CamB

I got quoted about 1/2 the cost for the Noltec ones compared to Powerflex, partly because they are cheaper but mainly as they take pity on me at BNT and give me a good deal (tip: its good to build a relationship with your local BNT - they may start giving you semi-trade prices). OEM was about the same price as Powerflex I think. FWIW, I chose OEM for my street car and would probably only use urethane for a track/race car (the Noltec ones wen't on JiB's car).

Check out http://www.consumeraffairs.govt.nz/consume...money-owed.html You can text and find out for $1 a yes or no: Then if its a yes you can worry about a full report.

That would be the airflow meter, and I'm surprised it ran at all without that connected!

WTF is it with English forums and forcing you to register... If original are too pricey and/or you definitely want urethane, you can get Noltec ones from BNT for a pretty good price.

Wow, that seller is up there on the pricing and down low on the feedback.

If he does that it probably won't want to start at all when cold. FWIW, and based on the limited info provided, I think the auxiliary air valve isn't working and the idle has been turned up to compensate. But realistically this is just a guess. A huge vacuum leak is also a possibility, which could create detonation ("bubbles of air in the fuel pump" sound?). I'm really struggling to tie in the "won't rev past 3k when cold". (edit) OK, so the OP needs a plan: - check plugs, rotor, cap - check ignition timing - check for vacuum leaks - test auxiliary air valve

Cool project - am looking forward to seeing how it turns out Take lots of pics of the process of getting the RB in there - will be helpful for others in the future.

They're here, on the thermostat page. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=11&fg=35

You can possibly buy generic ones (eg Noltec ones from BNT) and new bushings, and adapt. Look in the catalogue for universal sway bar mounts and bushings.

It'll be on real oem. You might have 3 or even 4 (not saying you do - I haven't looked). Possible candidates include: - cold start - ECU temp - dash temp gauge - OBC

Yeah - anywhere central is good, and thanks

Make sure its the clutch not the master or slave cylinders. You could try Gavin at EuroItalian - one of the forum sponsors.

For aircon, do you a recommendation on somewhere? I am underwhelmed by mine - its ok at moderate exterior temps but I suspect it won't make me happy once it gets over 25 deg outside.

In addition to being rude, he's "sold" a few cars in low reserve auctions that have ended up for sale by him again - ie shill bidding.

This bothers me quite a lot too. I think we need to be clear here - I don't see a problem with springs that are very slightly loose (but impossible to remove from their seated position) when completely unloaded. I do see a problem with springs that are miles away from being captive. That is asking for trouble, and not just WOF trouble.

You madam, are the very definition of NIMBY.

Cable ties won't cut it unless you get lucky (and they don't notice them). I've had another look at the regulations. I don't reckon they're right about "wiggling" it. The permitted changes are: Doesn't say it has to be tight - just that it has to maintain contact and self retaining. Unfortunately arguing with a WOF guy is almost always futile...

With good tuning. With good tuning. With good tuning. With good tuning. With good tuning. With good tuning. Wouldn't personally go over about 6psi without proper tuning.

Probably not - the reason they'll be captive when you jack only one side is because of the swaybar.

I am keen on this... in which case... Wayney - would have a standard 325i exhaust for $50 (but obviously only if I got Mark's noise maker).

This is the last thread it was discussed in: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=17597

Google for plenty of views - in particular from the UK - of it being a good idea, in particular with a bigger throttle body. Then again, there are other opinions that you lose torque low down. Sort of depends what you want. 3pedals who posts here is adamant it is a crap idea and you are better getting M3 headers for a power gain (through the rev range). I've googled it before and found dynos that suggest that: - you do lose torque below say 4000rpm - quite a bit - you do gain power above that - the power holds on longer - it works better with other complementary mods (eg headers/exhaust/throttle body) It's sort of bolt on, but not really. http://www.emotors.ca/articles/40.aspx

Yes, and I don't really know as it was part of a whole lot of work, including changing the ramp angles and getting a 4.27 ratio in there, and other work on my car. I would guess at least $500, plus any bearings/seals that need replacing, if you just wanted it set up with an extra set of clutches (involves machining the housing slightly larger).

I think he paid less than $200 per seat with rails and brackets etc. Do you have brackets? http://www.nzkw.com/seats/mounts.htm ^ They have rails, and they have brackets to adapt to an E30 (which I've never looked at), but I assume they will raise the seat which is no good. From the picture the rails look similar to the Jamex ones which I modified. You should measure the distance between the E30 mounting points and ask what the distance is on the rails...

In JiB's car: Jamex seat - from Jamex Jamex brackets - came with seat Jamex sliders - came with seat Slightly ovalise the Jamex slider mounting holes (by about 1-2mm), and mount in standard position using appropriate hardware (it needed cap screws at the back I think, and 16mm head bolts at the front - the tricky bit is having something small enough to fit inside the rail). Figure out what combo of organising the brackets and spacers that came with the seat/bracket/slider to get the seat to fit. The alternative is to get something welded up, although that would technically need a cert.