tibbs.james

Hi Guys Had Urethane bushings in my E30 for a couple of months now. the Rear control arms seem to be making a quite loud creaking noise when the arm is moving up or down & they seem to be really noisy.(I checked this by removing a rear wheel and jacking up the arm and listening to it) The control arm bolts were all torqued up as per Factory specs. Is this a lubrication issue or are these bushings just ment to be really noisy? They are the Ireland Engineering type.

I had to make a bid myself Anything under $500ish for that lot is a steal.

Dave Initially i though the same thing but after further investigation on the ARP website i need to use one of these "We highly recommend using a stretch gauge when installing rod bolts and other fasteners where it is possible to measure the length of the fastener. It is the most accurate way to determine the correct pre-load in the rod bolt."

Hi Guys This is in off topic Becasue its applies to a Nissan V6 Turbo Engine. I bought myself a nice Dial Gauge so i can check the runout of my crankshaft and check end float and what not as per my manual. but with my ARP Rod bolts after reading on the ARP website their is quite a bit involved to set them up with a stretch gauge ect rather than just go from the readings on a torque wrench as per factory Bolts. I don't have a stretch gauge & unlike the dial gauge i just bought which i will use a fair amount, I only really need to use the stretch gauge this one time & I don't really want to buy one just to use it once. Can anybody help me with this ? There is Box of your Favourite Beer in it & some gas money for you if you have a stretch gauge and can come out to rangiora and help me set the stretch on my rod bolts. Regards James

Datsun 240ZG Nice !

Again In no order Works Rally Datsun 260z Sierra RS Cosworth Nissan R390 GT1 Road Car ( yes there was one made - only 1 ) Ferrari 250 GTO Plymouth Road Runner Sure only one of that list is really that rare or amazing, but each of those to me are amazing cars that all bring something different and desirable to the table. Sure no BMW's E30 M3 would make number 6

I had many clunks in the back of my E30 I eliminated about half of them by doing new subframe bushings. Didn't change my diff bushing but the one on my old diff was a little cracked around the rubber & the one on my new diff wasn't. most of the clunk was actually stuffed Cv's worth checking before you pull your diff out i suppose.

A couple of years ago at high school Robbie Deans came to talk to our school and we got to shake his hand and talk to him ect. He was very motivational Great Guy. And thats about it for me, 2 of the 3 people i want to meet are dead and the other is very old. Chris Amon, Denny Hulme & Bruce MClaren. Have wanted to ever since there was a really good documentary on TV about them.

Done Have sent you a message Regards James > to mods, sorry about the spelling I didn't realise it was a bit crooked.

As above looking for a lhs indictor lense for a facelift e30 Cheers James

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-153706050.htm

wheels remind me of those Sony octagonal sub woofers, surely they could put something a bit more "BMW" on there ? but yea that looks great ! I hope they build a real concept of it not just a CAD render

wow there goes about $3500 easy. It will be great to see you make progress and raise some eyebrows. how do you plan on keeping traction in that car ? Very interested in what you plan to do with Intercooling/fuel system/boost control ect. keep up the good work. I want one of those turbo's for my Z31, they are just badass.

Oh man My E30 Hit 140,000 kms and said to me " Firetruck you" in the last 15,0000 kms i have done head rebuild, Gearbox seals and new clutch, center hanger bearing, brakes , subframe mounts & I still need some new half shafts. I did talk to some old guys in a 88 325 done 440,000 kms and he was on his 3rd head gasket

moktar Did I send you a PM ? i think i did but i can't remember , either way I will take one and will arrange credit card ect on monday & phone you.

Hi guys Fiarly specicic this one, I am looking to buy a Reasonable quality dial indicator guage with the magnetic base and moveable arms. wanting to do a really thorough job on the next engine I'm building. ( Nissan VG30ET ) I can borrow a telescoping bore gauge & a micrometer from a mate but he won't lend me his dial gauge as he is always using it ( lathe operator ) I am looking to buy so does anybody have one ?

The real men from southland do keg stands at there 40th party while there wife holds their feet up. No it really happened....... Crazy people I should really say, I lot of cafe staff ( the kind of cafe's that do evening meals and drinks ) have often done barissta / drink making courses Maybe just cruise into a few and ask around ? Grab a long black and a mince pie while your there

I have acess to a welder and a drill press, what are the possibilites that this could be made to fit a facelift car?

My face lift / sensor less box had both lugs already there in position. If you search for it I'm 90% sure somebody on here did a write up on drilling/tapping the lugs so you can use the newer box on older cars.

Import Part specialist from Chch has them in stock, thats where i got mine. Graeme On my 1990 Facelift E30 both ball joints pressed out and were replaced fairly easily. But yeah next time i would have gone with the complete arm for the hassle of having them pressed in/out- Guy that did it for me said it was an ass of a job to do.

He means the the circular rubber bushing that the control arm piviots on thats at the opposite end to the inner ball joint. I did read somewhere that you are not supposed to use an old bushing on a new arm.

The shanks on each ball joint is tapered so once its sitting in place correcty it just tightens up.

In my E30 I removed both front control arms myself, Bought both inner and outer ball joints for each side $150 exc gst ( mates rates cash deal ) and cost $80 to have them all pressed back into the control arms for me to re assemble. took me a 40 mins to remove each side and took me about the same to re assemble. Ireland Engineering have a pretty good deal for a complete control arm in ball joints ect too. Might be worth checking out. Hope this helps James

I let it rachet back in and now its fine.

yeah its not stuck at the clip bolted to the seat, Stuck at the high end by the headrest/piller