Boost Junky

Lol Max! You need to invest in the internet.. surely its much better rates over there than here. Marty, when I put the motor back together I locked the cams at TDC and crank then followed the user manual as per position of the cam gears which says to turn the cam gears so that the bolts are hard against the left of the slots (M50 have factory sloted cam gears if your didnt know) But yes thats true I wasnt sure how much difference the gasket made but how do I tell? Oh so A/F ratios are not always nicely sitting on 14s cam? Too late now Ross finished tuning my car by Wednesday lunchtime so I found out today. He said it only made another 10kw with an extra 1000rpm and up at 16psi of boost. So I think the motor has some restriction which i believe will be in the air flow somewhere, could be the factory intake manifold being restrictive? Yup they checked the motor over for boost leaks and shes sweet. Even though my setup has only made an extra 10kw im hoping the torque is much better with the proper tune now. Will the turbo spool better now with higher boost or will that make no difference? I am yet to collect the car or see any graph printouts as they are tidying up loose ends finishing off looms and getting her to a tidy standard.

Do a skid John Seriously thought I wouldnt be suprised if the courier has misplaced your parcel. You wouldnt believe the amount of times they screw up the delivery of our daily freight or misplace important parcels!

If E30s wernt invented this never would have happened! did i say that...

Step 4: You now need to support the differential with a Jack and undo the bolt that supports there rear of the differential. Step 5: Undo the driveshaft bolts that hold the driveshaft to the differential. This is easiest done by having the handbreak on and the car in first gear or, having a mate holding the brakes on for you which is easier as you dont need to get out from under the car when you need to turn the driveshaft to get to the top 2 bolts. Step 6: You now need to remove the handbrake cables from inside the rear drums. Unfortunately I didnt take a photo of this step. You need to undo the allen key which holds the rear drum disc to the hub and slide the drum off the hub, the handbrake must be released to slide it off. You then have to remove the mounting bolts that hold each brake shoe to the hub assembly these are an Allen key bolt also which you turn 90deg anti clockwise to release them. You then remove the top and lower springs holding the shoes together and pull the shoes off. Now you will see the cable that actuates the bottom lever that the shoes sit against, pull this lever apart by removing the two dowels that hold them and the cable together as a unit (take not of how it must go back together or a photo to save a headache later on!) Slip the cables out of the hubs. Step 7: Remove the rear exhaust section to make way for the subframe to come off. You may also need to undo the shield covering the center hanger bearing and undo the hanger bearing to allow the driveshaft to pull away from the subframe enough. Step 8: Now its time to remove the subframe, undo the large bolts on the left and right hand side of the car that hold the subframe brackets under the subframe. Step 9: Undo the two allen key bolts that hold the subframe brackets too the body. These are visible from the outside of the vehicle. Make sure you do not loose the plates that are between the bolts and the brackets. Pull the brackets from the subframe. Step 10: This can be the tricky part but if your lucky like me you should just be able to lower the jack down and the subframe should pull down away from the main subframe bolts. I got stuck with the driveshaft not pulling towards the front of the car enough for the subframe to be able to pull all the way down, this is where its probably easier if you do undo the center hanger bearing for the driveshaft.. Remove the speedo plug from the back of the diff. Lower the jack.. Subframe out.. INSTALLING THE NEW BUSHES AND REAR END Step 1: Take the subframe and remove the differential from the subframe if you are using your existing differential. You need to take your new or existing subframe and E36 trailing arms to a press and press out your old bushes and press the new ones in. Remove the E30 trailing arms from the E30 subframe if your using the this subframe. It is very important you get the subframe bushes up the right way! A lesson I learnt the hard way haha. The trailing arm bushes are more difficult to get out, the press I was using was not adequate enough to remove them. If the press cannot press the trailing arm bushes out like in my case you need too improvise and make a tool up out of long threaded rod and sockets to slowly pull them out or you can also burn them out (messy). The new urethane bushes for the trailing arms are easy enough to press in by hand, apply some rubber grease to them to ease installation. Step 2: Assemble the E36 trailing arms to the subframe you are using and jack the new subframe setup up into the rear end of the car. Make sure you slip the driveshaft through the center of the subframe before you push it right up into place. Put the subframe brackets back in place and put the main bolts and allen key bolts back on. If this step is difficult it can be easier if you bolt the bottom of the shocks back to the new trailing arms to help support some of the weight. Step 3: Jack the differential up into place and reinstall in the reverse order of removal. Be sure to plug the speedo sensor back into the rear of the differential Step 4: Now you need to remove your old driveshafts/cv joints from the old E30 trailing arms and diff and put them into the new subframe setup. You may need a rattle gun to remove the hub nuts holding the driveshafts in through the Hubs. Step 5: Call me lazy but... Continue too re-assemble the car back together in the reverse order of removal. Go out and select a nice set of 5 stud wheels! TADA!!!.. Pretty easy conversion I thought! Just time consuming really. Now go and DO A SKID!!!!

