BM WORLD

maybe a fault in the cluster or cables/plugs betweent the cluster and the obc

theres quite a few of them , some in the engine bay around the fuse box and dianostic port. also the ones under the dash both sides into the metal frame that the dash bolts to (quite often used by alarm guys and they leave them loose etc) also in the back of the car near the tail lights /under the left rear speaker etc. also check the main erath straps on the battery and the main earth strap for the engine

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...416&ed=true $100 start reserve $300 buy now 021433600 have more pics of it fitted up if needed http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...416&ed=true

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...130&ed=true $1 res 021433600

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...467&ed=true 021433600

nice . liked this also 27L rover SD1

start reserve $400 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...mp;id=367825106 021433600

and now look at it

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-367755176.htm

yes lucky . at least through a tyre/wheel under the car so it can only fall to that height

viscous cuts in and out by the amount of heat that is transfered through the water pump shaft, heats up the fluid/oil inside . and what happens is over time the fluild/oil leaks out then it slowly becomes useless

silver fox got 160rwkw out of his unrestricted M54b30 set up with more potenial if the intake manifold /afm is changed have seen guys on the net with similer results. even with a m20 set up i got 112rwkw out of my std e36 328i with headers and e36 325i with a chip just as a comparrison

do it cheapish HP you can get . people spend heaps on cams , manifolds , ecu chips , afm , etc etc all only gain you about 10-20kw at most when this can make 40-60kw more at the wheels easy

i agree , have seen plenty or renaults and pugs from that era all with stuffed trans

check the dash dimmer is not turned down , or sometimes they fail . also check the fuses and the battery terminals around the fuse box also the earth strap bolts are tight etc

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...826&ed=true

they are fine , mostly the same running gear as a sedan , coupe etc . less electrics than a coupe or sedan (simplier heater conytrols and some other stuff) normal things to look for a engine issues with over heating etc , oil leaks , diff whine , hood linning sagging etc . pretty much all the same issues that all teh e36's can have if not looked after. here's a nice one:) http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=367085021

last call before tard me

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=365615226 be quick

try unpluging the locking solinoids one at a time and fitting a new fuse each time

just though i would put this up here low k's 1995 318ti 5spd cheap runnabout new wof and reg good engine and gearbox ideal donar for a 3l m3 engine or 328i engine etc 021433600 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-367085021.htm

sounds more like the visvous clutch for the fan is stuffed . over heats when sitting then cools back down when moving faster. also the other thing on these bmw's is the electric aux ac fan on the front should also cut in at a certain temp there are 2 speeds and double temperature sensor on the side of the radiator. the slower speed works when the ac is switched on or if the temp goes over 91deg C then the higher speed cuts in when it goes over 99deg C , if it doesn't cut in at the 91deg C or when the ac is turned on the resistor thats mounted in front of the electric is probably no good and will need replacing or bypassing. but i think your main problem is the mech viscous clutch. but if you keep using it like this you might do damage to the engine "Wound down the window and could hear the fan engaging, as it should" is this electric fan or the viscous fan cutting in???. Double temperature switch part No.5 fan low speed resistor part no.6 viscous clutch part no.2

where are you based?? how are you getting cheap HP by sending your ecu off to some where ?? if its for chip etc better to get live remapping done on a dyno so you can see the before and after results sounds nice though . used to have a 99 540i touring , they go well cheers brent do you have pics??

hhmm ok maybe next cheapish thing is to do is drill through the boot lock (part 18) and pull it out bit by bit untill there is nothing left of it then grab the lock rod (part 14) and pull it. or try your best to move the sub box . is it the full width of the hole. you can also get at the bolts (PART 13) that hold the boot latch on the body part, if you have very long extensions wih a 10mm socket on the end of it , but will damage the plastic shut panel.

rust and failing heater controls are your biggest worries . most other mech and electrivcal probs are pretty easy to sort