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Apex

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Everything posted by Apex

  1. How many KMs do you do a year? I have had good experiences with Dunlop and Goodyear.
  2. I place boxes on my roof all the time and have occasionally left the odd light scratch but will polish straight out. Unless you have a very small excess I would think it pointless to claim. Post up some pictures!
  3. I just park as far away from all other vehicles as possible so I have no dents or scratches on my car, lazy people generally park as close as possible to the shops, and these lazy people generally have little respect for their vehicles. I recommend Maguire’s Scratch X and some elbow grease. Polishing a car is excellent stress relief.
  4. Apex

    M3 GT2 ALMS Version

    Very nice, I love the wheels. White is the new black
  5. Hell no, im bad enough when TXTing at home Hands free Bluetooth calling in both cars, it’s the only way to go!
  6. Apex

    Post pictures

    Cool..That looks like a E30 Touring.. Pictures for a wagon fan Please please!!
  7. Not bad man. Im running the new Pioneer TS-C131PRS and they retail at $600.00 so those look very well priced! Saves you from having to build custom door pods and with the right sound deadening and speaker sealing they will sound good. IMHO when dealing with the smaller 13cm woofer it’s very important to spend some time on sound deadening and sealing work as the size of these speakers always struggle to produce the much needed mid range of a 16cm woofer. How many watts RMS do you plan on feeding your Components?? The best speakers in the world are nothing without enough power.
  8. Apex

    Momo Race wheel

    Haha. I won’t be running my direct port noss kit so no need. It’s a nice wheel, I have just acquired something different and don’t need this anymore.
  9. Yea it’s the Auto dimmer, It took me a while to figure out what it did on mine also
  10. Apex

