JiB

Sounds like Zenetti's on to it. I just assumed your bits were the right length

Keeping it simple (but godammit tourings are fugly from some angles ): This one is pretty much ideal

Alpina Australia Looks like they came with tyre valves outside the centrecaps too?

Damn....have these on my watchlist. It is a pity that one of them is damaged...I also think 750 is pricey for wheels needing repair. But they're branded!

Regardless....those wheels are many flavours of awesome!

More ARB = usually faster weight transfer too..and it also depends what you're running in the front of the car too...isn't Nathan running an aftermarket front ARB? Yup, pretty much I think. Do it Nathan.

Series cars aren't allowed LSD's...so their setup would be different. But I'm no expert! I just think that a rear ARB would counter-act any understeer the LSD generates on initial throttle...and don't forget you have a front biased car (if it's stripped out as you say)! The series 6 cyl's have to run loads of weight so they can reduce the front bias...so remember - there are quite a few differences between your setup and a series setup. I stress again - this is my 2c worth.

I think you'd want a softer rear spring rate if you have no weight in the rear. If I were you, I'd just get some series springs...the series cars aren't slouches! And I think you have an LSD right? Maybe get a bigger rear ARB 'cos you can probably put up with greater weight transfer in the rear. Remember this is all my 2c.

I think you guys might be looking at it slightly off. It depends whether Nathan thinks the spring rate is correct or not. If you want to keep the springs, get different dampers. If you want to keep the dampers change the springs. Have you tried max hard on the rear dampers? Bouncing is usually a case of being under damped. The series springs are quite soft - am assuming Eibach's are much harder. This is an example of why it is important to match dampers to the application. Usually you want a damper that is slightly overdamped, just above critical damping. edit: What are the Eibach's spring rates? They may be wrong for a stripped coupe. Usually ride frequency of non-downforce tintops should be 0.5-1.5Hz IIRC. This is dependent on sprung mass and motion ratios (suspension travel)

Does anyone have dimensions for the plates? Or have I missed it in that thread ^

This is probably the least hassle. And you can check fitment before purchasing

Either 225/50R15 or 225/45R16's.... poop. 225's fitted no probs on the race car...but I had camber

Sorry, I was probably not very clear. But if you read my post carefully, it says both 195/50R16 and 195/45R16 read faster than stock. The profile on the side of the tyre wall is a percentage of the width of the tyre. So, if factory size is 195/65R14, 205/50R16, 225/45R16 will read pretty much the same. 195/50R16 will read faster, because it has a smaller sidewall than 205/50R16 195/45R16 will read even faster, because it has a smaller sidewall than 195/50R16. To be precise, it will read 4.5k's faster than normal. So assuming the E30 speedo is accurate (which it isn't), and with 195/65R14's it reads a 100kph and you are travelling 100kph, then a 195/45R16 will read at 95.5kph. Here is an easy to understand reference for comparing tyres. Hope that makes sense.

Perhaps drop it in with Glenn or any other workshop familiar with BMWs. Our forum sponsor EuroItalian is very good with pricing on genuine parts. Give Gavin a call.

Ok, if you want to compromise - you probably need to roll the guards and get more stretch. The ideal 16x8 size is 225/45R16, but this is going to rub. So you probably want 195/50R16 which will read a couple of k's faster. But that profile would probably look lame or something, so you'd want 195/45R16 which would read 5k's faster than normal sized tyres. I'd run a higher offset wheel with 225/45R16's

Or....your wheels are the wrong fitment? If you want to keep the wheel fitment - then run more camber and roll the bollocks out of the guards. The solution is definitely not to reduce the travel, but to get the wheel and tyre inside the guard under full compression.

Hi guys, Just wondering if anyone has 8" fronts on an E30 that fits like factory? Not interested in aggressive looking or poke or stretch. I don't want to roll my guards, or remove guard lining, or use more than 2.5deg camber. I have 225 width semi slicks I want to fit inthe guards whilst retaining full suspension travel without rubbing. So far I've come up with an offset of 18p on an 8" wheel, but I'm really not sure on clearances. Closest wheel I've found are these. I miss not having 4x114.3 Anyone have experience with 8" non-poke/stretch/roll?

Surely that is also a spring rate issue? Dampers will only really change the rate at which the car pitches, not as much the extent at which the car pitches.

I am definitely not envious of the wiring ahead of you! But it's gonna be reasonably awesome once the coupe's powered by little boosted Japanese horses. What's the weight difference between the stuff going in and the stff going out? Changing your front spring rates/dropping a ARB size? Gonna keep the cage green to differentiate them? I'm thankful my to-do list on the touring is reasonably small, got exams in a fortnight too

Looking good! Man, those Alpinas look the business. What size are they Ray?

Poop, online quote from Jeff's is close to a grand Anyone dealt with http://www.captaintransporter.co.nz?

Any Alpina reps in the incoming shipment Jono?

Time is an issue, and long trips in a race car is never an enjoyable experience. Will investigate train. Cheers mark. P.S. Perhaps more incest, a car might be returning to Auckland.

My car needs to get to Christchurch, and a car needs to get from Christchurch to Auckland. Anyone have experience, contacts, companies they can recommend? Price? Cheers.

Let me know what you end up doing if you move the mc and booster. Very interested. I'm slowly working on making my own pedal box (unboosted)...but e30 has taken a backseat too.