tibbs.james

If Parted out I'm Keen on front strut Housings & the Gear Knob

I think I can Help Will look through my box of crap once i get my car back from the exhaust shop. pm me on Wednesday or something.

I'm About to be in he same boat here, my car had its wheel alignment before i fitted lowering springs and after the lowing springs it still felt fantastic. However i will need an alignment after i do my tie rods and fit a new steering rack. what would be a recommended wheel alignment With 1" lowering springs, I'm sure this must be a popular setup and somebody must have their settings handy ?

I noticed on your trade me add it says there are some missing hand brake springs. I can throw in those springs and clips and stuff since i have some spares laying about.

pm'd Brent

Well it turns out to be the Cap & Rotor after all I assumed it was good because the last time i checked it, it was actually fine. ( smacks head against wall for being a munter ) However it got eaten up real good by corrosion. So out came the die Grinder and the soldering Iron and building up the contacts with solder actually worked.However this is a temporary solution only to get me to the exhaust shop and then to a WOF. See the wanted to buy section if you can help me with a good or new cap and rotor

I can get a cap and rotor from pelican parts for $165 NZD shipped but if anybody out there can do a new one for me at something near that ( for new parts ) i would like to hear from you. However if you have a near new or Mint Cap & rotor i might also be considered. Any Help Appreciated Regards James

Put in new spark plugs of the same type and no sucess. sigh...next thing to test would be a different cap and rotor ? & fuel pressure ....

Cheers David I am currently using NGK BP5ES ( i think thats what they are ) have been fine for 10,000 kms i suppose i should try bosch ones ? also does anybody know what the resistance is ment to be for the plug leads ?

Hi guys One thing after another. Car has been parked up in the garage for about 6 weeks, the batter was removed to jump start another car and not re installed until today. on the first crank the engine appears to fire and some burn't fuel etc comes out the exhaust but after that if i keep cranking it just cranks over and over and does nothing. It has spark i checked that. Dizzy cap and rotor are good. engine is definitely getting fuel. all fuses and relays seem to be in good working condition and the battery is a good near new unit. oh engine is 1990 m20b20 in e30 any help much appreciated

Since the old head would have to come out anyway, why not have it checked for straightness and hardness before buying a new cylinder head. Then just fit a new gasket .

I have some factory spings near enough to Christhurch if you can't get any others and if they don't do it I also have some good condition factory rear shocks that i may be able to part with. Again if nobody else can help out. ( don't want to infinge on any other deals )

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-170177491.htm Spotted this on Trademe Surely these don't pop up often ? and a 260 kmh/ speedo too http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-170178062.htm

Could one say its nice to know that an E30 3 series is at least comparable in safety with an E34 5 series ?

Apart from the fact i have an e30 as a daily drive..... M3 I would take an E30 One. If i did not have an E30 at the moment I would be looking at a 5spd manual E36 I would not sell an E30 to upgrade to an E36( unless it was a well priced M version), however i would be more likely to sell it to upgrade to a 5spd E34. Confused ? To be honest I Like all of them, provided each particular car has a few certain things Like leather 5spd manual & Everything in tidy good working order. But really I like My Datsun/Nissan 300zx the best

Yo Fair Call, do you have an example of one that works properly? Even if i take my car to an exhaust shop i don't think i could get one much better than the picture posted above. Edit checked out the deisgn of some collectors on honda b18 engines, reading online a longer tapering collector is better for mid range torque. so i whipped up the image below on autocad.

Well just playing around with autocad I sorted out how im going to build a collector, so i can merge the twin pipes into the single pipe shortly after the oxygen sensor. ( this is so i can keep my oxygen sensor and not have to have a new flange cut when there is already a pefectly good one there) I plan on doing a full Autocad 3D model & Plans of this exhaust with all dimensions needed incase anybody else wants to know any dimensions, Or if they want to build one. this pic here was just pissing around really. If somebody Could give me some information on headers I could attempt to do a 3d model and create plans for building one. Primary Length & Diameter ? Secondary Length & diameter ? Perhaps somebody has some good pictures Well Deisgned or L6 Headers ? Thanks for the Offer Wayney, Im not ready for headers yet but it would be fun to mock some up on CAD.

For those like myself needing parts I'm going to try this outfit out. Bearing Hanger http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/sh..._pg2.htm#item13 Transmission Mounts http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/sh...M_pg1.htm#item0 Engine Mounts http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/sh...n_pg1.htm#item1 I should get mine soon & I will report back on quailty of the parts.

