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All sensor resistances are within tolerance too

Hi all. I have a 94 3.0 M3, with S50B30. Its been running well until last weekend, where i noticed the idle was a bit rougher than usual but still drove OK. I took the car to work today, and on the way home it decided it was sick of running OK, and started to bog down badly (like coming completely off the gas) under any load, yet it would rev out OK unless loaded. I moved it into the garage when i got home, it then decided not to start. I fired up DIS, and came up with code 17, camshaft position sensor phase detection not plausible. Obviously theres an issue with the "camshaft position sensor", but as the car has 3 sensors that monitor the camshaft (TDC in the middle front, and one for the intake and one for exhaust) i dont know which one has failed. I removed all of them, noted the intake sensor was really dirty so cleaned it, but although the car starts (after a bit of cranking) it runs like a dog when under load, and idles a bit rough. Has anyone had this before, and know which sensor it is? Dont really want to go out and buy all 3 sensors, at $100 a pop in order to narrow it down.

I like this more than a should. Well done.

ive never had to lock the waterpump on any of the bmws i have done the fan removal on. Just a decent sharp whack with a hammer has been enough to crack it, using the belt tension to hold the pump.

Cheers for the reply Andy. Quite a substantial difference then.

Being ignorant on E30s, whats the difference other than the engine (which will be pulled out for the swap anyway)? It says in the listing this is a Msport optioned car? Seems to me like a really good base for a toy. Looks real tidy inside and out, so you dont have to worry about spending too much fixing that up before you chuck the new engine in. Pretty high price though, but its been around a while, seller might go lower.

The merc ones are on a spring base (and break off with little pressure anyway).

I tend to PM them, and get replies pretty smartly.

KM now over 207,000KM, still in regular (every weekend) use. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=771514628 Keen to sell for new project, so make an offer if interested.

When my old e36 was converted to manual it had no bushes put in the linkages at all, was like changing gear in a pot of soup. Replaced all the bushes with OEM bushes, and it was as tight as new.

changed my wipers for some aeroblade style ones from ripco. Makes a hell of a difference being able to see in the rain.

no such thing as shift points moving. Itll be the play in the shifter bushes. New OEM bushes are cheap and will do the trick.

I really want a facelift 750i SWB with the motorsport pack. Possibility of that in NZ? Nil.

in regards to the shifter, did you replace all the bushings on the linkages themselves when you did the mounts? if not, thatll be where the movement is. plenty of DIY guides out there for doing it.

Ive met the new owner before, used to have a C36 AMG (i looked it when it was forsale), and has also owned a white E34 535i. Hopefully ill see this running around wellington soon.

my old 323i was converted to manual in my ownership, and it had the metal that you slot number 4 in the above pic into. unless you have an oddball you should be OK.

Better ratio diff would make it far more lively at low speeds, can see it being well worth it for the V12

Wow, that looks great. Hellrot is one of the best colours for an E36. GLWS!

sh*t, hes done it! I dont see it in the listing, is it certified?

Have you pulled your gear boot off to see if you still have the rubber boot and foam insulation in place? Someone could have removed the matting on the underside of the car too, in the trans tunnel. Over time it starts to sag, so people just tear it out. I havent noticed mine getting warm, but i have all boots and matting in place.

No first hand info, but i have some links that might help. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?836299-79-323i-M20B23-Timing-Specs http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=239545 https://sites.google.com/site/e21323i/Home Your timing mark isnt behind the pulley is it?

Says in the first post Andy, putting it into Park whilst driving. Looks like a damn tidy wagon, good to see it might go back on the road.

A few years ago, we were heading out south from CHCH, on the open road at 100kph. We end up behind this knob doing about 80-90kph, swerving around his lane a bit, so the first passing lane we get to we boost off past him, only to see why he was driving so sh*t. He was watching a portable DVD player, that he was holding with his thumbs in the middle of his steering wheel. I sh*t you not, crazy bastard. Too young back then to know about *555 etc, so we just made sure to put a lot of distance between us.

For a lot of items OEM is best, every time. Its either pay more once, or pay less 3-4 times.

Without knowing your chassis number this is the best i can come up with. Use this website with your chassis code (last 7 digits) to confirm these numbers are correct. http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=GE42&mospid=47508&btnr=33_1063&hg=33&fg=25 There are part numbers for both inner and outer boots. Euro Italian, Milland or you local dealer will be able to source/supply them. Sexy reply is sexy.