tibbs.james

I had a 4.45 in a 320i Manual it was not ideal. 3100 RPM at 100kmh, Switched to a 3.91, far more drivable and doesn't feel any slower unless you feel the need to push more than 140kmh. 2700 RPM at 100kmh with the 3.9

Gah Sell the datsun .... no never thats my "Project Car" far more unique than a 4 door E30.

Seems as if you summed it all up right there, And very good point about the depreciation on value

Maybe i should just do shocks,urethane and keep it, A big problem with this is i can't tow anything or fit a Mountain bike in the back

Can the M20b20 head be used with a 2.5/2.7 setup ?I vaguely remember being told there were differences that make this a less than ideal combination. However i am unsure on details.

Hence off topic, no offence taken Edit - the m20 2.0 is a bit slow though

As title says, should i upgrade to my dads old company car. 2001 Subaru Lancaster 6 "outback" its got leather its got a boot and a tow bar. its done 170k with full service history from new. dads company is upgrading and he said i can buy it for trade in price. $6000( keep in mind its easily a $7000-8000 car. Or Should i keep my E30 4 hdoor which i love so much and put in some Bilsteins and do some suspension bushings E30 has done 150,000 km, Leather ABS 4 door tidy straight car. I have done a lot of maintenance on it 5 spead gearbox swap top end engine rebuild lowered etc. They both get around 28mpg around town fuel economy Both get around 34mpg on a long trip Insurance is going to cost a fair bit for the 3L Subaru and i just love my E30 so much its just the best car ive ever had, and its easy to work on. Anybody have any opinions ?

Sorry about the link, after all its what off topic is for

Its a long Read but its worth it . http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=128515&page=2 I freaking love his manifold

Awesome loving the BMW keyring from Supercheap

My impact driver fits right onto a 3/4 socket drive, if you combine that with a long extension and the wobble twisty joiner thingy and hold it all really tightly this will do the job much the same as using a power bar and a long extension will. Good luck with this, i always seem to have bad luck with downpipe bolts and have been through this recently as you might have guessed.

Exhaust manifold = Cast Iron try and carefully undo the bolts wit the correct socket, if you round them bash on a size smaller socket and then unbolt them. If the Studs snap then you basically need to remove the exhaust manifold so an engineering place can remove the broken bits and fit a new stud for you. For the bolts get them from an exhaust shop as they will sell you the correct self locking type. they only cost maybe 50c each. this is at least the experience i had. Hopefully it all goes well.

Euro Rec in Canty told me $350 i swapped a good 320i Auto trans which i could not seem to sell for a mint 3.9 from a car done 79,000 kms

Better a new head gasket than some toasted pistons and having to really start all over again. May i ask why 1mm was skimmed off the block, i would ave though a light surface would have done it ?

QuickSilver my car is a 320 and with the 3.9 it feels pretty good its not to slow. and also gets 100km to 10L(not nanna driving but not thrashing ) If i had a 325i would have gone with something like a 3.64 to be around 2500rpm at 100km/h

I went from a 4.45 with the Getrag 260 3100 rpm @ 100kph to a 3.91 with the 260 2700 rpm at 100kph A lower ratio would be nice but, i think the car would feel a bit slow being a 320.

Yeah man another CHCH member ! Welcome Nice car, looks good !

As mine needs doing as well, what is the process for actually replacing this bush i gather it involves unbolting drive shaft and lowering down the gearbox cross member & Possibly removing the engine mount bolts to tilt the engine to gain enough access ?

What is the process for this tuning ? Sounds interesting Do they use a Rom emulator on the dyno and compare wide band exhaust results between runs and then just burn the chip at the tune that works ?

you should be able to have it done by an electronics specialist ? for not too much, Would you mind sharing the .bin file on this board ?

Screamer pipe won't pass wof, consider the $350 its costs to have the car certified so its legal on the road too.

Please define a "better bike"

Hey there Mate When the temp gauge rose all of a sudden on my E30 i decided it was a good time to do the job and do it right. It was not too difficult to remove all the components from the engine. took me about an afternoon and i have never worked on a bmw before. You need the torx head sockets. Take the head off get it checked by an engine shop. At this point i highly reccomend you get your valve seated and the head surfaced a small amount to make things like new again. You will obviously need a full HG set which is about $190 for all gaskets and New Head bolts should be about another $80 to $120 depending on where you get them from. Exhaust manifold can be removed while the head is still in the car. I left my inlet manifold on as the bolts looked a bitch to get to. Bear in mind now is also the perfect time to have that exhaust manifold checked for striaghtness ( mine was warped enough to leak ) and its also a good time to change cambelt/waterpump/tension bearing. For me it wasn't too hard it just cost a fair bit . You would probally want to have a good look at a Haynes or Bently manual before doing this job too. If you wish to dissassemble the head yourslef you might need a particualr size valve spring compressor. the one i had didn't fit. And when it comes to removing the Rocker shafts take your time and think about it before you go nuts with a hammer and a dowl ( remove your rocker cover if you don't know what i mean ) Well hope this helps, at least its what i found out. Good luck.

+1 on the DMR i bought a switchback frame and built it up, best thing i ever did as far as fun on two wheels.

What would you write on your rego form where it asks for a base color ?