JiB

Yes, this was clarified when it became apparent that I had bought more wheels than she had shoes in the last 12 months. But I can always on-sell wheels

What does an Alpina rear wing look like? I don't really think I'm that bad. But at one point I had four different fronts for for my E30 (2x PFL lips and valences, FL Valence, and tech1 kit) sitting in the garage 'cos I liked them. Have a small collection of rear wings as well. I'm on my 8th set of wheels in the last 12 months, some of them never even made it on the car. Possibly excessive/unnecessary. A lot of the stuff that did make it onto the track hack were the result of don't-need-but-want. Coilovers, pimp seats, LSD, etc. In fact, I don't need a track hack. CamB is worse...he hoards enough spare bits to be a works team.

Dammit, I thought flouro green BBS RS's hadn't been done yet...poo. I'll have to find other GDM wheels to desecrate.

I think bait has been eatededed Btw, no sports in my small knowledge has ever run tyres outside their parameters for the better - apart from drifting? That's a can of worms if there ever was one. It's weird to think that point scoring is entirely subjective. This is opposed to time, distance based "sports". Even freestyle sports have acheivement levels - e.g. 360 > 180, etc. Meh, perhaps, it's better compared to formed based sports like ballroom dancing, etc Anyways, assuming drifting is a sport - their stretched tyres don't last very long/don't have to stay on the rim for very long compared to a daily driven vehicle. That said, I haven't actually seen any tyres, stretched or not, leaving the bead before.

Disclaimer: More internet talkz I'm not sure those count as "stretching" even if they look stretched. They were probably designed to run on that width of wheel? I know kart slicks certainly "look" stretched even if they're just being run on the rim they're designed for. For example, it'd be like comparing a skinny 205/50R15 like a Falken on a 7.5 to a "fat" Hoosier 205/50R15 on a 9. They'd both look to have about the same amount of stretch, but one is probably more prone to failing because of operating outside it's design parameters?

It that tape over the indicator hole? Looks like they've just painted over the tape. Or maybe it's a stealth inidcator of sorts?

Getrag 265? Does it have a dogleg first? If so, how much do you want for it?

Interwebs theory (consider this a disclaimer) goes that: Stretching in theory would reduce the ability of a tyre to cope with rough surfaces or small undulations. The modulation needed would be too fast for the shock, etc to handle adequately - leaving the tyre to handle the rest. I.E. it is easier to move a bit of rubber with compliance than the entire unsprung of a car. Inertia is related to weight, so the entire unsprung would be heavier, and harder to move than the contact patch of the tyre under pressure - so the tyre can react faster = more grip. I'm not sure what the effects are in practice. I have 205's toyo proxes on 8's for the rear, and it's less composed than 205 on 7 in Bridgestone G3's. I can't tell whether it's the stretch or the tyre. Mind you, I have driven 225 RE001's on 8's and 6.5" extensively, and they go a lot better on the 8"s. So it can be detrimental as well, not having enough width? Back in the day, my dad used to use 175's on a 13x7...on his brand new datsun 1200 He still thinks rims should be wider than the tyre. Direct quote - "to make it less wiggly when you're racing it in the twisties".

Want one with a offensively green cage? Not sure it's nice though

Nothing wrong with PFL's, they're 80's pimpin. They're lighter and they've got the big rear arches I did sell my techII kit for a techI

Heh, scary washing machine comments have spilled over onto his car auction. Oh man, just found his build thread for that EJ7 coupe the guy's selling. It's got a very choice setup, even if I'm not a fan of EJ's. No, he's just a funny guy. Terry Pratchett kinda funny. Nothing wrong with grammar. Grammar makes language efficient. And it's spelt grammar btw. (As MC Hammer has kindly spelt for you).

Well, you could just make some assumptions from windows up? Take Centre of Mass for sum of those masses as inertia around Centre of Gravity (of whole car) and then seperate the 7kg and do a particle CoM as a percentage of CoM (windows up) to give some indication as to how significant the change is? (you'd probably end up +/- 1000000000N after all the assumptions though ) I'm too lazy to do it now 'cos I'm on a study break for my Statics & Dynamics exam tomorrow haha. edit: I tried making it less confusing..I think I failed

Wow, he has very fast Hondas for sale as well! Maybe they're for running away from the washing machine?

I stand corrected! I know my old car had factory hid's. They were absolutely fantastic at night. Could pick out road surfaces very well.

....Uh, most cars only have HID low beams. Highs are mostly just normal ones? Well, for cars I've had experience with anyway because HID's aren't very good with distance, just good with volume - shorter wavelength and more of it IIRC.

If it stays non tech2: Paint door handles - Yes Paint door trim - No Paint wingmirrors - Yes Paint front and rear bumpers - Yes, but leave bumper trim black Leave under the doors black - No If I buy a tech2 kit for it: Paint door handles - Yes Paint wingmirrors - Yes TechII's played out imho Rock a sacked FL ftw. Inspiration But maybe with iS sideskirts as well?

Did the certifier need to see both sets of wheels on the car?

I have to think sometimes.

I also detest foglights when there's no fog, rear fogs especially. The fronts just make it look like you're trying too hard. Also my seating position in my e30 (thanks to MSNZ rules) is the perfect height to be dazzled by front fogs. It's unnecessary and unsafe. I completely agree with Graham. P.S. I also drive with my lights on during the day, especially in the e30. Delphin Metallic seems to have a camouflage effect with highway tar. So yes, I am a hater.

$800 is getting up there....I've got a Int'l FIA approved Bell M3 and I only paid $500 ish (can't quite remember)?

Are the higher torque settings to compensate for friction modifiers? Copper grease etc? Would make sense I guess?

Have only just seen this. Ah, poo, that sucks. At least you're in one piece! Any news on the car Nathan? Perhaps time to find a new shell with 900cc extra displacement? On a lighter note: Embarrassingly, my race car has roof racks

I wouldn't know, but wouldn't a torque stick defeat the point of a torque wrench? They're meant to flex with the impacts delivered by a impact wrench when a certain torque/moment is reached.. Torque wrenches need the surrounding bodies to be rigid to measure the moment created to provide accurate readings (not to mention linear force being applied)? I'm sure +/-10nm is acceptable for a street vehicle's wheel bolts? These are the boundaries of the torque sticks in my limited experience with them? edit: I'm in no way defending sloppy workmanship, but was just saying a torque stick in my opinion is acceptable (assuming correct calibration)

Impact wrenches can be used with the correct torque sticks for the required wheel stud torque, so don't be too quick to yell at them for using impact wrenches if there's a bright coloured looking extension attached. That said, overtightening can result in stretched and weakened bolts which are somewhat dangerous.

That looks badass. Needs a matte black tech1 rear wing/homemade sheet metal for more win.