Etwenty1

I've been following a DIY on another site but its for the later model M62 ? with the vanos. A few differences...mine has head gaskets that run through the timing covers. Good potential there for trouble. I have a couple of weeks to work out the cam timing while parts arrive.

...have finished the teardown and keen for some advice - I found where a chunk of alloy in the pan came from - has broken off the lower timing cover. The main chain appeared quite loose with the trestle tool fitted and so did the drivers side chain between the cams. Now working out what to replace, the teeth on the crank sproket are very sharp (worn?) compared to the cam sprockets. The guides are in sound condition with very shallow chain tracks and no chipping or cracks. The OSV seems ok too. Am wondering if these have been replaced once already. Appears i have a stretched chain worn sprocket but guides are fine...? I am planning to keep this car so will be doing; new chain, sprockets, guides, waterpump, coolant pipes, intake gaskets, valley pan, o-rings along the way etc. Struggling to find clear info on the cam timing. To get the cam locks on i had to rotate the cams counterclockwise about 45 degrees. see before and after; Drivers side passenger side Is that normal? The slotted sprocket holes allow for some adjustment but i would be good to know the factory setting ?

Not sure whether this is an e34 manual or if the 7 series would be better the E38 Bentley manual.

you can get a plasticiser added to the paint to deal with that. Black boot spoilers are so PFL

colour matched rear spoiler, black bumper strips IMHO

count me IN

ill take em if not gone

Ive got a couple of lip options. spare IS lip made by a member on here, ordered it, unpacked it then found a tech 2 kit so its unmarked. Also have the OEM facelift lower lip of my '88 e30. PM if interested. Items are in Tauranga.

bought a 2000 540i genuine msport off TM for my sister late last year for $5k. Not seeing the "bargain"

ha ha no sorry the title meant a manual box from an '86 e30 into an'88. It meant the CSB and pilot bearing were different. Its a getrag 240, 1st is pretty short and in 5th it sits just over 2000 rpm so really driveable in top gear. I definately recommed the manual conversion, the car is so much more alive and tactile, somehow you can feel the driveline working but in that precise bmw way. blah blah blah. I decided to convert this one because it had the msport suspension and the LSD already.

they were for sale in auckland some guy had them on his honda, painted matt black... two needed professional straightening and they have been blasted and painted with a 2 pak system. Not polished on the lip like the originals but the cost to do that was just too much. They are the original item though, not reps.

pretty sure you guys are taking the piss but here you go, my e30 curtain clips to twp little recessed niches in the roof lining stows away nicely

pretty sure they will look just fine

E30? - Mine was the O-rings where the hard lines join - they go square with age. I just got new ones from the dealer or repco. Also the hard lines that pass through the fire wall seem to get pitted which can lead to a leak. Take the unit out and check. I think I have a spare valve if you need one.

ha ha wont wash off the driveway you mean....

Rear wheels tested evenly using the above method. Replaced both cylinders, bled brakes and WOF passed.

cheers for that Jason, yeah personally not keen on the GDI's but it suits the driver. I guess by tightening up you mean turning the wheels by hand....

Thanks, Is this valve serviceable? how can you determine if it is working properly?

Bump

Edit - have decided to replace cylinders....

Trying to sort out the old mans RVR for a WOF repair, its been on the brake rollers at VTNZ and has failed with an imbalance from the right to the left rear drum brakes. I fitted new shoes and scuffed up the drums because they appeared very glazed/shiny. This has not fixed the imbalance. I considered the setting up of the shoes which i did slightly loose because these have the automatic adjusters on the shoes. Round 2 tonight, will be re-setting the shoes more snugly and bleeding the brakes this time. If this is unsuccessful it will be off to the shop. Any suggestions?

Yeah the blind is factory, nice tidy unit that retracts down into a recess. If anyone is interested in these weaves, they are for sale. PM me for details

Here is my red e30, its a UK spec SE, bilsteins, LSD, rear blind, have added tech 2 wheel, now manual with 15"weaves and the factory ms suspension lowered at the front with some m3 springs. to be fitted: 16"borbet type A's Tech 2 body kit Respray

That one in Napier has sold. IMHO Once you swap that motor to non-original your resale is going to be equal to the collection of parts rather than any collectable value. If you want to go fast - get a 540. If you decide to keep the Tech 1 I have some genuine BMW E30 msport springs that might give you a good compromise ride height. Being a heavy vert it should sit a bit lower still.

finally done tonight, just a couple of questions for the veterans 1 am looking at the throttle linkage where the accelerator cable attaches. I have some spare wings/tabs now the kick-down cable is gone. Whats the best way to tidy this up? grind them off? 2 It took a bit of adjustment to get the pedals at the right height, brake switch etc. My clutch pedal seems to have a notchy feel at the top. It returns back on the sping and stops next to the brake pedal - 9-10 inched off firewall but tap it and it will then return another inch or so to sit quote high. I have the eccentric bolt not the adjustable push rod arrangement. Whats this mean? master cylinder worn?