As promised to you all I would share my experience on the E30 5 Lug conversion. Now first things first... Disclaimer blaa blaa im not responsible for anyone elses vehicle/incidents resulting from the instructions as per this post, I am not a qualified mechanic and am known at times to be slightly slow and incompetant. Second of all I want to thank a top man Ray @ HELLBM! Cheers for the mean hookups on the E36 running gear dude. Ray will happily help you with any of your BMW enquiries and parts needed at a very competitive rate. So Cheers mate! Right im going to keep this simple guys! Parts List - 1x E36 318ti Rear subframe - 1x Left hand rear E36 318ti trailing arm/hub - 1x Right hand rear E36 318ti trailing arm/hub - 1x Front Right E36 Hub with caliper - 1x Front Left E36 Hub with caliper - Pair of front E36 Shock absorbers - 1x Front Lower Rear Control Arm bushes with castor offset (Can get these nationwide from any parts place in Nolothane or Noltec, forgot part no.) - 1x Pair of rear E30/E36 Subframe Mount Bushes (N92964 thats nolothanes number i believe) - 1x full set of rear E30/E36 trailing arm Bushes (W62187 Noltec number) Optional: - I replaced my front and rear pads at the same time and will also be replacing all four brake rotors. - Would also be a good time to replace front lower control arms, Sway bar Links and Sway bar mount bushes etc. REMOVING THE FRONT E30 SUSPENSION SETUP Ok so here goes nothing.... Step 1: Jack the front end of your car up and place it on axle stands with them located under the chasis rails. Remove the front wheels which I dont think needs explaining? Step 2: Undo the front sway bar links from your lower control arms. There should be a nut on the underside of the Lower arm which is a 13mm bolt i believe. If the ball joint or the lower bushings are worn on the sway bar link replace them. You can tell when a ball joint is worn by excesive play and movement in them, they should be really tight to move if they are fine. Step 3: Undo the traiing arm rear mounts from under the body, there are two bolts holding each one on which I believe are a 19mm bolt. Then pull them off the lower arms. Now that you have the sway bar mounts off the vehicle you will need to take them into a machine shop and have the old bushes pressed out and the new ones pressed in. If your replacing the rear subframe and trailing arm bushes you may as well get the shop to do these all for you at once. The front new ones should look like this: Step 4: Undo the bolt that holds the hub onto the lower arm ball joint and also the tie rod end nut. Step 5: Remove the Inner control arm ball joint nut to release the control arm from the vehicle. This picture best displays the location of the nut on each control arm, you can just see them circled in red.. Step 6: This is where you must be careful you can either use a ball joint seperator or give the area a smack with a rubber mallet on the side of the area where each ball joint goes through the hub. If using a mallet this could take many descent sometimes painful smacks. The inner control arm ball joints I simply smack down from above the subframe with the mallet. Releasing these three ball joints will remove the lower arm from the vehicle. Step 7: Undo the Brake hose from the brake caliper. You may want to clamp the line to save a mess.. Step 8: Undo the top nut inside the Strut hat to remove the E30 Front shock absorbers. The shock should and hub unit should all just drop out of the strut tower. Repeat these steps for the other side of the vehicle. Note: You can re-attatch the lower rear bushes to the control arms again at this stage. Use some rubber grease to slip them back on easier INSTALLING THE E36 FRONT SUSPENSION COMPONENTS Step 1: Re-install the lower control arms on both sides of the vehicle but this time you will be adding the E36 front hubs Step 2: Slip the E36 hub assembly onto the control arm and tie rod end like this: Just slips straight back in place of the E30 one. Make sure you remember to do up the brake hose onto the new hub assembly. Step 3: You now need to slip the E36 front shock up into the original top strut hat and redo that bolt up from the top. In my case I have purchased E36 coilovers and have adjustable camber plates which required modification to the strut towers so I cant quite display a picture of this step.. however it is pretty straight forward. Step 4: Attatch the lower end of the shock absorber to the E36 hub unit. There is a bolt which goes through the top of the hub and through the shock with a nut to do it up at the other side: Then do the bottom two bolts of the shock up which go through the bottom of the shock and into the lower back of the hub like this: Step 5: Re-install the front wheels and lower the car back to the ground. You will notice even with the offset castor bushes the wheels will still be sitting rather far back in the guards. I took my car to an allignment shop and they professionally pressed them to the perfect amount forward to return my original castor. REMOVING THE E30 REAR END Step 1: Jack the rear end of your car up and place it on axle standsand remove the rear wheels. Normally I place the axle stands under the subframe but in this case you are removing the subframe so You need to find another secure location to place them. Step 2: Undo the lower shock absorber bolt on each side as pictured and remove the rear springs from their perchs. Step 3: Clamp the rear brake hose out on the arm where the meet the hard brake lines and undo them from the hard lines as pictured.

