rogan

I think that's just a general wiring diagram. I can't see where the amp says it's 2 ohm stable bridged, nor do I know of any Pioneer 2 or 4 channel amp that has been in the past.

That amp is only stable at 4ohms bridged so DVC4 won't work that well

Email this fella: jeremysp005@hotmail.com or txt O21O761465 He was selling 3 Boston amps on nzicemag in the last week but think he sold the GT40 for about $180. See what he's got left

didn't read the d4 bit. So bear in mind with d4 you're limited to 2ohm mono amps or Boston Acoustics 2 channel amps (there were some 2nd hand ones for sale on nzicemag just recently. If you get D2 instead then you can use any 1ohm stable mono or any 2 channel amp Side note: you can series a d4 to 8ohms but means you don't use the potential of the 2 channel amp.

That kind of price is hard to beat

Front footwells are generally regarded as a better place than doors, longer path lengths to ears and they tend to be more sealed. Only thing you really need to do with footwell factory mounts is try and seal any holes in the metal around the speaker so you isolate the front of the speaker from the back. e30Andy, the driver side e30 mounts are hopeless. there's wires running through the mounts so BMW recessed about 60 degrees of the mounting lip to run the wires. down side is there's no isolation of front of speaker to back. The panels behind are small and have plenty of joins so no real need to deaden them.

eds autos in Mt Roskill are the looms and faceplate suppliers to most cat audio shops so try them. Online catalogue http://www.edsauto.co.nz/images/PDF_Catalogue/BMW.pdf Please don't cut and solder. Adapter looms are reasonably priced and make it an easy and tidy install. One issue might be the factory amp. It's in the boot and has internal crossovers so you'll need to search around on how to tie an aftermarket h/u into the factory amp.

By installing the fronts properly I'm referring to doing some work on the enclosure that they play in. Presume the e34 has them in the front doors in which case you want to deaden the outer door panel and try to better seal the door cavity from the cabin (the door cards don't do a great job). This is where you get significant gains in the all important midbass. Without doing this, there's no point going mad on front speakers and amplifiers beacuse any gains you get will be limited by the enclosure. I installed some high end components in an Alfa once. Due to time restrictions I had to do it in stages. First stage was just get them in and get them going. Slight improvement but not worth the $. Then I amped them; again an improvement but no where near worth the cash. Then I set about building some baffles and sealing off the door cavity. Enormous improvement. Ages back in my wifes e30, we stuck a new headunit, 5.25 components up front in factory mounts and 5.25 coaxials in the parcel shelf, all run off the headunit. Added a 10" sub with a 2x75rms amp bridged and it rocked. As a daily driver with the ability to go reasonably loud it went well. Yes there was a huge hole in the lower midbass but you could disguise it with the sub bass.

What do you want out of this system. One option is to run the fronts off the h/u; for 90% of people this is sufficient. I don't see much point in amping the fronts unless you're going to spend time and money installing the speakers properly

They're not my cup of tea and I've done no real research into them. Pauls Audio in Chch are the Atomic Audio NZ distributors. Atomic Audio made a big impact in international SPL comps about 5 yrs ago but they seemed to chew through subwoofers at an alarming rate. And DD have been in the top SPL comps for the last 10 years or more. Argue and debate all the specs you like but they are competition proven models. What you guys seem to be missing is the power is used for burping. 3p, agree that efficiency is more useful than power input.

Not mine but someone I know (and no I'm not getting asnything for this link) Atomic 5000rms amp - that's true watts not sony / earthquake / boss stuff. DD 18" monster subwoofer. One of the few subs that could handle the huge power. I've bought stuff off the guy before and he treats his gear well and he won't rip you off. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Members/Listings....?member=2045888 Perfect gear for anyone wanting to go deaf. If tinitis isn't your thing, that McIntosh amp is very well regarded for SQ

Just connect up the earth, ignition, and battery leads. Your headunit shoulkd now power up. If it doesn't then either it's out to lunch or you've gopt fuse/harness problems. Once those three are hooked up and unit is working, then start wiring the rest To be quite brutal, if this is as far as your diagnositc ability goes then take it to someone who knows what they're doing. No point blowing up something and being back at square one with a bigger job at hand.

