JohnM575

Would these rub with 245 fronts and 275 rears (E46 M3)?

What brand and model of tyres, and how many mm of tread left?

I have 17" RE003 245's on my E36 325i - they are an impressive tyre for the price, however when I was looking for them in 19's for the M3 they were a lot more pricey in comparison to the highly rated Dunlop Sport Maxx's in the same size.

I'm keeping them sorry so I can run square all around...once I do something with the ride height as it is currently on stock springs and shocks.

I'm currently running Eagle F1's on the front (245/35R19) and Dunlop Sport Maxx (275/30R19) on the rear of my M3. The Eagle F1's came brand new with the set of 19" M3 wheels purchased hence the mix n match. Both so far have performed admirably in the dry and wet. Try shop around as much as possible for tyres. Beaurepaires quoted me $540 per tyre for the Sport Maxx's, Discount Tyres did them for $390 each fitted and balanced. More than enough tyre performance for the open roads!

I got those 18's off Tom, and also got a genuine set of 19's off one of the BMW buy/sell NZ facebook pages. 3 sets all up! Unfortunately they don't come up often hence why I snapped them up when I could.

Do it Tom!

Glad to hear you got a M3 after all!

Picking it up tomorrow. Church St had to do a few things to the car prior to selling it. New rotors and pads, new windscreen washer pump, new WOF, along with a few other things.

For E46 M3 rotors and pads?

The dealer just had to replace these on the M3 I purchased off them. Something like $1,800 for front rotors and pads before labour...ECS Tuning or Pelican Parts would be your best bet I imagine.

Thanks! I test drove this M3 on the weekend, along with the rough, white wrapped M3 at Fast4's which was some experience haha (salesman talked some nonsense!). When I first read this thread I was worried that the dealer had doubled up with two deposits going down on the one car when you said you had arranged an inspection too. Were you dealing with Craig also?

Will be interesting to see what the pre-purchase inspection says. On the surface it appears to be very tidy, so hopefully there are no hidden demons underneath.

Did you arrange this through Craig? I paid the deposit on the M3 to secure the car today, and I'm getting a pre purchase inspection at Bellar Motor Works on Friday...

Price for black MSport front bumper? Cheers.

As per the title, I was wondering if someone on here has an Z3 gear lever (and bushings) and ZHP 5 Speed gear knob. The gear change currently has a fair amount of "play", and the gear knob leather has worn through and is looking worse for wear and I am after a knob with a bit more weight to it. I understand the play may be due to wear and tear internally, but I am keen to see if the new lever reduces that sloppy feel as many people seem to report an improvement when changing the shifter bushings. Also I would be looking for install for the Z3 lever (or equivalent) if possible. HellBM? Anyone else stock these parts?

Cheers Paul. I do plan on doing the likes of sway bars, new shocks or full coilover setup, new wheel/tyre combo progressively. I am going to go with new camber arms on tuesday to restore the camber levels to oem specs (around -1.5-2.0deg) as it is the excessive camber which is most likely causing the inner arch rubbing, rather than the shocks being completely shot. Will also get them to address the toe in issue. Then hopefully I will be able to report back next week with some good news!

What made you assume the car has done 450k? It's done 139k, and has the majority of its service history (including manual conversion) at Team McMillan. The car has been in the family for over 13 years with all lady owners/drivers prior to myself. Suppose I could have always bought a Subaru that had gone to the moon and back with a big bore and chromes for 1/3 of the price and put a full Bilstein setup in that... Pretty sure I made the right choice. Can neither confirm or deny whether the shocks are shot or not. I assume they are original though. I have had the car fully loaded (5 people) since putting the new springs in on country roads and haven't bottomed out the shocks yet, so they must have a little life left in them. Of course it rubbed, but I am now confident this will be solved by installing the rear camber arms. If I feel the want/need to invest pretty seriously in the suspension in an old car, I will do it properly. But for the mean time, the spring change is a temporary "upgrade".I have no ambitions of trying to make this a track day car here. It's not built for it (no LSD, low hp, brakes would be fried after 1-2 laps etc). Where as, an M3 would be great for that sort of thing. I think most would struggle to argue that the handling has been negatively affected by putting in the new springs once the rear camber issue is sorted. I guess the best way to put it, is that I wanted a nice touring ride, rather than a race-inspired rock hard ride. Enlighten me?