    Momo Race wheel

    For sale Momo Race Steering wheel. Been on car since December 07. Will throw in E30-Boss Kit if required. $250.00
  11. Thanks Boris, It has plenty of momentum from the get go with no wheel spin at all and really fly’s from low RPM (max boost comes in at 2500RPM) as the Turbo is really small! I have had to back off when chasing an EVO 9 threw some tight stuff as his BIG turbo was still asleep! The 2.2 is a good motor, direct injection and all but it lacks the Coupe/Hatch's looks The Touring will most likely end up with a cleaned up 2.5 at this stage. Look forward to seeing your minta at a meet too, your paint looks bloody good in the photos.
  12. I would go for one of theses and use it to run your Front components as well as your 6x9’s. I have a Earthquake amp that still goes hard after 8 years of abuse and can vouch for their power. http://parallelimported.co.nz/view.php?id=9827 Do call Jamie if you need anything done, he will sort you out.
  13. Will do. Im not going extreme as I want to be able to return it to stock easily if I ever sell it. Not sure what the plan of attack is yet but Jamie is coming out tomorrow to have a look at what can be done utilising the factory mounts and we will also be looking at places to mount a 10†sub that won’t intrude on valuable boot space. I have just ordered my new head deck and amps. Thanks Pioneer NZ I found this head deck to be the jewel on their range as it has built in Bluetooth and full IPod control. http://www.pioneernz.co.nz/default.asp?Obj...Code=DEHP8950BT
  14. I recommend Jamie at Pro Custom Installs, he has fitted out my last three cars and everything he has done has been awesome. Im getting him to do a head deck, two amps a sub and components this week, he has already done my alarm system. Oh and he has a well kited out van so he will come to your work or house and do it while you cook tea Jamie. 021-170-7425 He doesn’t charge much either as he has relatively low overheads in comparison to some of these big name shops out there.
  15. Ha-ha, im what circumstance would anyone deed to reverse around a blind corner?? I failed my full licence when I first went for it because I was driving with one hand on the wheel, not steering just driving down straight down the road! WTF is that rule? Who drives with both hands on the wheel the whole time?
  16. No Peter Robinson is a Wheels Magazine journalist that has been with the mag for decades and is recognised as one of Australia’s best automotive journalists, he still writes for the magazine and is based in Europe. He’s famous for crashing a pre production Lambo Diablo in the mid nineties.
  17. From E30ZONE. The 2.7 ETA ENGINE These arrived in 1983 to power the 525e and 325e (not UK) although the US had them in 1982 for the 528e. Eta is the Greek symbol for efficiency and it’s a low revving engine rich in low speed torque but low on power. It doesn’t rev much past 4500 and uses an 84mm bore and an 81mm stroke crank to give 2693cc. The crank is made from spheroidal grey cast iron and the connecting rods are the same 130mm end-to-end items as the 320, 320i, 520, 520i and 323i. The cylinder head is derived from the E21 320/323i and E12 520 small port head known as the 200 from its casting number. It has a special four bearing cam designed for low speed torque and it is useless. Throw the entire Eta head in a skip, it is of no use at all for a performance application. The same goes for the inlet manifold and throttle body, injectors, ECU and AFM. You just need are the block, crank, rods and possibly pistons (more of pistons later). Early Etas up until Sept. 1985 had a compression ratio of 11:1. The blocks of these engines is stamped 27 6KA. From 9/86 the compression ratio was dropped to 10.2:1 and these engines are stamped 27 6EB. These numbers are stamped above the main engine number. BMW dropped the CR due to detonation issues on 95RON - no knock sensors back then! To build a 2.7 you have three options: 1.) Retain the standard Eta bottom end untouched and fit a head from an E30 320i or 323i. This is the ‘731’ head which has much bigger inlet ports than the 200/Eta. It has the same sized valves as the Eta which are 40mm inlet and 34mm exhaust. The combustion chambers are identical the Eta 200 head so by fitting a 731 head, you will retain the Eta compression ratio. From here you can open up the tops of the inlet ports using a 325i inlet manifold gasket as a template to accept a 325i inlet manifold, or you can use the 320i/323i manifold with or without a 325i throttle body. It will be a bit flat at the top end without one though. You’re not likely to get past 180 bhp but it will be pretty torquey. 2.) Use the standard Eta bottom end with a 325i head, the ‘885’ unit. The 325i has strange pistons with a deep dish but a raised section at the front of the combustion chamber to accommodate it. Despite what ‘experts’ say, the 325i head will NOT give a horribly low compression ratio. The difference in chamber volume is quite small. The 325i head has a chamber volume of @ 42.5cc and the 731 and 200 heads have a chamber volume of @38cc. It all depends on whether the head has been skimmed. But 4.5cc difference isn’t much at all and much of the increased size of the 325i chamber is made up for by the bigger valves and surrounding raised areas around them. 325i valve sizes are 42mm inlet and 36mm exhaust. A lot has been said about Eta pistons being incompatible with the 325i head. Most of it is nonsense as this has been done many times and it works okay. Of course it won’t give results quite as good as using the matching 325i pistons but it still has a good compression ratio which is most of the battle