e30ftw

It's only lost 1L out of 7L capacity, The pickup has been shortened too obviously. But it's not exactly a race car it's more a cruise around DD so blehhh makes it more practical to drive now anyway.

BIG thanks to Matty104 for doing this.

I wondered were you got to with this. Still the same or made changes? I see the turbos different?

Saw you driving it today, looks good. Haven't seen it around in a long time

Haha. Goodluck with the sale man, not cool that your finally leaving e30 ownership!

Yeah it most likely will. The sensor will have 3 pins, 1 for power, 1 for low speed and other for high speed.

Nah not going there. My mates dad works at Weldwell in napier, hes hooked me up with a couple welder/fabricators to see that should be able to do it. But yeah crack will be welded, then will be raised to where you see the front of pan dip, which is in line with a line around the whole sump and goes just over the sump drain plug.

Yeah I am having it properlly tig welded, have been told $60 to tig the crack. Going to cost abit more to have the bottem cut, flat bit welded up abit higher but the only issue is figuring how to get around the drain plug and raising that or as matt suggested weld in some thicker alumnium to replace the cast so it's alot stronger but I would prefer it raised anyway.

No, Steering rack is way higher than the sump, the m50 sump pokes down another 20-30mm from the front subframe. Look at marks car he cracked a sump too and isn't as low as mine is.

Thats your opinion and fair enough. I was still scraping the pan down in the first place so it kind of makes sense to address the whole thing.

300mm +/- 5%. Sitting only a few mm down, not even 296mm. Well within the 5%.

It is legal, I'm well within my certified limits, still sits to what it was certified for. Nothing wrong with making things fit better.

Onions save the day

We all ran our own wiring to battery / igniton and used a relay.

They don't fit under an m50 oil pan, the oil pans stick down roughly 20mm lower than an m20 one. I have extended the arms and modified a sump guard to fit under, but as said with minimal clearance whats the point it's only gonna create sparks and bang along the road. I've got it off, only has a small fracture where circled above. $60 to have it welded. But going to talk to someone soon who may be able to cut it higher, weld a flat piece of aluminium and have the sump sitting higher. + gonna have raised engine mounts to.

Nah I need to get the old one off see what I can do first. Should have it off tomorrow morning then I'll see.. Need a new engine mount too cos I notice one is ripped. Would explain the jerk i got changing gears for the past week or so. Sump isn't tooooo bad anyways.Crack starting up top running down the side into that valley to the bottem corner. I'm gonna see if I can have the crack welded and have it raised abit. Would probably end up costing the same as a replacement sump but would be more worthwhile as it's less likely to break again if its made higher vs getting another . Got a single engine mount i can buy? Forgot what ones you gave me too..

Obviously someone fooled him into being 4wd and all haha.

Im certed at 300mm front, It was sitting close to 295mm, which is still within my 5% +/- .

Thats what I did. Isn't that much of a problem though having deadlocks was good thing security wise, also the petrol flap remains vulnerable..

Yep you can do that if you know the colour code, or just bring in the fuel flap as suggested.

+100 to fix your exhaust. Better than getting the most pointless 25 demerits you could get.

Most paint shops should be able to colour match and throw some in a can for about $35.

Go on e30tech. Guys over there running reliable setups stock everything except headstuds and run a reliable 14psi+, or even o-ring + ARP headstuds and run 1bar or more of boost and the motors are easily capable of it.

I usually manually do it from the slave end, Open bleed screw, push rod in, close screw, let rod out. Keep going til it's a solid stream. Takes about a minute and it bleeds it pretty good. But if that as far as the pedal will come out of the master, then either you may have the wrong pedal or the wrong master cylinder maybe? Cos there is a rod that joins to the piston and there is just a backing plate that stops the clutch pedal rod from pulling the piston out of the master (in other words, "as far as it will come out before the piston pops out")

Form > Function.