3pedals You seem to know all about this which is great, In my Case I'm Planning a Facelift M20B20 with Factory Cast Manifold with a single 2.25" pipe into a single resonator then into a matching muffler. Will it be worhwhile using mandrel bends, or will it be fine with just regular old crush bends ? mandrel U bends are only $30 each , but since im not using a Exhaust Header at all will it make any diffierence ? Keeping in mind later on when i swap to a B25 engine i suspect it will be fairly factory aside from maybe an ecu chip and a camshaft with a bit more lift and duration ( again still using a factory manifold )

I was putting a lot of $ through repco at one stage & got to know all the staff quite well, eventually i asked about getting some stuff through my work account ( i had persmion from work ) and they offered me a trade card application. Has been quite worthwhile i only get 10-15 % on stuff but its still very handy

Needed a breakeer Bar and a long pipe to undo all 4 diff bolts this morning, but ive head the same thing from a lot of diffierent places about diff bolts. Thats very interesting, never got repalced so i guess there is a high possibility it is this, a powerflex one might be in order. Actually as somebody mentioned above if the engine mounts were a bit flimsy that could be causing exactly what you said. Quicksilver to me it sounds whats happening to me might be the exact same thing that you described. so changing a centre hanging bearing thats ok, but are you saying the hanger itself can get damaged and then become non useable ? Quicksilver- I think im going to buy you some beer for that piece of information. Well thanks very much for the help guys- I reckon i might have it under control now. I think getting that propshaft and bearing hanger checked out is top of the list & a new diff hanger soon after. For piece of mind I think that the next diff that goes in will be checked over by speclailist

No rear swaybar fitter Lowered by about 25-30 mm at the back Most of the time its one clunk, but if going at low speed in first or second gear at light throttle it can be a series of clunks Now that the rear cv's axles or whatever are off the car whats the best way to inspect them, they currently still have boots on them.

Ok hi All I will start this from the begining. My car has always had a "thud" from the rear suspension right at the back when you apply accelerator sharply. Once i did a manual conversion after a while, it got louder but it seemed ok. Cad was also fitted with a very smooth very clean low kms diff at the time. About 3 months ago, it got so bad i pulled out the rear subframe and did Both subframe and control arm bushings & new shock mounts. This gave the the chance to repalce all the obvious stuff that normally makes clonky bad noises right ? Result was the rear end was stiffer & nicely planted but I still had horrendous clonking thudding noises from the back of the car. It happens when 1) low speed say in 1st gear when applying throttle smoothly to take off nicely ( the sensation is like a learner driver bunny hopping except im not trying to take off in 3rd gear or anything stupid) 2) when changing gear less smoothly than normal ie ( change gear apply throttle & Bang) 3) when you go around a corner and loose a bit of traction ( feels just like a leaf sprung datsun with worn shocks axle tramping ) The noise is deffinatly from the back of the car, rear seat passengers especially notice it. It seems louder on the left hand side of the car ( in my car the left side is the one which loses traction first) Replaced parts are as follows Subframe bushings = New Ireland Engineering Uinits Shock Mounts = New Ireland Engineering Uinits Rear shocks = near new when i bought the car & are still perfect. Rubber Guibo = new from manual conversion second hand parts are as follows Small case Diff > Nice and smooth when turning this over, made no whining or noises or anything, felt super good compared to the diff it replaced. Prop Shaft > universal joint dosn't feel loose or anything like that, center hanger bearing felt like new when it was fitted with manual conversion. Rear Half Shafts > I suspect these all along & I still do but upon removing the complete rear arms this morning they do not feel loose or damagaed when turning overy by hand( Both Sides) PLEASE PLEASE HELP ME I will be Fitting a Med Case 325 Diff & 325 Stronger Axles ect. what happens if the problem is still there? What can I possibly do if the problem comes back ? send the useless car to the crusher ? I totally Love this car to Bits but i simply will not settle for something that makes horrid noises, expereicne tells me that noises like this lead to something breaking which could case an accident or crash and hurt people.

Hi Mike Very keen on swapping for a med case + cash your way Pm me some contact Details Regards James

As above Small Case Diff out of a 320i I bought this Diff From Pete @ Eurorec who said it came from a lower kms 318i Nice and queit & Feels smooth to turn over. Could use some side seals. Don't know how much these are. will be filled with new oil. $150