Sorry, what I meant was that the 3 springs (Yes, linear rate) combine to provide a progessive rate in combination with the shock. Any brand recommendations? I did a quick TM search: D2, Hardrace and SHA have camber arms for E36/E46's. Unfamiliar with all of these brands so unsure if there is a big difference with quality/durability between the brands. Being a student just means I have to be thrifty Nop, stock shocks. I know I am in effect cutting a corner by not doing the full shock and spring combo at once and that will be addressed in due course. But for the mean time...

I ride and race ATV's, and over the years I have picked up a thing or two about suspension. Setting up compression, rebound, preload, spring rates etc . Having had a triple-rate Ohlins setup on my bike, it offers a progressive rate of travel (3 springs in 1 shock with different spring rates) which is a damn site better than a linear setup with one spring (rubbish oem suspension bikes are sold from the showroom floor with). A linear rate setup fails to find a happy medium between soaking up the small bumps while offering ample resistance from the larger forces. Same concept goes for a car. I didn't think 20mm at the rear was silly which is where the issue is occuring due to the excessive camber. As a short term fix, would you recommend putting the stock springs back in the rear? Mag & Turbo said the adjustment is now maxed out and cannot dial anymore negative camber out of it...So guess camber arm kit is really the only way of solving that issue. Rear camber should be -2 max 1.5 is better but the excessive camber you have is due to it being too low. Toe should be about 3 as indicated on the data sheet not 1.3 as it shows and the left and right toe need to be equal not 0.4 and 0.9 - this means you have more than twice the toe on the right compared to the left. Get the basics right and then start building from there -- It is a 1994 BMW 325i, and here is the labelling on the box that the springs came in.

Are you referring to a sheet Mag & Turbo are working off, or this printout? It sounds as if the current toe and camber readings could do with a bit of tweaking which may help the rubbing.

What wheel fitment do you have on your e36? Running coilovers? Tyre's weren't my choice. Yes they are sh*t, I won't hide from that fact at all. I just purchased the car last month off my sister, hence why they haven't been changed. She only used the car for round town city/suburb drivng and for that she couldn't justify putting top of the line rubber on it. Each to their own. I have also stated I was after function, not form. I want to be able to do big k's with this car, and improve it's handling a little better from stock. Hence, given my budget (univeristy student) I opted for the best progressive rate spring kit avaliable as a compromise from getting a full Bilstein or KW coilover kit. I think I have done a little better than getting Jamex rubbish or superlow king springs, where I'd be ripping off the sump on every little bump. I am NOT after a "hellaflush, stanced-out and slammed whip". My primary reason for the spring kit was to remove the wallowy/sofa-like handling, by which the springs have provided a noticeable improvement. The guys at Mag & Turbo are baffled somewhat that we haven't got to the bottom of the rubbing issue yet. Their f**k up, not mine. They are doing all the follow up work free of charge. Have you got any ball park figures from your toe/camber readings on your E36? Could pass it on to them on tuesday to see what adjustments they can do to try get on top of this once and for all...

Yes Mag & Turbo have did a wheel alignment on the day of install. Next tueday they are doing the 2nd wheel alignment as the springs have had time to "settle" in the past few weeks of driving. Attached are a few pictures to help out, including the wheel alignment printout. Anyone able to deduce much from the camber & toe readings? Would mag & turbo be able to make the rears stand up a little more when they re-do the alignment? Would that help the inside arch rubbing?

Hi all, So I have had the E36 lowered on B&G springs which offer a 50mm drop at the front and a 20mm drop in the rear. Mag & Turbo did the installation but I have had to take the car back there 3 times now to try remedy the problem with no luck! The car is booked in again for next week to try sort it. I emphasised before purchase that I did not ANY issues with rubbing as I am after function rather than form. In response they effectively "guaranteed" there would be no rubbing of any sort with this kit (even fully loaded). Rubbing is occuring at the rear on the inner arch, and also did a bit on the bumper, where they have trimed back some plastic. The front right also rubs at full lock, very minor but guess VTNZ will still pull you up for it...? Left front doesn't seem to be showing any rubbing whatsoever. Having looked under the each of the rear arches, it seems to appear that the guards are free of rubbing, and sidewall of the tyre does not show any signs of rubbing either. This is all happening without a loaded car on country roads. Once I have 1 or 2 mates in the car, it will do it in 40-50km/h zones on suburb/city streets over the slightest of bumps. Now, for those who have lowered e36's with either same or similar kits, have you experienced any problem with 225/50/16's ET37? What would you recommend Mag & Turbo/myself doing to sort this problem?

Sorry, I should have said, anyone had rubbing issues with the car being lowered only slightly? As you can probably see from the picture, it isn't the most aggressive drop seen on an e36 (20mm at the rear)...