320guy

Dont do a m50. DEFINATLY DO A ROTA!!!

That bbs wheel with the stretched tyre looks stupid.

proof?

Its a "c" panel, and to be honest I cant see the difference between the c panel and the s panel as long as you have the color profiles set right. (and I have had both the c and s right next to each other) Its an awesome monitor and the only reason Im selling it is because my motherboard crapped out so I am getting a laptop.

We need to have HAMILTON E30 MEET!!!! I has e30 m50.

i c u found mai kah

Thanks, I was in a rush when I did that Yeah, if I can find someone else to take the engine etc. I just need to get rid of this stuff.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Members/Listings....?member=1773451 Got a few things listed. For any of the BMW stuff that dosent sell, make me an offer, I just want this stuff gone.

Dosent this make the rear wheels stick out a bit further, 25mm or somthing }?

Yeah it is. But.. gotta make money some how.

You could try the m52 manifolds, they arent proper extractors or anything, but probally an upgrade from the cast iron manifolds that you have. Ditching the cat wont hurt anything except for the enviroment, but who cares anyway.

Yes you can, I got mine for $45. You just need a press to press them in and out.

SI batteries or brass nut on the back. If you give the dash a whack does the needle move / come right? To take out the dash remove the kick panel above your legs, look up behind there and you should see two round aluminium nuts you can undo with your fingers, take those off, and you should be able to pop out the panel underneath the dash. Take out the screws that hold the panel in that surrounds the dash cluster and remove it. Now you can get to the screws that hold the dash cluster in. Unplug it (you need to pop out the clips that hold the plugs in) and then you can have fun wrestling it out past the steering wheel. Behind the temp gauge theres a brass nut, make sure thats tight.

Sounds like fuel pump to me. The little non return valve in the pump probally has crap in it jamming it open, and if its got crap in it, its probally stuffed. While your cranking the engine give the fuel pump a good whack / whack the tank. Even if it isnt holding pressure when you turn it off a good pump shouldnt take more than a second or so to re prime the lines and pressurise them. Your car should have the single intank pump. My car had similar symptoms for a long time, until it wouldnt start at all most the times without giving the tank a whack, then a few weeks later it died completely. You shouldnt need an additonal check valve, they work fine from the factory with out one, putting one in would just be a bandaid. But if you were to put one in, put it at close to the tank / fuel pump outlet as you can.

Not really a HID problem, but the retard driving. But ive noticed that if someone is high beaming you with HID's (coming towards you), you are completely blinded.

Its not that the HID's are so bright that they blind you, its more when they are coming towards you and they go over a bump or somthing and they "sparkle" and get you in the eye and distract you, same when they are following you and get random flashes of light in the rear vision mirror that distracts you. Of course if someone is coming towards you with their HID's on high beam then you are compeltely blinded, not like normal bulbs that if they are on high beam you can actually still see where you are going.

Jesus calm down. If they arent properly adjusted they shouldnt get a WoF, just like the low and high beam lights. My e30 dosent even have any front fogs, I think e30's with front fogs look funny.

Yep, turns out I had the small case diff. Didnt take much to break it at all: I now have a medium case 3.63 (need to find a lsd center for it ) and the larger 325i axles.

My mate had the same problem, I cant remember exactly what the problem was though. We ended up putting a new transmission in it anyway. If you do end up needing a new gearbox, it just so happens that I have one for sale on trademe http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=223283405 It was rebuilt approx 80,000km ago by marshalls transmissions.

Front fogs are fine, they are aimed low to cut under the fog anyway and shouldnt shine in your eyes. HID's are sh*t, those motherf**kers are blinding from km's away even on low beam. Utes / 4wd's are even worse because they sit higher, especically if they are tailgating you, and especially if they have HID's! I think alot of people dont even know they have rear fogs and dont even know they are turned on. Tho they are handy if someone is tailgating you (assholes in 4wd's / utes), or if you are backing up a driveway at night or somthing and need a bit of extra light. While im talking about utes and 4wd's, why do most of them insist on trying to race up the kaimais, trying to pass every truck, when their vehicle is way too underpowered and moving the slightest bit faster than the truck and holding everyone up. Makes me rage getting stuck behind one trying to pass a truck when they should just sit behind the truck because they cant go much faster then the truck anyway!

Oh I see, you just modified it so you can run an aftermarket RRFPR correct? Im planning on using the stock FPR. Yeah, im using an fittings. They are purrdy

The ball joints press out of the control arms and you can buy new ball joints and press them back in. - Thats if you were just replacing the control arms because of the split ball joint boots.

If the balljoint is spinning when you try to undo the nut, just put a jack under the balljoint and put a bit of pressure on it and then undo it. Sometimes you have to put a fair bit of pressure on it (ie, almost lifting the car)

Replace the rubber flex disc on the driveshaft, replace hanger bearing, put adjustable brake bias valve in, do the rear bushings etc, cut a few old brackets off that arent used anymore (afm etc), hook up idle control valve, and a few other little bits and pieces. Oh, the AN fittings arent as expensive as people had told me then... Pics of your fuel rail would be cool, why didnt you keep the standard one?