CamB

I wonder if he'll sell it without the wheels but with a v8? Why do people openly BS about these things? Everyone does it. I plan on doing it if I ever sell my car - I'll sell it as "better than 10l/100km on the open road" ... which is is. I could probably nana that down to 9 litres if I turned the aircon off and drove to Hamilton. That's 20-30% better than I average in mixed use though (about 12.6l/100km, ouchies)...

If it is a dogleg first, and hence close ratio: a) its worth a bit of money; and b ) top gear is 1:1, so if you change the diff ratio don't pick a diff recommended for an overdrive gearbox...

While I would agree and never suggest anything else unless you verify it is exactly the same (and even if it is, its unlikely to be cheaper anyway).... I'd like to add that, bar the last oil change (ie since I bought it, haha), my M3 engine has had services by BMW agents only - every stamp in the book. It hasn't stopped the VANOS from being growly after 110k km (10 BMW services) - apparently worn VANOS gears. I'm not too stressed by it.

There is a reasonable chance that the correct Castrol Edge 10W60 product is the same as the BMW Castrol TWS oil they recommend: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=236372 Or you can do what I did and google "castrol tws bmw e46 m3" and find heaps of discussion - warning, it will do your head in. So many different views... so few experts.

Unfortunately rebuild costs on them are extremely high, like Ross says. It's the main thing that puts me off them (even more than the cost of buying one). The last one I saw on Trademe was about $7-8k I think. You never know if they'll need a rebuild, but since I was considering it for racing it more a matter of "when" rather than "if"... Which is why I am going turbo.

Carbed or injected? I'll assume 2 litre, carbed M10. Generally speaking the M10 engine responds somewhat to: - higher compression (change pistons) - if you are rebuilding the engine the best option is probably these - a lumpier cam - eg Schrick 292 or a regrind, valve springs, new rockers - a decent exhaust (hard to get a good manifold, unfortunately) - suitable carb (or sidedrafts) That lot will definitely cost you though (ie, thousands of dollars), but should give around 140-150hp. You could also install a shorter diff - is your gearbox a dogleg first gear (1:1 5th gear), or overdrive (first gear up and left)?

That's a good enough reason to plan ahead.

If anyone else has a spare I am after one too, plus the shift rod.

I've seen them (in real life - not just the internets). http://www.dasautosport.com/khxc/ccp0-prod...trolarmset.html RealOEM shows them as being 1988 onwards: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=31&fg=05

OMG, nicely reinforcing the "latte sipping Aucklander" stereotype right there.

You know Motronic 1.3 needs **something** right? It just doesn't use those sensors - it uses a different sensor and trigger wheel that a PFL M20B25 doesn't have.

Nah. I suggested New Lynn coz its close to New Lynn. Why make life hard on yourself when you are flatting and can easily choose somewhere convenient?

Well it's a long way from Botany! Braeden. - If I were you I'd live nearby to your place of work, unless you have an incredibly strong need to be walking distance to somewhere cool. New Lynn and most surrounding suburbs are actually not too expensive (for Auckland) to live in and I reckon its a nice enough place.

So very, very true.

Harnesses are Monza FIA approved ones. They expire after 5 years. For that reason you can buy expired harnesses (ok for trackdays) for cheap cheap. Not suitable for an Authority Card (Motorsport NZ) based WOF though. Eye bolts in the lower rear seatbelt mounts and the outer lower front seat mount, and eyebolts mounted into a plate (to Motorsport specifications) through the transmission tunnel on the lower inside. I **think** JiB got the plate from The Bolt Shop, but am not certain. The plate sandwiches the body, has a minimum size to meet, and you have to rivet it (drilling holes in the corners) in place, from memory. Like this (although in stock, LOL): http://www.thomsonmotors.net/shop/OMP+Prod...teel+plate.html (edit) Ooops, beaten to it. To add to what JiB said, while harnesses might be a hassle, if you keep the seatbelt you need to find a way of keeping the standard seatbelt buckle with an aftermarket seat, which is not easy.

A bit less than that I think, unless you want him to start tweaking it. BTW, it's worth it for him to tweak it for extra hp.

Not sure they are any different in geometry - just alloy.

There you go - I deleted my posts too otherwise my answers were meaningless.

You need some sort of crank angle sensor - I don't know if the gearbox one can actually work with the Link (given its in two parts). I am buying a 36-1 trigger wheel for an E30 M3 front pulley, and I know they run the gearbox sensors normally, so maybe the gearbox sensors don't work with an aftermarket EMS (ask Link). If you are set on not using them, then the Motronic 1.3 sensor/bracket/pulley thing are probably the easiest way, if you can find them. With that you can run with the distributor or wasted spark. If you want to run sequential ignition (and/or injection) you will need a cam angle sensor too, which is a whole 'nother ball game. I don't see the benefit to it.

Wrong forum (this is WTB). You should put a price.

I've seen that car - I suggest anyone wanting it go and have a look at it or at least ring and ask the right questions - its definitely a project/parts. The auction text is honest.

So, so many $$$ worth of shiny parts! Super nice installation too! Has it made it onto a dyno yet? I have so been thinking about this for an E30. Forget V8 E30, V8 E30 TT is where it is at (I actually wondered about a big single, but same same). Everyone needs 500hp+.

Depends on the rust. I dunno - what's the definition of cheap? I think it is pretty good value since the engine looks to be pretty decent spec etc. Colour is good Trim almost all there. Subject to rust (haha - worth mentioning twice) it looks like a good useable classic to me. I have a set of Dell'ortos and a 2002 manifold tucked away. Never used them, haha. I had plans...

My wife doesn't understand I don't hate them - I really, really like them. I just see there is a little potential for bubblemania in E30 M3 pricing... and as financial conditions have tightened I really do think their values must suffer (or already have). I have pretty realistic views on the values of my cars, FWIW. I have a '69 Porsche 911 that I really should get around to selling as I don't drive it, and while I would like to think its worth UK prices, or Australia prices, the SELLING prices here in NZ don't justify it. You do see cars advertised for quite a bit from time to time, but they don't sell. My issue with E30 M3's is they don't ever really seem to sell here... they get advertised a lot, but they never seem to change hands much (or it is amongst the same group of people). That was fine while it lasted, but I sense more of an oversupply of cars now that economic times aren't so flash. I could, of course, be totally wrong.

I agree - it could be no more complicated than he actually wants to SELL the car (rather than advertise it), and potentially it could have a couple of minor resistance points (ie condition not great). Lets assume he does want to sell it reasonably soon (for whatever reason), and there are 3 others for sale at around $40k ish, what alternative does he have but to at least kick off an auction process at a lower number. Maybe, shock horror, the market value of M3s isn't that high...