Some pics here http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showt...droid-head-unit

Parrot Asteroid Smart? Pricey over here, best to buy overseas US$599

They're a bit cheaper to import direct from US, but yeah it's still a decent cost on a old car. For just an amp & sub, it's pretty easy to hook up to factory. step by step guides with pics E39 with DSP E39 without DSP

Or rip the monitor out and fit a tablet into the frame.

Dynavin and some other Chinese units are the only one that plug and play. Heaps of threads on bimmerforums re these units. For a single din aftermarket unit, look at edsauto.co.nz for wiring harnesses and fascia

In all honesty you're never going to get great sound out of 4" drivers so don't go spending big $$. I had some 4" Bostons in a Mitsi galant about 20+ years ago and they were ok but lacked midbass which is hardly surprising considering the cone size. I agree with Neal. Go looking for 4x6 and components if possible

I've owned 2 classics ( V8 and a 200tdi diesel). Both were fantastic cars. The v8 was massively set up for off roading, about the only thing it lacked was diff locks. And I now own a P38 as a spare. They look much better with a bit of lift but you also need bigger tyres to fill the wheel arches or they look a bit wrong. It gets tricky climbing in when they're lifted and the factory (and some aftermarket) sidesteps don't go that well with offroading. Somethings to consider. Choose your towbar well. The factory one sits on a big plate hanging down the back *edit* I just saw the pics and you've got the big plate already there. Go off road with it and you'll get hung up on the bracket quite often; try and minimise the towbar drop and you end up with a very high tow ball. Removal of the front air dam is essential for off roading - I took mine off then refitted it with wingnuts. That way it was only a 5min job to remove when I wanted to take it out and get muddy. One big issue is the factory tow points - they are rubbish. If you are going to get stuck off road then have a good look into fabbing up something decent. Exhaust pipe can be an issue and I've seen a few ripped off when reversing off road. Think about putting a 90 on the back and piping out the side behind the rear wheel - also note that there aren't many cars that sound better than a RR v8 with a rumbly exhaust. Always get windscreen insurance. The rear window costs a fortune to fix (used to be about $2k for a non rusty one) For spare parts and off road accessories, speak to Brett at Top of the Range in Albany, Ak. (09)4158148 from memory. They are RR specialists and have access to a heap of parts and are always wrecking classics, discos etc. Other people is Morris from Stag 4x4 out West Auckland. There's also Landrover spares in West Ak but I always found them expensive compared to TOTR & stag. I believe there's a place in Penrose (can't remember the name but something like Landie Spares), and there's RJR Spares up in Warkworth.

Exactly. Try with all unplugged.

Is that low resistance between rca shield and headunit chassis with any of the RCAs plugged in or all of them unplugged?

That's OTT and bogan. All -ve RCA outs are daisy chained inside the headie so you only need to earth one of them and doesn't matter which. Just slip a thin and small length of wire inside on of the RCAs you're using (making sure it doesn't touch the inner pin which is the +ve) and earth that as a test. If the noises go away then you can either send it off to be fixed (Pioneer techs replace the fuse with straight wire) or you just get a cheap RCA cable and butcher the end off to make a RCA -ve to earth cable. Note this has to be at the headunit, not at the amplifier. I don't suspect the RCA cables from headie to amp. With a Pioneer headunit, the first place to start is the fusible link. Then follow Neal's troubleshoot.

Pop headunit out and run a wire from the outisde sheath of one of the rca outputs to the headunit earth. In pioneer headunits theres a fusible link (otherwise known as the pico fuse) on the rca earth track inside the headunit. Common pioneer issue and symptoms are alternator whine, on/off thump, and cd tracking noise.

I'd say both are at fault. Car A is allowed to do a U-turn "as long as it is safe to do so". Although this doesn't say the U turning driver has to give way to car B, it implies a duty of care.

I feel your pain. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=483516320