elmarco

Any auto electrician should sell them. As will Transport Wholesale, BNT or even Mitre 10.

No idea about that particular product, but I have heard the factory module is around $500 ish (unless you can get one on Trademe). I had BMWorkshop do mine in the E46 with relays, and I think it was around $200 installed (I was too lazy to do it myself). The car will be looking for a specific current draw (or resistance) during its self monitoring - so wiring directly into the rear lamp circuit will throw an error (more bulbs than it is looking for). Jochen/Glenn/Hotwire will no doubt be able to tell you exactly how it works. I have also heard that the factory unit puts the car in trailer mode (holds gears longer etc) and switches off the parking sensors etc. Don't know how true this is though.

Don't think I could have put it better myself.... And as Hotwire says, at 100W you will start melting stuff like wiring etc. These look like more trouble than they are worth to me.

What are the LED lamps you have used? If they are Hella DuraLEDs you could try using the blue wire (from memory it's blue - it will be engraved on the back of the lamp) - the function was developed specifically to get around this problem by simulating the load of a bulb. It doesn't always work, but has fooled some systems into thinking they are bulbs. You are right in that wiring in another bulb or resistor to fool the system does defeat the purpose a bit. There are LED specific flashers available, but they only work with specific Hella LED lamps. As to if they work with the X5 I can't say - not sure what type of flasher it uses.

DHL are owned by Deutsche Post now (have been for the last few years).

Yeah how much? That looks stunning!

That's precisely what mine has as a spare - a 225/45/17. You might need to check that it does in fact fit though - mine is NZ New...

Isn't the standard fuel economy gauge a vacuum gauge?

The legal requirement for having Xenon headlamps includes a headlamp washer system, and automatic levelling. So, regardless of if the lamps themselves are OK, they are not legal until they have the washer and self levelling installed and certified (with an E mark). The only exceptions are SAE approved products which don't require the washers (or didn't last time I checked - which is why HID's are not used on motorcycles outside the US). Without these ancillary systems, you have a very good chance of blinding oncoming traffic as the light output from these lamps is so incredibly high. And I would expect a court summons if you are caught causing an accident by blinding someone.... They didn't make the rules for fun - they are there for the safety of others. While you can hide the ballasts, anyone who sees the lamps start will immediately know they are Xenon. I think the beam setters also give an indication on the light intensity - so you might find they get picked up there as well.

Totally badassed.

^^ What he said... Mine is a non-motorsport and has 2 of the things you have listed.

You need the correct ones for HID headlamps as the UV produced by the burners can damage normal PC. I wouldn't think there was a glass version - the whole industry had shifted towards polycarbonate lenses at that point (much simpler manufacturing, less expensive). However, the projector lens may be glass (which might be what she was referring to). Must admit I am surprised that the lens covers are replaceable - I am pretty sure mine are glued on (and this is standard with modern headlamps).

The Germans think of everything!!!

Does the E46 check for the fuel cap being in place?? I seem to remember hearing something like this a while back in the US (not specifically BMW related, but I wouldn't be all that surprised if it applied to these as well). Something about hydrocarbon emissions - same reason they use the vapour nozzle over the fuel pump filler.

If you are after suggestions, I reckon a Fear Factor fridge would turn a few heads....

E markings are certification markings. Normally an E with a number (like (E4)) in a circle - this will be moulded into or laser marked onto the base, and shows the item meets the legal requirements (the number designates the country that has certified them - 1 being Germany, 4 Netherlands, 17 Finland etc). Your headlamps will have them on either the lens or the housing, as will tyres, exhausts, brakes, seatbelts, airbags and other safety or legally mandated systems. If the lights are working now, it might not be the burner itself - it could be a ballast, computer, faulty of loose lead (they operate in the region of 20,000 volts at startup) or even a low battery (although you would probably have trouble starting it if this was the case)... Might be time to seek an expert opinion before shelling out mucho dinero. As for the lens cracks, they sound more like chemical attack to me - there shouldn't be enough heat in a 35W HID burner to damage them. Polycarbonate is extremely sensitive to chemicals and also yellows with UV exposure (HID emits very high levels of UV, as do crappy halogen bulbs - another good reason to get quality bulbs). Normally there is a clear coating on the lens to protect them, but if someone has used harsh chemicals trying to remove bugs or tar etc you may have a problem. If I remember correctly, these lamps are glued together - so changing them will be a pain in the arse. Might be worth trying Ray (HellBM) or Brent (Hartage535i or similar) to see if they have any spares. And yes, you may have to mortgage a kidney depending on what's wrong (which is why they are still a high priced OEM option after 15 or so years in the market and not standard equipment).

Yes, replace both at the same time if you can. I would try your local auto electrician, Transport Wholesale or BNT as well. And make sure that whatever you get has E markings on them.

If the level is fine, it sounds like the oil level sensor - which I believe is a common fault. I think you need to drain the oil to change them, so best done with an oil change. Mine actually does it intermittently as well, and I am just waiting for the next oil service....

I have heard that - he strikes me as a real charismatic kind of guy. I guess he has mellowed a bit in older age. Not sure I would have wanted to be on his wrong side when he was younger though.... Believe it or not, it didn't surprise me when he turned down a liver transplant because he preferred it to go to someone who really needed it. Sorry, back on topic....

Or as Chopper Read said "I haven't shot anybody since 1992, and even then I didn't do it". Long lost cousin?

Sounds like the sensor might be the external temperature sensor. I think they normally sit behind the passenger side fog lamp or headlamp. Someone else will be able to confirm. As for the noise, it could quite well be the A/C compressor. While the compressor may not be engaged the pulley at the front still spins when the engine is running - it is belt driven. Best get it checked - if it sounds that bad it could seize and bust the drive belt.

That's just the sh*t sandwich they have been handed as Josh said.... Hate to think of the sh*t we would be in if Helen Clark was still in charge. Not just the Police - don't forget about parking wardens. At least you tend to know when you are being nailed by the Police....

I really rate what you currently have. Wouldn't even be thinking of changing if it were mine....

Sweet Jeeezus!!!! Best looking E36 I have come across!

This is what mine did yesterday morning as well - word for word.... I was aware the battery was on the way out though (harder cranking it over recently etc). Replacement battery and all good to go.