Jacko

Post 93(ish?) they changed the suspension geometry which reduced that tendency, I had a 95 SW20 for awhile, was well behaved.

MR2s are one of the things that popped up in my brain, even a "dull" non turbo SW20 (2nd gen) are quiet fun and very reliable 3SGE camry underneath. Bit long in the tooth, but.. MR-S (3rd gen) is also an option, would meet more modern safety standards, and are convertible which gets girl bonus cool points. 1st gen AW11s are very rare in any condition that would be worth buying, unless you're an absolute enthusiast (they're awesome fun though)

Safety a factor? I can think of a few but by modern standards they are death traps.

I got mine from Birds in the UK, has Kayne Barrie motorsport rebuild the diff with the LSD centre installed. Totally changes the character of the car for the better.

Awesome, E81s are very rare here, yours is the second Ive seen. UK/Singapore import? Step 1 with a 130 : LSD Edit - Singapore - https://www.mdecoder.com/decode/ve72044

Agreed, Haldex is terrible to drive "enthusiastically". might as well just be FWD and save the weight, at least then there isnt any misconceptions about understeer.

Well, maybe humanity has lost its way then

Got stuck behind a 2018 320 GT yesterday, after taking Rays S65 130 around the block. BMW have lost their way.

Agreed, his youtube channel was better than post clarkson "Top gear"

Bump. Getting dusty. Need to clean house before sale.

Offfffffeerrrss, surely half the E8/9xs out there have flogged out rear end bushes

Make me an offer... Going to sell house soon so need to clean up

Minizzle

NVH - No not really, the SMF caused way more (my guess anyway, I did it all at once ,but changing box fluid flavour stopped any gearlash chatter when the fluid got warm) Shift effort is the same, but its very very direct, nearly feels gated. I drove another manual car last month, and realised how much better the 130 shift is now. Definitely a good upgrade and its easy to do.

Unbolt pump and thermostat, bolt new one on. Use new bolts and torque to spec. Use BMW Coolant and bleed the system, bobs your uncle. Took me 4 easy hours. The BMW Service manual that covers it is online. FWIW, you normally get a few error codes prior to total pump failure. Its nowhere near as bad as the internet makes out.

Same, 100,000km+ of non run flats, and never had to use it. Have had a puncture a couple of times, but tpm picked it up with plenty of pressure to spare to get it repaired.

Yeah I do, have two working ones that I removed for troubleshooting and replaced.

The problem is depreciation, it was a 6 figure car when it was new, unfortunately parts to fix to not depreciate at the same rate. We have a market that supports importing more cars and scrapping the ones we have, things like aging high end euros do not have much value in that market. Sounds like you bought a lemon to be honest, and werent prepared for the fact that it wasnt going to be cheap to look after. How did you spend so much money on servicing and not get told of, or notice, the oil leaks and smoke??

Bit of an update, the PU bushes that came with the eibach sway bars started creaking, coupla thousand ks post install, they have some sorta cloth embedded into the internal surface and used some flavour of white grease. Dropped the bars, cleaned all the white goo out and replaced with the clear goo that came with the Superpro PU bushes (that are on everything else, and dont squeek/creek). All working good.

Probably be fantastic as scrap metal, might get $40 at metalman.

Update on this, few thousand ks on car since CCV system replacement, all fixed, no longer chugs back oil and is running nice

RWD.. 4WD models are badged iX and rocking horse teeth in NZ. Whatever you do take it to a specialist BMW shop to get a PPI done

http://www.zeperfs.com/en/duel3001-7256.htm nuff said...