won. Again, depending on which gasket is used and whether the head has been skimmed, using a 325i head on a later 10.2:1 Eta short engine will give a CR of 9.4:1 which is plenty. If you can even find an early 11:1 Eta engine, the CR would be 10:1 which is even better. Because you are using a 325i head, just bolt a 325i inlet manifold straight on. I converted a 1986 525e Auto to this spec and it was very lively - 0-80 in 21 seconds which is just 1 second slower than an auto 528i which has both 184 bhp and a lower final drive. Then I pulled the engine out and it went into an E30 Touring 3.) Using 325i pistons with a 325i head. This is the best way of doing it but requires a complete engine strip down. Doing this, the pistons of course match the head. Compression ratios will be 9.4:1 using post 9/87 (plastic bumper) 8.8:1 CR pistons and 10.4:1 using the early pre 9/87 (steel bumper) 9.75:1 CR pistons. Why the higher CR in a 2.7? Because it has an extra 49.8cc of fuel/air mixture to compress. To keep the con rod angle correct, BMW made the 325i conrods 5mm longer. So if you fitted a 2.7 81mm crank into a 325i block (basically the same as the Eta block), the pistons would stick out of the top of the bore by 3mm. To get around this, you need to use 130mm Eta/2 litre rods. Then the pistons don’t come to the top of the bore - about 2mm short in fact. It’s no good guessing how much to take off the block face because early Eta blocks were very slightly taller (we’re talking half a mm maybe) so you need to fit a 325i piston and 130mm rod to the Eta crank and block, take it to a machine shop and get it measured up properly to get an exact figure. It won’t cost any more, and it’ll be bang on. 1.5 - 2mm is just a ballpark figure. The next problem is that with @2mm off the block, the crank and the cam are now 2mm closer together which will mean the cam timing will be wrong. For this you will need a vernier (adjustable) cam pulley to adjust the cam timing, particularly if you’re using an aftermarket cam. Early 325i pistons (9.75:1) have deep skirts and need 12mm machining off the skirts because they’ll foul the Eta’s crank webs. Later pistons clear fine though. Other stuff: ECU etc: You will need a complete 325i Motronic set up. ECU, inlet manifold with injectors, air flow meter. Good news if you already have a 325i. The ECU will need remapping. A 2.7 engine will have faster piston speed meaning it’s gets to the top of the bore and point of ignition faster - over a 325i, the piston has an extra 6mm to travel in the same amount of time (one crank revolution), requiring a change in ignition timing. It’ll need more fuelling too. Head Gasket: Eta and 325i are the same. You can buy standard or thicker gaskets which will lower the compression. Radiator: Is the standard 325i radiator okay? Yes, it’s fine. Spark Plugs: Which spark plugs? Bosch W7DCR or it’s NGK equivalent. Plastic bumper 325i’s use W8’s which aren’t right for a 2.7. 2.7’s are higher compression engines and higher compression ratios equal more heat and you need a plug to dissipate the heat faster. The W7 is known to work. Crank: UK 525e’s were autos and you need to fit a spigot bearing in the flywheel end of the crank. How to tell an Eta crank from a steel diesel crank? Eta cranks will have either GG or GGG cast into a web meaning cast iron. Both will have ‘Hub.81’ cast in denoting the stroke. 81 is Eta/diesel, 75 is 325i, 66 is 2 litre and 76.8 is 323i. Cylinder Heads: 731 or Eta heads don’t work with 325i pistons because the raised crown would smack into the head and lock it up. Sump: The E30 sump fits straight to an Eta block but you need 25 longer bolts because an alloy sump is thicker than a pressed steel one. The BMW part number is 07119915031. Eta steel sumps will not fit an E30. It’s too long and will foul the rack. TDC Sensor: Eta blocks have the two threaded holes to take the later Motronic front TDC sensor.
  18. Sorry If you can’t read it, I do have the full sized scan.
  19. Whilst hunting threw my Magazine back catalogs I found this article from Australian Wheels Magazine February 1988. Enjoy.
  20. My cars Rego expired last week so does that mean if I go through a check point tonight my BMW should be crushed?? Yea right. Get what im saying.
  21. Just because a car has no WOF or REG doesn’t mean it’s unsafe. Mobile car crushing sounds ridiculous. I wish they would spend some money on driver training subsidies.
  22. They are fazing them out slowly, pretty sure it’s the end of 09.. either way its going to be very hard to police as technology will simply evolve to suit.
  23. The best product you can get is Meguiars Hot Shine Tire Spray. No argument. its the best by a long shot. I have tried every product known to man for the last 15 years and this is the one… It’s not cheap (unless you have a wholesale account at as I do ) but it lasts for two-three weeks depending on how much driving you do and has an adjuster for different profile tire’s, very handy when you have two cars with completely different profiles like me. Product # G12115
  24. That’s a nice BMW Henie! Looks smart in silver with the M-Tech kit, the price looks ok too. Kurt at ChipTuning claims a 21kw increase in power and a 50nm increase in torque, not a bad gain for $1,100 in my books, with a couple more mods it’ll be pushing 140kw and nearly 400nm! I would have thought 150,000km is average for a NZ New car? That’s only 18,750km a year. Cracks me up when people judge a car on its KM’s, a NZ new car that has done 200,000km with a full service history is worth more to me than a Japanese abused import with no history what so ever.
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