nastnas

yup me aswell, on a 16V with ITBS!

car made 178.2kW on the dyno which is 10kW more than before the VANOS maintenance...

cheers bud, will get onto those profiles tomorrow.

so its all done... and i am very impressed with the mid range pull... i thought that the M3 was good then... its freaking awesome now... this has solved alot of my problems, unstable idle, noisy engine, apparently no mid range power, better fuel consumption... saturdays dyno day will be interesting, im hoping to break the 170kW mark, with much better power gains in the mid range...

now from here follow the PDF attached. it is a really detailed guide and do not take shortcuts. here are some pics to aid the guide. the VANOS unit removed notice the black plate, behind that is the problem... black plate removed the black plate showing the o ring, which will be changed the damaged oil seal, which will be why i am loosing oil pressure to the VANOS unit Im stuck at this point till tomorrow, as i will order these bits from a local supplier. can't wait for the extra power...

Firstly, I have removed the DIY part from the title, as i do encourage more enthusiasts to try it, but i think with the DIY in the title, it makes it seems easy. I am not trying to make myself sound really good, I just do not want to mislead people into thinking that this is quite an easy DIY. ok bullshit aside, here goes. If your M3 has a rattle and idle pulses, and you feel the power is not as it should be then the chances are you probably have a bust oil seal in your VANOS unit. The VANOS requires oil pressure to adjust the cams on the splines. When the oil seal perishes the pressure is much less, and the variable valve timing is affected. the tools you will need are a GOOD socket set and hex drive set. I say good, as the sets can ruin the fasteners and since there are quite a bit of socket head cap srews everywhere due to the tight engine bay, you will round them, if your tools are SHITE!!!! so invest in a GOOD set before you start. Some people dont use this but I think its good to use an adjustable torque wrench, to tigthen the fasteners correctly. You will also need the tools to get your fan out. start by removing the fan, you will need a 32mm spanner and a hammer, or if you can get a hold of the proper 2 piece set, you should be cool. Then remove the COP cover, the 1 with the "M POWER" on it, and remove all the COPS, and the clips which hold the plugs down. then start on the rocker cover(known by many names, the cover for the cam shafts), there are a few bolts there, so take them off and label them, as a few of them have different lengths. once you're done gently remove it and admire the awesomeness of DOHC and 24Vs, check to see if there is any sludge or buildup of gunk... mine looks pretty good, im quite happy about that... here is a pic of my engine, euro30install.pdf

In the middle of doing this at the moment, will post up some pics, and a bit of a DIY for fellow enthusiasts...

hi guys, have to do the fan clutch as i can spin the fan quite freely... have read that im not meant to do this. does anyone have a tool that i can borrow to get the fan nut off? cheers

oh that jetta is whip! who owns it?

im a camera noob too, but get prime leneses and a filters, its good for removing glare....

that was a real quick sale.... its only worth what someone is willing to pay for it mate... a good example would of been an auction, but in the end, you wanted a quick sale and got one. so have no regrets mate... its just a car... cheers PS. what is the new car?

bugger... was hoping a bimmersport member bought it

you dont need the loom, stand alone EFI is an option as well, depends what you want to do with the car that its been transplanted into...

my shocks were completely nackered in the beemer, now have changed to Bilstein B6s and well impressed with them.... would recommend them to anyone... just drove to whitianga over the weekend which confirmed my feelings of awesomeness i got mine through basil at autopassion for about $1500...

that looks fugly.... IMO

able to get more?

nice....

you should swap with me...

hi guys, a while back there was a set which sold for $800, from memory 1 of them had a crack in them. just wandering if these were sold to a bimmersport member? cheers

who quoted you guys $400?

is that gearknob like really heavy?

i paid $1490 for a set of Bilstein B6s from Autopassion. well worth it, im loving it!

haha, all good mate... once a cheater....

that is not correct, Alpha N uses RPM and throttle position as the axis for the spark and fuel maps. whereas normal speed density algorithms use Manifold pressure and RPM as the axis for the spark and fuel maps. mass air flow sensors are used as well, as they can be equated to engine load, ie Manifold absolute Pressure (MAP). I know how, I've megasquirted my previous car, running both algortithms ( not at the same time )

he's probably being sarcastic...