Jacko

Shhh, the gubment will force us all to drive leafs with that sort of carry-on. Think of the children in the cobalt mines of the Congo!

Looking at Carly's diagnostic parameters, everything is there from oil temp to DISA valve positions, just need to find the magical string and PIDs to get it working in Torque Pro. Tried running Torque scan, whilst driving, for 40min and it found nothing....

Spent 30m this morning trying to get the BMW ELM327 specific initialisation string to work, I want oil temp on my "dash" , but cant get it to output anything with this string, default works fine but is missing all the manufacturer specific goodness. Has anyone managed to get this to work? AT PB E1 01\nAT CRA 612\nAT SH 6F1\nAT FC SH 6F1\nAT FC SD 12 30 0F 02\nAT FC SM1\nAT CEA 12\nAT CM 600\nAT H1\nAT SP B\nAT BI\nAT AL\n

Thingy/Widget is the technical term. Just tried it again, still doesnt work for me ? Error code: 98 Error description: Dms not answering

Anyone else unable to get the online service/recall checker thing working at https://www.bmw.co.nz/en/topics/offers-and-services/personal-services/bmw-recall/all-other-recalls.html Sometimes the widget loads, sometimes it doesnt, and when it does It gives me "vehicle not found" errors for rego or vin. Takes forever to respond as well. Tried with explorer/edge and chrome

Tell him he's dreaming.

Jebus that guy is rough Looks pretty certain that ya CCV system is poked. Dont forget to order new intake manifold seals. This is the a/c disconnect tools, without them you will invent entirely new swear words for hours trying to get the line off the sump drain. https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/toledo-toledo-a-c-and-fuel-disconnect-set/SPO1351694.html

Ahh sssshed, you're right just remeasured it with a calibrated rule

370mm, pretty decent condition. Whats it worth? Edit, my bad its 385mm

Im not familiar with the manifold on those, but on the 3 stage disa x30i's you can remove the big DISA valve with the intake manifold installed. If you can access it, pulling it out and seeing how wet the innards are will be big tell tale of failed CCV.

Do the simple stuff first, check for vacuum leaks etc. Taking the manifold off and doing the CCV system is more work than doing the waterpump etc. I wouldnt be surprised if its poked, but if rule out the simple/cheap/easy first. Id clear the code, drive it for a week, and recheck for leaks and if the code comes back.

Thats not it. This is the one on my 330, yours will be similar - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-crankcase-breather-kit-11617531423kt1 check on realoem.com. Its pretty annoying job, grab some aircon disconnect tools (cheap) to disconnect the sump connection, its a total pig without them. You can change them without changing the lines, however odds are good you will break a line removing them (they get really brittle) - This is what mine did with a dead CCV, it was coating all the manifolds sensors with oil, and making the fuel trims go all up the pish. Reseting the DME adaptations fixed it temporarily, post CCV it uses the same as the 130 (maybe 100ml between oil changes)

Check out the penrite site, the supercheap listing doesnt have all the spec. I have about 210,000km N52B30 kms ticked up on the Castrol now (between two cars), last oil change switched to HPR 5, as saw it also met the spec.. and is arguably technically superior...

Nope, LL01 5w30. https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/castrol-castrol-edge-engine-oil---5w-30-a3-b4-5-litre/299206.html#q=Castrol%2B5w30&lang=en_NZ https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/penrite-penrite-hpr-5-engine-oil---5w-40-5-litre/14911.html#q=HPR+5&sz=1&start=12

Oil grades - BMW LL Rated 5w30. Castrol make some, super cheap have it on special often. Penrite HPR5 5w40+10 also meets the LL spec, and the 5w30 spec (and comes in a 6l bottle, handy for the 6.5l sump) Oil in them is pretty critical IMHO, the LL spec includes all the additives for the magnesium block, and the vanos system is not gonna be happy running weird viscosity, never mind all the bearing tolerances (or the cam ledges). The only really lunched N52 ive heard of was a guy running 0W50 superbike oil in one... because racecar?

N51s are US spec emissions choked versions (SULEV). Your car should be an N52B25A N52s, of the "silver top" variety run an external CCV system, which is a known failure point. Essentially its an oil/air seperator under the intake manifold which dumps oil back to the sump, and the fumes to the intake. When they die, the oil goes to the intake. Pretty common reason for excessive oil consumption. Oil leaks - Rocker Gasket - It'll pool over exhaust manifold and stink. They also break bolts (ali, torque to yeild, and often just snap because they can). If its broken a bolt, since the engine work, it'll leak like a sieve. Lift the engine cover and check they all still have heads. Sump Gasket - Common leak, left rear corner, will pool on bottom of bellhousing where the o2 sensor plugs are, gets hot as gets flicked on exhausts and stinks Valvetronic motor gasket - Look under the engine cover, will pool out on top of rocker cover and down the plug tubes etc Oil Cooler/Filter fitting - Common leak, makes a mess down front of engine. Put ya hand under neath the oil cooler and you'll know if its leaking

BMW 130 owners unite Have you driven a 330 or 130? 330s are nice cars, and not "slow", but nowhere near as fun as 130, much nicer to drive a reasonable distance in though... horses for courses.

Turns out is not detuned from Z4 at all, some of the dyno pulls are showing 380+

I have no experience with monroes, so cant say sorry. My 330 is running Bilstein B4 touring shocks, and its noticeably less harsh and crashy than old but shagged OEM shocks on factory msport springs. They were $200ish NZ a corner delivered.

realoem.com is your friend I wouldnt bother putting in old shocks (40k and 12 years old?) . Replacements, at OEM or better spec, arent expensive (fcpeuro etc)

I went from Assy3s to RE003s recently. Assy 3s are WAY quieter and actually feel better on the pointy end than Re003s, not that RE003s are bad just that the F1s felt better, like they are pointing where you want. Dry grip, probably very similar, hard to quantify. F1s are also EPIC in the wet, you can lean on them hard without fear as they feel very sure footed and progressive. RE003s are also much cheaper.

Eagle F1 assy 3s, great all round.