rogan

what part of NZ are you in?

Do they teach English at school nowadays?

what about just a simple bluetooth earpiece with mic.

If only the NZ dollar stays strong for a wee while longer

I would disconnect the h/u electric aerial wire. Just in case there's an issue feeding 12v into that wire when playing sources other than the radio.

If you play FM radio do the front speakers work? If yes then you need to swap the remote-on and electric aerial wires coming out of the headunit.

Exactly. Both of you have just proved my point, thanks. $107k for a track car that has leather, heated seats, air conditioning, sat nav, radio etc etc and according to TG is marginally quicker than a M3. So now you need to justify why the 1M is worth $70k more than the Fraser, without using the money is no object argument because that would preclude buying a 1M in the first place.

One huge problem though. Anyone who drives one is going to be a complete plonker. Can any of the performance, handling bladda bladda bladda be used on NZ roads? No, so why buy it over a standard 1 series. Aesthetically it looks cr@p so there's no poser benefit to it. At the end of the day it's a 1 series with an M badge that's going to pedal round 99.99% of the time under the speed limit. So the only people who will drive one will be the boring car geeks who sit in rush hour traffic, with their gloved hands resting on the gearstick telling themselves how great it feels to be sitting in the ultimate (factory) driving machine . Buy yourself a Suzuki Swift and a Fraser 7 and save yourself $60k.

Tried googling for some more pics but not finding any. Found this instead

What's the price on the android vs the standard e46 dynavin. And will you ever be having a sale?

Went to the Eye Institute in Parnell the other week. There's an AM Vantage in the car park, but it's completely overshadowed by the Maserati GT that also lives there. BTT, that AM Zagato loks like an AM that's mated with a Lambo Miura. Not good

Read this http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showt...d.php?t=1599281 Speak to Ray at HellBM about the climate control relocation in case he has one http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=10946 He's up in Silverdale and is excellent to deal with.

http://www.bavariansoundwerks.com/category...0/bmw+subwoofer Go to the appropriate e46 page (coupe / sedan year etc). Click the install info tab down the bottom and you'll get step by step instructions with photos of what you need to do.

Sound deadening works well on flat panels. Alot of people (me included) get completely carried away with sound deadening and start covering every visible surface with the stuff even though it will make minimal impact. Track down what is rattling and see if you can isolate the rattling with stuff like stick on foam rubber tape. Check number plate for rattles. Double side foam rubber tape will quickly sort that out.

e46 passenger side, sidelight bulb has blown. Plug unclips and comes off. Bulb holder turns about 45 degrees (anticlockwise IIRC). The bulb holder feels loose but won't come out as it seems to be fouled on one side. Is this a brute force and ignorance job or is there something I'm not doing

Not sure I like the exposed power and earth wiring just by the amp. They're a bitch to get tidy on the Boston amps because some sheaths just don't fit into the hole. Suggest a small length of cheap heatshrink just to cover the exposed wire entering the terminal housing. Otherwise glad you're happy, looks like a top result. PS. that vid was cr@p

looking good

Correct, most damage to subs comes from underpowering, that's when the user doesn't know how to set gains and ends up cranking the amp too much. Signal to sub is 'clipped' which causes sub to overheat. Having excess power means you won't tend to get into clipping unless you simply decide to thrash the living bejesus out of the sub. Also remember that music is dynamic so your sub is only seeing max power for a fraction of the time. Quite common for subs to be able to handle excessive power when playing music. It's only when you start doing things like playing test tones that you have to be careful with the limits. I reckon the power you have is a good amount for the sub you've got.

No problem. Pioneer covering their ass. Headroom (ie amp more powerful than speaker) is pretty widely regarded as being a good thing.

You need to loosely fill to 2/3 volume to get a 10-15% increase but it's guess work how much you put in. Throw the sub in as is, see what it sounds like. If it lacks bottom end then throw some dacron in , if not leave it as is.

Will have minimal effect. Yes you may lose some bottom end but most likely it wouldn't be noticeable. Easiest way to get around this is to loosely add dacron fill into the enclosure, fools the sub into thinking there's ~10-15% more volume. You get dacron from places like Spotlight, it's pillow stuffing. Just make sure the back of your sub has free air space behind it cos the voice coils can get quite warm and you need airspace for the heat to dissipate.

Rings eds autos, tell them what car and what headunit. They will send you the correct adapter. Sounds to me like you've somehow hooked power into the illumination wire. http://www.edsauto.co.nz/

does an espace count, i could stick an rs sticker on the back? would be quite enjoyable/scary thrashing it around the track. not sure wifey would approve tho

That was an absolute bargain. 8ga is good but if multiple amps are going to be used then go 4ga to futureproof

with your engine on, your electrical system is around 14.4v. Turn the engine off and it drops back to your battery power which is around 12.6v