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Everything posted by tibbs.james
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Brand New clutch kit,Brand New Slave Cylinder and Brand new master. The clutch felt great as it always did since i had the car going. Then all of a sudden nothing.
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it wasn't a re kitted one though, Brand new in the plastic wrapper it was....
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Bedding in new rotors and Pads
tibbs.james replied to tibbs.james's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering
Good info thanks guys ! I have just been moderate on mine and after a decent bleed they are now perfect ! Going to wait 500kms before i give them a good hot run to see how they go ! -
GRRRRRRR I am really angry as i was driving through town today coming home from CPIT in Chch, went round a corner changed into 3rd gear then the clutch pedal fell right to the floor and tons of smoke poured out from the engine. Turns out my master cylinder is pumping fluid back through the system back up to the fluid resivour and past the seal on the lid. Limped my car to Import Part Specialists ( My dad is good mates with the owner ) and we had it on the hoist and attempted to bleed the clutch it just pumped air bubble after air bubble with very little fluid. So master Cylinder has to come out so i can take it back and get a new one. I have my old one so at least i can prove that it failed as the fluid comes out the wrong end........... I know it has failed but can somebody tell me why ? I am not Noob and was very carefully installing all new parts in the clutch system I was not thrashing the car either. It was working so perfectly then all of a sudden nothing ! !
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Bedding in new rotors and Pads
tibbs.james replied to tibbs.james's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering
Well i Went for about an hours drive before no hard braking just driving and slowing down maybe a bit harder than normal and then whipped a wheel off, rotors had a nice surface going on them could only just see the hatching from the new rotors so that appears to be going well. and i popped into my mates place and we re bled my brakes a bit and it made a hell of diffierence. Pedal still feels a really tiny little bit soft but certainly its well withing "normal" now where before it used to be really "suck" Might have another go at bleeding next weekend and by them they should be nicely bed in. -
Bedding in new rotors and Pads
tibbs.james replied to tibbs.james's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering
that article sounds good, will see how it goes. Cheers -
Just done the 5 speed swap on my E30 Got a good Getrag 260 ect New shift mount bushings Shifter appears to be in good nick, however i did not see the bushing where it sits in the shifter mounting plate as i had my gearbox man put that togeather as i had no circlip pliers. Car drives fine and you can always get the right gear first time ect. But once in gear it just wobbles around a bit like it slops around a lot more than other cars i have driven. Could the problem be in the clips for the linkage rod. Might it be the wrong shifter used ? it just feels not so flash is all. Also while i am here what short shifter kits are avalible ? I remember seeing one on trademe a while back but i can't find the listing. any help appreciated.
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Hey Guys Just finished my E30 with my Auto To manual conversion and at the same time i replaced my front rotors and pads and bled the brakes with new fluid ect. Only they really suck and need bedding in. i have been told by a few people to do a few hard stops from 60kmh but not to stop completely ie 3 or 4 times and then to do the same from 100kmh a few times and then they should be working good. Is this the correct way to go about it ? the braking at the moment is totally useless so i need to do something soon.
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hey thanks guys i went to the auto sparky and got a switch that did the job perfectly so im all sorted now
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Hi Guys I Really need a brake light Pedal Switch for my FL 320i Must be in CHhch/Rangiora the old one stopped working and when i pulled it out it broke I need one this weekend or i can't drive my car Any help Appreciated Regards James
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Multimeter Spare Fuses Misc tools spanners pliers ect 3L of water Some rags ect.
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Awesome work getting this close I have seen your Car outside the Rangiora Exhaust shop for ages good to see its nearly ready. I most things BMW seem to be Bosch, do you have any way of comparing the noise of either pump ? Or perhaps one is easier to mount up than the other which might be a reason for using it .
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Timing Light gun to see if timing is right ?
