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that link seems to be full of bull.. but i may be wrong. static pressure drop is a measure of intercooler efficiency. the cooler the air, the lower the pressure? or do the laws of thermodynamics not apply here? this is why you run your wastegate reference line from the intake manifold.. dont you? also, with a turbo putting out 300hp worth of air, the extra couple of litres to fill the intercooler is like 0.1 sec lag or less.. i have driven in a honda city turbo with a 600x300x100 in tercooler an d lag was not noticeably higher than stock mind you that car had no exhaust off the back of the turbo, so it dispelled a lot of myths for me (backpressure etc)

http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/m...-part3-nova.htm scroll down to where they have the wiring diagram with the photo of the relay board they are simply that easy to wire up. and if you buy preassembled and tested, there are few issues. no more than link i am guessing. (my limited experience with link notwithstanding) and they can do sequential spark and fuel. depends which version you get.

yeah was just pullin ya tit. hey was wondering if i could chat with you via pm or phone regarding my gf's car. the turbo she has currently just doesnt cut it. (she has a mitsi tc06 turbo)

holy sh*t!!!! 100,000hp!!!!thats like 40,000 per litre! i look forward to seeing it!

why b20, vs b25? interesting choice.for me i would choose s50b32

holy mary mother of jesus this is easily the third most f**king awesome thing i have ever seen. after the birth of my baby and the first time i saw minge in real life. if i actually got to see this in real life it would be second. so correct me if i am wrong, but you are keepingthe dsc, asc, and all those other acronyms from the e46?

stock bottle caps with 195/60/14

you can pick up a used b25 very cheap. shouldnt be hard to fit, you only need motor and ecu afaik.then i would say a set of extractors, and some sort of chip will have you smiling.

so my speedo i reading a bit high. when it says 60kmh i am doing 48.. when it says 110, i get passed by trucks. and it feels like i am going very slow. however with the tolerance being put down to 5kmh for the holiday weekend, i didnt want to risk going much faster. its a bloody pain having no idea what speed your doing. it only seems accurate to within about 10-20kmh. car is a 1988 320i(pre facelift) with a 3.91 diff. not sure what gearbox is in it, but would guess getrag 240? so whats the deal?

i thought that the two bore stroke combinations were 86borex92stroke and 93.4x84 if its 92x84 thats fine for me. so i will probably just put in the engine, leave it totally stock, and then once other things like suspension and brakes are sorted, look at some power upgrades. i want to have the engine in before i start looking at susension, as there is not much point tuning the suspension for a certain weight then changing it. no i will not be turbo'ing it.. would be a great car then, but as a street driven car i am sure 340nm/1100kg will be enough fun as it is

okay the plan has been set in motion.. i have decided on an m30. cheap as sh*t, tough as sh*t, and powerful. i will be spending the money i save over doing a more expensive swap on suspension and brakes. so.. some questions: 1) do the m30b35's we get in new zealand have the 93.4 bore/84 stroke or did we get the longer stroke smaller bore models? 2)if the above is true, is it possible to put in a longer stroke crank and get 3.78 litres out of it, and 11:1 cr, or am i high and that will just shove the pistons up through the head? 3)does anyone know what the intake port sizes are? i have access to several motorbike engines and was thinking about making some itb's (only once the engine is already in and running) 4)before the motor goes in it will be getting a light rebuild, rings, bearings, mild porting, gaskets, and probably a cam. does anyone know the head gasket thickness? my goal is 250hp at the motor. with a aftermarket ecu, cam, porting, possibly itb's, decent set of tuned headers, and definitely a short runner intake if not itb, will i get this figure? given that the engine should make 218hp stock. i decided on it for cost, torque(to which i have a serious addiction), and the fact that the engine is very unstressed at about 60hp/l, which leaves much scope for more. as far as the weight, doing it this way will leave far more in the budget for suspension and brakes, to the point where this engine will probably actually allow me to have a much better handling car. epic build thread coming soon. gotta get paint sorted first though its a bit of a cop magnet.

the coiovers available on trademe... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-291145100.htm are they any good? o just wank factor.. i just want car to handle well, not be a super special multi adjustable piece of crap..

yeah see this is what i was looking for.. thanks guys.. possibly m20b25 turbo then? could it be done properly on a cheapish budget? (3k?)

very much lol mad drifts y0!

yeah its just a road car. possibly a thrash around the track once or twice a year. right now, i am able to get a m20b25 in the car for under $300, which is looking more and more like what i am going to do and just stick with that till i can get an m50 and spend some real money on it. engine = $250, mate said he would throw it in for $50 and a box. but that doesnt really make it a fast car. just a moderatly quick one. my total budget is about 3k, there are m50 engines available for $1000, so is this reasonable, or am i better turboing the m20?

okay.. i am the fool who bought the burgundy e39 with horrific paint off trademe a few weekends ago. obviously, the m20b20 is not going to cut it. what i wanna know is, what is the best engine swap for an e30 IN NEW ZEALAND? i mean obviously, a lot of the sites are american or euro, so prices for engines, and parts are different. over there, the best and most economically sound swap is s50. over here, thats a 15k engine. so what is the best swap to do? m20b25? doesnt give me enough power really, but is cheap and cheerful m30b35? affects handling, but lots of power and tq. m50b25? is it a hassle with the rhd steering column getting in the way of exhaust? m52b28? as with m50, as well as is it a more expensive engine?, obd2 wiring not an issue, have heard they are harder to get power out of? is the extra .3l really worth it? what about something japanese? sr20? 4g63 with starion gearbox? ( i have a spare box, and engines are cheap as, but i see them as a bit of a brute compared with the silky smooth bmw 6) i really dont want a turbo though. would like about 220hp or so. my car doesnt have ac, power windows, or powered sunroof, and being a 2dr is pretty light so that should be plenty. i will probably be megasquirting the car, regardless of what engine i put in, i have just got myself a ms3, and the car was pretty much bought to have something to put that in. much like with rb engines being the swap of choice into cefiro's laurels etc, what is the best swap for my e30?

wow. thats darwin right there folks. and yeah. i doubt the safest volvo on earth would have protected it occupants at a combined impact speed of what i am guess is around 350kph.. (would have probably just kept the body parts together for easier re-assembly and identification)

i just put a ms2 v3.57 onto a starion. was easy to set up, tune, and when we booked it into the dyno to get a final checkup tune, the guy said it didnt really need any tuning. had 2 knock sensors, wideband, and egt sensors. which helped a lot.

147000 for the base model? maybe 347000, but definitely not 147. if a fully specced commodore costs 100k, that is certainly not going to only be 50k more edit: on the audi site they say $260,000. which is a fricken bargain for what it is. although porsche do a 911 for the same money that is, in my completely uninformed, and based purely off hearsay and internet nerds, opinion, a far better car.

says it all

and of course now they are thinking about introducing PURE oxygen injection to create more horsepower... nuts.

well he seems willing to make up the difference in value with some cash, and hell, the motor (if it is a proper 400 block not some overstroked catastrophe) is probably worth most of $3k. 400 blocks are very very hard to find. also there is an easy 450hp or maybe more out of that motor, and it weighs not much more than the 3.2l six that was in there before.

i just realised that that car is technically a bmw 666cs now (no i its not injected) i am quite seriously considering swapping my commodore for it, the guy seems quite keen, and i want a more sporty car.

hmmm.... with some decent suspension, a manual box, and a bit of work tha would be such a sweet car. there was a 635csi for sale for ages up here for i think it was 6k pretty tidy too

just sent him an email: