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Everything posted by JiB
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Back on topic: I don't have any rubber in the front of my car. Even the top mounts have needle bearings instead of anything with compliance. I'm guessing a strut brace would be benficial? I'm more concerned about reducing the stress on the strut housings. My cage already extends to them, but the top of them is standard. Any recommendations?
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My version of "low enough" is unfortunately past the point of beneficial lowering. Right now the sump is about 90-100mm off the floor I have the car in the air at the moment. I'll measure the fronts and report back.
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I have the W1001. The AutoOne price is very close to what I paid. Good value imho. The maximum jack height is awesome too. Moktar's one is a LOT lighter though! I can barely barely lift mine.
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I too would like to know? (call me stupid ) I'd assume strut braces are much stiffer under compression than at rest, but would this not move the strut top when tht strut is unloaded (ie after the peak of a bump)? Thus reducing suspension accuracy? I would have thought having the strut brace holding where the struts are at "neutral" would be more effective - even with the added compliance.
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In my limited experience, I have not had or seen any scrutineers jack the car up to check for captivity. I'm sure I did the kemp rd hillclimb uncaptive and that was with the mg car club who are reasonably stringent. Henry, my shocks were also too short. GC provided a tube of metal that you cut to size to space the bottom of the shock. Was this included somewhere in your kit? I'll try explain better - would moving the shock up from the bottom of the strut help? If so that can be easily done with a bit of tube. GC provides this bit of tube so you can cut and weld your strut to whatever length you want and use the shock in a longer strut. Hope that makes sense.
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I'm a Will Roegge fan myself. (Secret dirf lover) edit: Gimme a text if you're keen on a techII wing upper.
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You will giggle when you drive the car again. I can guarantee that. Are you running an aftermarket diff bush too? Or just subframe bushes? Btw, re: barrel shaped rear springs - when I bought my kit, race rates are straight, the barrel ones are street rates.
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Lots of fun despite being hilariously slow for such large engines (E30 2.5, E46 2.8). E46 has better chassis, but E30's more fun.
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And if you want the same Evo recaro's in pimp black alcantara with red stitching - get em out of a DC2R. They share the same rails IIRC.
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I use a Wayco Super Low, from Repco, it's excellent. Has dual pistons, etc, etc. Best to find a friend who is staff. Staff price is absolutely ridiculous.
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Castor ftmfw. I currently run 9deg castor E30's are hilariously fun to drive with castor.
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Holy sh*t, is that a suede momo? Pimp dude!
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Front struts for me were shortened a bit so that they were more evn with rear...but front now too low haha. Um, my shocks came preadjusted based on the spring rates I was running. I haven't touched the rears, but have adjusted fronts to match my new springs. Btw, gearbox's can be mapped to shift without dog engagement teeth. This means that dependent on engine speed, the next gear will always have a matching tooth to engage at full chat (no lift). This costs many many $$$ Some of the Formula Toyotas have this done if I remember correctly. I still do not understand it fully, as a Formula First driver was attempting to explain it to me over a bus ride Otherwise, (iirc) there's an inbetween for helical and straight cut gears. They're not entirely helical but still diagonal and still called helical - basically really chunky barely helical gears, so they're a lot stronger than helical gearsets but have reduced noise. These are usually matched with dog collars for a hardcore street package.
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I thrashed Kemp Rd hillclimb with mine, even with my WTFBBQTIMEATTACK spring rates it dealt to broken surfaces quite well. Your spring rates would make it sublime! Did they dyno match the shocks and springs for you too? Welcome to t3h GC squad y0!
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Heh, they're round the corner from me too. Pity they have no hope of fitting my brakes
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It's the spoke and barrel design that matters. 3piece wheels (in my experience) have a nice big barrel but the face of the wheel is often flat and inset so it fouls on the caliper face. The barrels one piece wheels usually step up to the spokes so they may foul on the caliper radially. However, unless you're using 350mm+ this should not be a problem with 17" wheels. The depth of the rotor being used also matters, this may push the caliper face further into the wheel. I'm not sure what the situation is with E36's, but I needed to use a shallower rotor to clear the balljoint in my E30 and as a result the caliper and rotor now sit 5mm+ outwards of the original rotor centreline. This makes the spoke design even more crucial. During my search, I found the higher end wheels like SSR Type C, or Rays SE37K to be the most accomodating. For the record I've managed to squeeze 300mm 4piston system inside 15" wheels (SSR Type C) as opposed to the wilwood 286mm kit that is meant for 16". Hope that helps.
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I <3 Rally M3's. They always look so well setup. And the drivers always seem to have impeccable driver control. Wish I had the money and time to develop that kind of driving skill!
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Make sure you have a big brake kit that fits behind the BBS's. They don't have much x factor - especially if going to a large rotor - the bolts make the calipers foul. I had to sell my RS's when I went for bigger brakes. My 2c
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I has a kit on my race car It makes me go fastererer, honest.
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The top of the rear FL bumper kinda pokes into the arch gap. So I'd imagine a decent bit of surgery is need to make that bit fit.
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Front's the easy bit, just chop off the tow hooks and everything bolts up. The rear arches don't fit with the rear bumper though. And neither does the last side pod.
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That was a very quick sale for a modified car, albeit street oriented modification, you must be properly chuffed with that! Lol, unfortunately for us Henry, track-spec cars are very hard to sell I doubt anyone would even think about buying my car for a decent price!
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I feel your pain! I remember the GST on my kit was somewhat substantial as
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I like this one.