Blair aka _BRS_ has one that is for sale only done like 80,000kms. Hit him up dude

Happy Birthday Lance!

Yea real thick! I kinda acted like a sheep when I selected my hg. Same as what everyone else used over in the states, but it would probably be better on a thinner one but more likely to go bang but I could definitely get away with alot thinner I guess. Haha yea I definitely will Glenn! I dont even know what to expect yet haha!

Whoa man! Serious work going on in here! Thats gonna have some awesome balance I bet... didnt realise you had this going on behind the scenes. Top stuff and nice turbo you have there! Will be watching this closely! Care to let us know?

Yea stoaked as haha! Lol that skid mish video forgot about that.. oh those were the days!

Tough son I want your wing damn it haha! Please make mould Haha my dad was like "oh your selling my 40th birthday present I got" lol! He got that dashmat for his 40th birthday back in 1999 and it still looks like new haha! Gonna be awesome when you have completed this bro! Tail lights are looking good and I think the eyelids will look tought JiB

Ahh as I thought, thanks Glenn lol Yea 4500rpm is not the best especially with only another 1500rpm to go in this instance and only another 2500rpm when it limits at 7000. Its running the electronic controller that came with the Link so via the link with the 6psi spring installed. That doesnt suprise me on the 25det with the GT30 as they have the least amount of flow across the range of RB, JZ and M50 motors. And both with such big exhaust housings will be the main contributor. But your right with such a small exhaust housing for the size of my turbo its strange how its so laggy, maybe the manifold flow and design? Haha yea im just dying to get behind the wheel but at the same time scared lol never driven something this powerful yet. Yea skids get boring after a while im going to atleast attend one drift track day but thats about it they are really harsh on your car and expensive. The rest of the time will be doing car club and track race events. Yea the headgasket is something like 3.556mm which is damn thick! Hence lots of people have major issues with getting them to seal prooperly. There is like a 3.0mm thick shim then 2 gaskets one side and 3 the other side of the shim. Not sure how far out the cam timing coul be? This can only be corrected by pulling the rocker cover back off aye? This is the Non Vanos motor, vanos is to problematic for me to bother with and I knew I was going turbo so made sure I bought the NV motor. Yea I think shes still got plenty off puff left in here shes good for upto 650hp I think? Hopefully make 300kw Yup ill definitely let you guys know whats going on or any changes!!!

Im not quite sure. It is genious in most cases but I know for a fact if I were back in the school days again and my father done that. It would make me hate him even more and deep inside id probably be laughing because knowing that Daddy payed for the wheels in the first place is bearing no real huge loss on my end.

Is that where you made that first video of ur car with the new suspension in it not so long ago Henry?

What is boost threshold cam?

