e30ftw

Thats your opinion and fair enough. I was still scraping the pan down in the first place so it kind of makes sense to address the whole thing.

300mm +/- 5%. Sitting only a few mm down, not even 296mm. Well within the 5%.

It is legal, I'm well within my certified limits, still sits to what it was certified for. Nothing wrong with making things fit better.

Onions save the day

We all ran our own wiring to battery / igniton and used a relay.

They don't fit under an m50 oil pan, the oil pans stick down roughly 20mm lower than an m20 one. I have extended the arms and modified a sump guard to fit under, but as said with minimal clearance whats the point it's only gonna create sparks and bang along the road. I've got it off, only has a small fracture where circled above. $60 to have it welded. But going to talk to someone soon who may be able to cut it higher, weld a flat piece of aluminium and have the sump sitting higher. + gonna have raised engine mounts to.

Nah I need to get the old one off see what I can do first. Should have it off tomorrow morning then I'll see.. Need a new engine mount too cos I notice one is ripped. Would explain the jerk i got changing gears for the past week or so. Sump isn't tooooo bad anyways.Crack starting up top running down the side into that valley to the bottem corner. I'm gonna see if I can have the crack welded and have it raised abit. Would probably end up costing the same as a replacement sump but would be more worthwhile as it's less likely to break again if its made higher vs getting another . Got a single engine mount i can buy? Forgot what ones you gave me too..

Obviously someone fooled him into being 4wd and all haha.

Im certed at 300mm front, It was sitting close to 295mm, which is still within my 5% +/- .

Thats what I did. Isn't that much of a problem though having deadlocks was good thing security wise, also the petrol flap remains vulnerable..

Yep you can do that if you know the colour code, or just bring in the fuel flap as suggested.

+100 to fix your exhaust. Better than getting the most pointless 25 demerits you could get.

Most paint shops should be able to colour match and throw some in a can for about $35.

Go on e30tech. Guys over there running reliable setups stock everything except headstuds and run a reliable 14psi+, or even o-ring + ARP headstuds and run 1bar or more of boost and the motors are easily capable of it.

I usually manually do it from the slave end, Open bleed screw, push rod in, close screw, let rod out. Keep going til it's a solid stream. Takes about a minute and it bleeds it pretty good. But if that as far as the pedal will come out of the master, then either you may have the wrong pedal or the wrong master cylinder maybe? Cos there is a rod that joins to the piston and there is just a backing plate that stops the clutch pedal rod from pulling the piston out of the master (in other words, "as far as it will come out before the piston pops out")

Form > Function.

It was dark and I was turning down a street and didn't notice it was one of those stupid dips then a concrete bit with bricks. Just went BANG and I didn't even notice it had broke, I drove it home and this morning the garage floor was flooded in oil. If I was driving on a road where if I followed the usual path and drove where the road had sort of worn out where cars usually drive and the middle bit is higher it'd scrape at the sump so I had to drive either more left or closer to the center line haha. I'm gonna space the m50 upwards and see if I can get the pan lifted higher and the pickup. if anything all i will lose is abit of oil capacity but wipdy doo. I modified an e30 sumpguard to fit under the m50 sump too just last week but never got around to installing it.

So I wound my car down abit a couple of weeks ago to lose abit of the guard / tyre gap. (they are 205/40/16 tyres so its hard to make it fill the guard gap, if they were bottlecaps with 195/60's it tucks tyre) Which left the oil pan like this. Barely 50mm off the ground. Which last night , ended up like this. Nice big crack down the side. FML. Actually glad it didn't break to pieces like I had happen with 2 m20 oil pans. I may see if I can have it raised and the oil pickup raised abit since it sticks down 20mm lower than an m20 sump does and it's f*cken dodgy.

Lol difference is his engine is fully forged..

Man card deduction IMO.

They came on some of the earlier 4cylinder e30's from what I gather. http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71

Yeah it didn't last though it eventually threw a rod lol. How crazy do you wanna go? I'd talk to Crunchy he seems to be the man to talk to for this kinda stuff.

Pretty sure they wire in to existing wiring for the central locking.

I'd say 9", They look the exact same fitment as mine front and rear, unless the rear has more width on the other side but the front can't cos it'll be against the strut..

Your better of using the 325i 885 head. Flows alot more and lowers compression to 9.5:1. IIRC you have an early ETA block so you would have 11:1 CR with the 731 323i head. But people push stock motors 300-400hp easy.. Just some little things you need to consider to be on the safe side like o-ring the block or use a steel headgasket. ARP headstuds.. Go look on e30tech.com, tonnes of info and heaps of 2.7 turbo builds.. Dan Pinder I think his name is, dyno'd something like 460rwhp using a crappy ebay turbo and something like 27psi all on stock internals.