Etwenty1

emailed

remember if you go over $400NZD incl freight you will probably get hit with Customs charges and GST on the portion over. It also delays delivery by 3-4 days IME.

note powder coating wont stick very well to plastic type bog or filler, you will need to use a metal putty to fill any dings.

How did you diagnose? not just the belt slipping?

Dropped a rocker while reassembling a head and it broke. So now i need one urgently. Can anyone help out before i go to the dealer? Its a fl 325i but i think all m20 rockers are the same....

Wow thats oily, i would have replaced it, Did you get the reinstall right? The slotted holes allow some rotation so it clicks off at no throttle.you can hear it. Try to borrow an icv that definately works 100% and swap it to see if any diff, you can do same with afm. i think there is agood sticky for e30 idle probs....

have you considered those HD rocker arms from IEmotorsport? i see a post this week from a member with a broken rocker.

Some of that ingrained looking oil staining stays there, even after a skim. I'm waiting for parts to do mine ), paid $120 for a light skim at the engine reconditioners and $60 to replace the valve stem seals that i supplied. I find that carefully using a good quality scraper blade with some engine oil on the surface gets rid of any old gasket stuff then a scrub with a plastic scourer pad and some de-greaser works well on both the block and the head (plastic only not a metal pad). Take care with solvents as some may damage your value guide seals. Then clean it another 2-3 times with degreaser and paper towels till its clean and dry with no residue. Make sure your bolt holes in the block are clean and dry too - rolled up paper towels works then compressed air. Hope you have a helper to position the head. Mine has blown as a result of PO damaging the fire ring on the back cylinder, most likely from dropping the head on it.

clear

Did you get my PM? interested in rockers.

good condition please

What brand tyres please?

And lastly, there is an unused connector alongside the fuel rail at the thermostatic valve housing end, any ideas where it should/could go? I have my m20 apart at the moment, will have a look tonight. sorry your 323i is a bit different. its a blade connector so temp sensor or oil level/pressure sensor?

And the stuttering almost stopped after it was changed (although the ignition harness was done at the same time). If you can't determine the fault through testing try to replace only one component at a time Where is this switch? I have done the throttle opening test and couldn't hear any clicks. Does the M20 have the same system? Yes it is on the underside of the throttle body - google BMW M20 TPS. Ok ... that still leaves the stuttering and engine dying when parked at very steep angles problem unsolved! Maybe this is another consequence of the dirty fuel tank? Also, this vacuum diaphragm seems awfully exposed and damaged (diaphragm split), what's its purpose? And lastly, there is an unused connector alongside the fuel rail at the thermostatic valve housing end, any ideas where it should/could go? I have my m20 apart at the moment, will have a look tonight.

I picked up a nice e30 325i with blown hg, have removed head. po stated hg had been done by reputable indy in tga a year ago, Issue is that while removing rocker shafts, a deformed channell for locking plate has scored shaft journals in head and the rocker bushes. wanting to know if this is a major. Am thinking the shafts are held in place and rockers move so maybe just the rocker bushes?

Still got the extractors?

Check throttle switch, i had a stutter like that on my M10 after a HG change. Switch was full of with degreaser/mayo maybe from when the inlet manifold was inverted, and not functioning. Would starve under throttle then come back as revs dropped. On mine the basic proceedure was manually opening the throttle (engine off ign on) and listening for the click as it just opens. There is a further test involving a DMM and reading the pins under the switch that you can google but mine had no click so was easy. I believe the click on (open) means the ICV is off, click off (closed) means ICV is controlling idle.

Or complete exhaust

Could be keen can you email me pics [email protected]

Texted

Bump, any tan out there?

So have you sussed out if it is the motor or the regulator that is stuffed?

Dealt with this issue on a 4 door swap. The drivers door motors tend to get wet from rain getting in when the window is down. Changing the motor is a much simpler job that swapping out the whole regulator assembly. With the door panel off, you lie under the door and get the 2 downward facing bolts with a torx bit. some wriggling (of the motor) is required to get it back on/in. You can test the motor while out of the door if plugged in but be careful they are quite torquey and will take off across the floor.... Check the plug too, it can get in the wrong place and damaged by the mechanism. I think FL motors is different to PFL but fronts will swap with rears and watch the gasket that comes off between the motor and the housing. Sometimes a good lube will get it going, as is the case with most things........ oh yeah there is a large black washer that sits on the shaft, keep track of it.

You sure its the regulator? have you tested the power at the motor or tried switching the motor from the passenger side?

another fella with no location.... have 2x 14" with Wofable tyres $100 for the pair, pick up in tauranga