BM WORLD

can help email [email protected]

yes just use most of the facelift wiring loom,sensors etc etc . you will need a 2.5L ecu (i have one) also 2.5L afm and inlet(and piping) and exhaust manifolds etc

i have the face lift guards and little panel that goes under the headlights

i second that . i had a 99 540iT it had a abs light issue .fault codes came up as faulty wheel sensor. turned out to be be dry/bad joints in the ABS control circuit board mounted to the abs pump . i had mine repaired by guy who specialises in doing car electronics . i still could drive the car around with out the control box on it . (just had no speedo) i have some earlier abs pump modules from 96 528i 95 740i 96 540i if your brothers car is a early type

faulty spark plug coil??

225/50-16" from memory and i think you could just do a pucture repair on the 4th it would be ok ,

i sort of agree here , but there are a few more mods needed to make a m50/52 engine fit into a e30 . headers have to be made , wiring , gearbox options etc etc. where as a m20 rebuild will bolt straight back in and can use all th e30 loom etc .. but yes i think the cost could be lower with a used m50 or m52 engine than rebuilding a m20 engine up , depends on how fussy you want to be and how many new or used bits you fit to the engine . and also how much of the fabricating you do yourself .

this is the one http://www.msportster.co.uk/detail.asp?cat=22&offset=48

yes 021433600

http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=232785913 some bbs centre caps for you

yea when are you going to fit that system to my car so i cam try it out cheers brent

"Then you wouldn't be any different than joe bloggs in his :puke: green/yellow e46 m3"

very good results now just replace that restrictive and heavy exhaust system and mufflers and you should get a little more . i think gavins e34 alpina B10 got about 142kw at the wheels , and thats with 10.5:1 pistons , alpina head work and cam , lighter crank etc ..

try www.ecu.co.nz they can wipe stuff out of the ecu's like ews , etc maybe they can do some of the other stuff

early model e34 have issues with the clusters , the capicators die with old age etc and corrode teh circuit board and cause shorts etc. maybe it has a fault in the cluster , i have spares you can try .

if you talk a 12volt plus wire and conect it from the battery positive terminal straight to the 10mm nut starter wire on the starter motor soliniod it should crank the engine over , if it just clanks teh soliniod then your starter motor is stuffed , if you put 12volt positive to the large 13mm nut on the soliniod (the one closest to the starter) it should spin the starter motor but not go forwards . also you could try , by passing the where the alarm wires break into the ignition circuit , mainly the heavy green one and the black one with yellow stripe .

i got mine from BM warehouse in hamilton . about $100+

good work , maybe this for your car. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C.../p-98178774.htm

have eagle F1 on our e34 , seam pretty good .

also another good reason not to own a automatic car , if you did that with manual you would just stall it , but the auto's just take off and quite people panic when it happens and push the gas pedal harder instead of the brake pedal like this one.

you can have mine for about $20k comes with the car

they light up red . and have some for sale

remove the glove box and its way up on the side of the heater box , will be the older anolog type . i have some if needed 021433600

has been done but there mods needed , oil drain from the head etc etc . lots of machining . talk to BM weapon on what he has odne to a m30 turbo guy on the www.mye28.com forum has done one with a turbo set up .

recheck the park /neutral switch thing , plug it back in and try again , or put a 2pin realy shorter box in place of the starter relay