Haha thats awesome E30-323ti! Interesting to see the comparison. Whats your name btw haha? Always have to call you by your user name Very interesting indeed. Yea early days of tuning yet and dont really know what to expect once shes tidied up a bit. I do know that it was really rich on those runs in the video and on the dyno graph. Thats what gets me is how crap the torque is she makes. Like my mates 1jz turbo made roughly 1900nm of max torque at around 18psi. And yes yours makes more torque at 3000rpm than mine does in total. Surely somethings wrong here, maybe because we only have the rev limit at 6000rpm on my motor? Yea it seems that cause my turbo is lagier and kicks in later that you make more power at 3000rpm. Is your graph with the factory twin turbo setup dude? Yea thats awesome the torque on your setup be good for racing! Which is more important than power. Yea roughly 4500rpm she makes full boost which i think is high correct? But yea thats the beauty of the bigger single turbo setup it will support right up through the rev ranges. Yea that would be much expected to have that kind of torque at 2000-3000rpm but my motor is now decompressed from 10.5:1 down to roughly 8.5:1 i believe the MLS 0.140 makes it. Yea maybe because your boost is coming on earlier its making more torque down low? Thats probably where the smaller twin turbos make their mark? Im really keen to see the difference between your final tune and my final tune with your holset bolted on cause I really have no idea where the M50 boosted stands compared to the likes of 1JZ 2JZ and RB25s. So Cam there should be more power to make up past 6000rpm if he lifts that rev limit up aye? How much difference should I expect with teh igntion timing played with and the AFR ratio brought back down to 14.5:1? I like them too be much better if I knew how to read them lol and no I dont have the boost. Ohh its a GT3540R with the 0.70 A/R Compressor side and the exhaust side is i think 0.63. I would like to get a copy of the boost graph aye I'll get one of the final run aye? Im running a turbosmart Pro Gate 50mm.. it hardly even needs to work aye you hardly hear it open etc...

Oh thanks Hybrid. Im using MOVAVI at the moment which is pretty good but will definitely give that ago.

Your a madman Henry haha totally awesome at the same time though. I admire your courage and well balanced setup car unlike some

Definitely Jamez! Cant wait to see what hes tuned in the next few days. Ill try upload a HD video tommorow

Haha for sure Ecko Complex! What power is ur M3 making again? Thanks for the commets guys! Im so stoaked aye even though Ive only got a base tune making this power is exciting, didnt sleep much at all last night haha... Yea Cam and that was real rich Ross my tuner said so when he starts to bring back the fuel and play with the timing that will also help her get some higher numbers also yes? Heres the video youve all been waiting for, unfortunately my mate didnt video the 261kw run but thats ok. Best part of vid is 3:07 onwards enjoy...

Bahh I give up trying to convert the footage ill suss it another time. So the car was tuned last night right, went out there after work and we got straight into it bit of mucking around and found one of the injectors wasnt pulsing properly. I headed back to town and found another 4 550 rx7 injectors so we managed to make a good set of 6 up again. Now this is where it gets interesting, this was only a stage of Basemap tuning which is pretty much figuring out where the maps roughly should be pretty much running richer than it should. She made 210wkw (281whp) at onnly 6psi of boost and only a rev limit of 6000rpm!!!! WTF! So after a few tests and power runs we decided before calling it a night to whack her upto 13psi... what did we achieve? nothing shy of 261wkw!!!!! Thats a nice juicy 350whp!!!! Im absolutely stoaked aye! Cant believe the easy power these things make. Now the motor should safely be able to be raised to a rev limit of 7000rpm so I hate to think what kind of power she will make at that! Heres the graph... check out how the power is still wanting to just accelerate up up and UP! But is restricted by the dyno 6000rpm limit: Will have video and images up soon of the night Luke

Haha oh this just reminds me of 2 weeks ago.. I was in a rush to get to work pulled up next to a drive through ATM withdrew $20 took my card but forgot to grab the cash. It appeared 1 week later in my account again couldnt figure where this extra $20 had come from. Lucky for me the machine sucked it back in! So your not the only dumbass round here Ashkan

Thats so badass Sammy! So so jealouse of your brake setup haha! Roughly what kinda figure would one be looking at for a setup like that?

Atta that is purely magnificent! Such prime condition dude big thumbs ups from the boost junky haha! Those pics at the carpark look awesome.. SICK!!!