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well im forging ahead as per pics show. All ineed to do now is get the flexible part of the clutch line and get my hard line bent into the right shape so i can fit it all. I was advised by Pete At Eurorec to just cut down the old Auto brake pedal and not to change the whole pedal box but it has ended up with a height diffierence between the pedals. Perhaps i might buy some ACS pedals to cover that up. either way it wont really make a diffierence as the auto and manual brake pedals have the same offset on the right hand side anyway. I even had some time to fit my spiffy new pads and rotors can't wait to go for a good lap round the Port Hills
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A mate at work had an AE86, had koni shocks and king springs and some nice headers on it, And hell it went bloody well !!! very fun car to drive. Only he had problems with rust appearing out of nowhere. But hell yeah Old Skool Jap FTW Makes my Z31 look like a massive old Boat
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thats the one man it looks so hot, and like i said enough people are missing their factory Facelift Front lips even those would sell i would think
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An IS front lip is a must ! or atleast something similar and if either of those are not possible a replacement front lip for a FL car.
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haha I painted my inlet Manifold Black so if painted my rocker cover red it would be like the Canterybury Crusaders in my engine bay ! Yeah Heat paitn works really well I used Dupli Colour Part Cermamic Paint i think its rater to like 500 deg and it bakes itselft one once the engine is warmed up
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looks nice in white very clean car ! I would do Manual gearbox, lowered and the 16" wheels you mention ! I wish i had a white E30 mine is diamond swartz and it looks so dirty all the time because i live on a shingle road. Rural Area's FTL Awesome Car you will love it so much compared to heaps of other cars
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...sideways E30 with your 304 cam i would suggeest your goal is to get more air and fuel into the engine right ? So if you do not somehow arrange for more air and more fuel your mixtures could be all over the show not to mention engine running not so well. More air and fuel generally needs a way to control it, ie ecu & fueling mods would M20B25 injectors even flow enough for 250 hp ? without a severe raise in fuel pressure ? and doing the necessary fueling mods might even be very much required if you wish to get anywhere near your 250 hp goal even then i would say you would be talking BHP no WHP
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cut n polish ?
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any twin turbo available for e46 coupe
tibbs.james replied to basildogz's topic in Forced Induction & Performance Tuning
You can gauge an idea of what is really involved by looking at what is included in a 350Z turbo kit. Usually you need Turbo,manifolds,intercooler,piping,brackets for various things that need to be moved,high flow fuel pump,bigger injectrors, chip for ecu or piggy back computer to control it all.Of course the turbo/and wastegate and to make sure the exhaust is big enough to allow decent flow. and all that is just for a stock engine where you may only be able to run 10psi of boost anyway. depending on compression. at this stage it is also likely something will fail sooner than usuall unless extra care is taken with regards to maintenance and proper service work. This is perhaps why supercharger kits for BM's seem popular due to the fact that a supercharger simply does not need so much extra equipement added. things like intercoolers and replaceing exhaust components may not be required. But either way a custom job $$$$$$$ and a decent kit is $$$$$$$$$ THen you bring me to the exact reason that makes me think Drifty 340i is onto a winner with his v8 swap. Cheap Easy reliable horsepower.( while recogising the huge work that has gone into it) -
i never thought iof unbolting the engine mounts, but my engine hoist was at a mates place lifting a subi engine so it would have been 6 and 1 or half a dozen of the other. So how exactly do you swap the bearing hanger over ? just undo the circluip then stick a gear puller on the back of it and pull it off i assume ?
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Yeah thats what i figured at least the driveshaft is the correct length and splines fit in nicely ect. but the bolt holes are about 5mm out on each side. but as the bearing itself appeears to be the same im sure enough it can be swapped over. If worst comes to worse i can have a plate welded over it and have the solts re drilled. But my two drive shafts are going to my engineering dude tomorow. Its such a pain how they had to chnage it. Long wobbly extensions suck, but thank god for the torx bolts i think had they been normal bolts they would have easily striped with the mental long extension. My hose for my master clinder resivour is a bit old and nasty so what type of hose should i replace it with. ie brake/clutch fluid being highly corrosive
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Yes i was about 70% into removing the auto when i decided i would never do it this way again. But as far as putting the manual gearbox back in due to the increased space it was a piece of cake. I am hoping to buy my Girlfiend and E30 with a stuffed engine or gearbox so your method will be the go next time. What you said above was exactly how i removed engine and tranny with my 300zx