KwS

my old 323i was converted to manual in my ownership, and it had the metal that you slot number 4 in the above pic into. unless you have an oddball you should be OK.

Better ratio diff would make it far more lively at low speeds, can see it being well worth it for the V12

Wow, that looks great. Hellrot is one of the best colours for an E36. GLWS!

sh*t, hes done it! I dont see it in the listing, is it certified?

Have you pulled your gear boot off to see if you still have the rubber boot and foam insulation in place? Someone could have removed the matting on the underside of the car too, in the trans tunnel. Over time it starts to sag, so people just tear it out. I havent noticed mine getting warm, but i have all boots and matting in place.

No first hand info, but i have some links that might help. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?836299-79-323i-M20B23-Timing-Specs http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=239545 https://sites.google.com/site/e21323i/Home Your timing mark isnt behind the pulley is it?

Says in the first post Andy, putting it into Park whilst driving. Looks like a damn tidy wagon, good to see it might go back on the road.

A few years ago, we were heading out south from CHCH, on the open road at 100kph. We end up behind this knob doing about 80-90kph, swerving around his lane a bit, so the first passing lane we get to we boost off past him, only to see why he was driving so sh*t. He was watching a portable DVD player, that he was holding with his thumbs in the middle of his steering wheel. I sh*t you not, crazy bastard. Too young back then to know about *555 etc, so we just made sure to put a lot of distance between us.

For a lot of items OEM is best, every time. Its either pay more once, or pay less 3-4 times.

Without knowing your chassis number this is the best i can come up with. Use this website with your chassis code (last 7 digits) to confirm these numbers are correct. http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=GE42&mospid=47508&btnr=33_1063&hg=33&fg=25 There are part numbers for both inner and outer boots. Euro Italian, Milland or you local dealer will be able to source/supply them. Sexy reply is sexy.

Take the valve out, pretty easy, 3 hoses and an electrical connector. Should be fairly obvious looking into the connections if its blocked. Theres a few members handy with a spanner down there in Dunners. Im sure someone would help if you asked.

i dont have cruise I concur on motorbikes too, crazy/stupid bastards. I wish there was a way to police the use of motorbikes better.

would pay to talk to NZTA then, might be able to change the address or something.

might be able to get it in under SIV if it doesnt comply, but you'd be lucky. Needs to meet this criteria

i'd bet Lux Soap flakes will work wonders too, like it does on gross steering wheels.

man, wish those SA11s came in a fitment to suit my M3. The americans have them on E36s over there and they look awesome.

i had a cut and welded shifter assembly (shift rod and the main alloy arm) from a 4 banger on my old 323i, wouldnt recommend it. It was never perfect, would highly recommend tracking down a 6 cylinder shifter assembly. I eventually swapped them out, and it was much better.

Strangely, check the back (towards the engine) of the oil cooler. Mine was very dirty yet the front was clean. Still dont know where the previous owner had been driving!

Alright, youve done it now. My paint skills are called into action. Black is the shifter Blue is gear knob red is the boot. where it dips down over the shifter is where it is rolled in on its self. If i unroll this at all, there will be a section with no tricolour stitching. Trimming the bit inside the rolled section that is against where the shifter increases in size should allow me to move the boot down the shifter further.

mine is about 95-100 normal temp, 90 on the motorway and 105 when driving hard. A few things can alter the temps, including oil viscosity, ambient temps, and any blockages to oil cooler etc. My temps are more stable now since i cleaned the mud (!) out of my oil cooler.

i think the section thats unstitched on mine is a little longer, but it'd still bug me. damn OCD. maybe next weekend ill take a knife to it and make it look better.

Are drilled and/or slotted rotors worse for dust than standard rotors?

Whatever the pads on my M3 are at the moment are shockers for dust. Doesnt help i live up a hill which means every time i drive i spend a good 1-1.5KM on the brakes. Wheels are black within a couple of trips.

Nope, see, yours has a patch without tricolour stitching showing too. Fold that under like i have and youll have the same issue

I see someone had the same issue as i do here, just doesnt looks as good.