (also specific to the prefacelift), shift cradle, linkage, lever, boot etc, plus the gearbox crossmember, and the front half of the driveshaft and whatever else I have forgotten If you don't get everything, the costs can add up pretty quick unfortunately. (edit - and clutch fluid reservoir).