rogan

God has spoken. I stand corrected. Do I need to self-flagellate for my penance?

Each to their own but to me it seems a bit silly to bite the bullet on the soon to be superceeded Dynavin when the new model is a matter of months away. They're not cheap so why not hold out for the new model since OBC is important to you. Be interesting to know whether the frst batch of the new Dynavin will be software upgradable to control OBC once the second batch is released. One option that people did with the aftermarkets systems was to move the MID into the glove box, but that was with the separate MID systems and don't know if that's at all feasible with the board monitor system. AFAIK, front speakers are single voice coil. Not sure you'd want to feed different signals into a DVC speaker, sounds like a recipe for disaster.

It's going to seem like a stupid question, but I have to ask. What's the cost of replacement windscreen wiper blades? Renault parts seem stupidly expensive over here.

A thread to watch http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showt...d.php?t=1525768 Jeff gives pretty honest reviews of the units so will be interesting to see what his take on the new unit is.

Following link gives you a good step by step guide: http://www.bavariansoundwerks.com/product-...tem_Non_DSP.pdf One option might be a Pioneer shallow mount sub. No idea what they are like but the required box seems pretty small: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-stereo...n-400483950.htm

what part of NZ are you in?

Do they teach English at school nowadays?

what about just a simple bluetooth earpiece with mic.

If only the NZ dollar stays strong for a wee while longer

I would disconnect the h/u electric aerial wire. Just in case there's an issue feeding 12v into that wire when playing sources other than the radio.

If you play FM radio do the front speakers work? If yes then you need to swap the remote-on and electric aerial wires coming out of the headunit.

Exactly. Both of you have just proved my point, thanks. $107k for a track car that has leather, heated seats, air conditioning, sat nav, radio etc etc and according to TG is marginally quicker than a M3. So now you need to justify why the 1M is worth $70k more than the Fraser, without using the money is no object argument because that would preclude buying a 1M in the first place.

One huge problem though. Anyone who drives one is going to be a complete plonker. Can any of the performance, handling bladda bladda bladda be used on NZ roads? No, so why buy it over a standard 1 series. Aesthetically it looks cr@p so there's no poser benefit to it. At the end of the day it's a 1 series with an M badge that's going to pedal round 99.99% of the time under the speed limit. So the only people who will drive one will be the boring car geeks who sit in rush hour traffic, with their gloved hands resting on the gearstick telling themselves how great it feels to be sitting in the ultimate (factory) driving machine . Buy yourself a Suzuki Swift and a Fraser 7 and save yourself $60k.

Tried googling for some more pics but not finding any. Found this instead

What's the price on the android vs the standard e46 dynavin. And will you ever be having a sale?

Went to the Eye Institute in Parnell the other week. There's an AM Vantage in the car park, but it's completely overshadowed by the Maserati GT that also lives there. BTT, that AM Zagato loks like an AM that's mated with a Lambo Miura. Not good

Read this http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showt...d.php?t=1599281 Speak to Ray at HellBM about the climate control relocation in case he has one http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=10946 He's up in Silverdale and is excellent to deal with.

http://www.bavariansoundwerks.com/category...0/bmw+subwoofer Go to the appropriate e46 page (coupe / sedan year etc). Click the install info tab down the bottom and you'll get step by step instructions with photos of what you need to do.

Sound deadening works well on flat panels. Alot of people (me included) get completely carried away with sound deadening and start covering every visible surface with the stuff even though it will make minimal impact. Track down what is rattling and see if you can isolate the rattling with stuff like stick on foam rubber tape. Check number plate for rattles. Double side foam rubber tape will quickly sort that out.

e46 passenger side, sidelight bulb has blown. Plug unclips and comes off. Bulb holder turns about 45 degrees (anticlockwise IIRC). The bulb holder feels loose but won't come out as it seems to be fouled on one side. Is this a brute force and ignorance job or is there something I'm not doing

Not sure I like the exposed power and earth wiring just by the amp. They're a bitch to get tidy on the Boston amps because some sheaths just don't fit into the hole. Suggest a small length of cheap heatshrink just to cover the exposed wire entering the terminal housing. Otherwise glad you're happy, looks like a top result. PS. that vid was cr@p

looking good

Correct, most damage to subs comes from underpowering, that's when the user doesn't know how to set gains and ends up cranking the amp too much. Signal to sub is 'clipped' which causes sub to overheat. Having excess power means you won't tend to get into clipping unless you simply decide to thrash the living bejesus out of the sub. Also remember that music is dynamic so your sub is only seeing max power for a fraction of the time. Quite common for subs to be able to handle excessive power when playing music. It's only when you start doing things like playing test tones that you have to be careful with the limits. I reckon the power you have is a good amount for the sub you've got.

No problem. Pioneer covering their ass. Headroom (ie amp more powerful than speaker) is pretty widely regarded as being a good thing.

You need to loosely fill to 2/3 volume to get a 10-15% increase but it's guess work how much you put in. Throw the sub in as is, see what it sounds like. If it lacks bottom end then throw some dacron in , if not leave it as is.