CamB

The car hadn't been aligned before, so who knows. The big difference you feel is how the steering starts to weight up as you turn and the dynamic camber helps a lot. You do need to get it aligned afterwards - moving the wheel forward does mess up the toe.

You could try and see if "Mount Shop" do the diff bush - they are cheaper than OEM for engine mounts etc. http://yellow.co.nz/companies/Automotive-P...217781_317.html

It could be the M5/M6 engine. Although I seriously doubt it.

Bravo - you should try the bushes. JiB's car felt fantastic after putting them in when it still had more or less standard suspension. It improved turn-in heaps.

Wow that is a haaawt e21.

Good price for an LSD (edit - yes, realise its not an LSD. Just winding you up on the price. Good luck).

Certainly less than 1 deg is probably a bit low for spirited driving. The E30 Series race cars are limited to a max of 2 deg and they handle pretty damn well (although some guys want more camber). Either way, it isn't adjustable - it is what it is. I dunno on toe - whatever the factory recommends. Its the only thing you can adjust anyway!

5 mins on the internets suggests the seal may be the same as the o-rings on the fuel injectors... Have a search for part number: 13 64 1 730 767

If you are DIY (ie don't pay labour), then you could just see what the camber is after getting the offset castor bushings, and if its too low get the offset top mounts. The M3 offset castor bushes are good - I have them on my E36 M3 (and mine the late E36 M3 Evo with longer control arms). I have monster castor, and it feels great.

Last time I was there Mal had a set in stock too. Ph 09 483 3991

Yeah, but don't knock VTEC ... if your M20 was DOHC and VTEC it would have nearly 300hp. And the whole "Honda's have no torque" thing is relative. I had an EG Civic with a 2.2 litre Prelude engine. It was way torquier at low revs than my M3. You really have to get the M3 over 3k revs before much of anything happens.

http://www.bntnz.co.nz/ I got some for less than $100 the pair (I don't remember how much less).

BNT if you can swing a discount - they have Noltec ones. I still reckon good luck on the wheels - 205s always seem a tight fit to me!

Sounds awesome I am really keen to see how you get on. Those tyres might be a squeeze, but I guess you'll find out.

Don't forget the Fiat 850: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiat_850 More rear engine, rear wheel fun. Damo on here had a project one a couple of years back .... thinking rotor powered!

It's not $3k - you can get a second hand one for about $600. Tuning can be the expensive bit. I'm already sensing budget is an issue to any type of turbocharging.

It really doesn't help that the site's search engine won't do a 3 letter/number search. Plenty of info here. Note that Mike has some decent fabrication skills which saves heaps... http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....58&hl=turbo

As per my last response on diff ratios, your 4.27 is fine unless you change the engine, and if anything a 3.91 would be a downgrade as it will offer less acceleration.* * Note: To be fair there will be tracks on which a 3.91 may allow you to change gear less, although with a 1.6 its not like you can rely on torque to pull you out of the corners...

www.racetep.com BMW 2002 owners in the USA have had mixed experiences with them - some love them, some hate them. They are apparently good for "in stock" stuff.

Actually the Commerce Commission idea isn't a bad one - one of their roles is to regulate monopolies abusing their powers... which appears to be the case. And they tend to take their job pretty seriously.

Geez this thread is getting out of hand. Link base price is $1500, plus a wideband and an air temp sensor, which would make it about $2k. I figured MS to be about 600-700 cheaper, like for like, but for my purposes the new Link series is way better (logging, better supported in NZ, etc). A lot of companies offer an installed and tuned price for Link - the installation and tuning of a MS would cost the same. I'd love to see the dyno sheet of 320guy's mate - I believe it (why would he make it up?), but for 16psi of boost that's a pretty solid power figure. It could be the combination of parts - a GT30 is a big, efficient turbo, and with high compression it will have a high VE, and the bigger turbo and the wastegate setup it probably revs out quite well (not choked off like most turbo systems built for response)... I'd like to see where power was made. To the original poster - re-read my first post in the thread about doubling any cost estimates. (edit) Turbo calc (which I understand to be reasonably accurate for a well designed system): http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/graph....p;product_id=37

A quick look at the Wiseco catalogue suggests there may be a Mitsubishi option if you can find rods to work with it. But its unchartered territory though...

Not on my car - I have M Countour II, cos its a sedan.

Not that I have any, but I remember a set of the 4 door ones being for sale on Trademe by Carspot I think. Or did you want coupe?

Doh! I had a vague feeling I got it wrong. Stupid coz I should know. I have looked at tyres sized that way before.