KwS

Thats a speaker/buzzer. E36 use the round 20 pin connector under the bonnet, but as yours is a newer Evo i dont know if you also have a traditional OBD2 connector in the car somewhere.

im amazed its not in a BMW museum or something. cant be too many 0KM M5s around. If i won powerball i'd totally buy it, and put the hardest KM on it that any E34 M5 has seen (although well maintained and cared for). Track day, drags, skids, everything. just to piss off the purists.

http://www.bmwarchive.org/vin/jm20068.pdf http://www.bmwarchive.org/vin/bmw-vin-decoder.html

Thats not normal, it is indeed a JDM car, and the build sheet even specifies a KM speedo. Does everything else match the specs (colour, options etc)?

Armstrong.... (as much as i hate them, they are the local Landy dealer).

Thats exactly where i got my cheap dodgy switch from. not worth the savings over a genuine one from the dealer IMO. Its a pretty crucial little device. Milland was good about sorting me with a refund and everything and its likely it was a bad batch, but i still wouldnt trust it. Most dealers should carry the switch in stock.

90% certainty it will be the brake switch on the pedal bracket. http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Brake_Switch/E36-Brake_Switch.htm REAL common, gives that exact error on the OBC and all the brake lights will be out. Had it on my old E36. Buy a genuine switch, not worth risking it with a dodgy aftermarket one like i did (switch was built so badly the housing would flex and cause the lights to turn off when braking. ended up having to buy a genuine one anyway). If you do change the switch, make sure you take note of the last part of the DIY guide in the article, it is the correct way to remove the switch without damaging the bracket.

http://www.m3portal.com/forum/m3e36_paintwork_interiors30.php http://www.m3portal.com/forum/m3e36_paintwork_interiors32.php http://www.bmwmregistry.com/model_faq.php?id=15#colors

dont think it needs to be SIV at that age, same with all the R32 GTRs and E36 M3s flooding the country. I think it just complies straight away now

and thats why we end up with so many cheap donor cars on TM for projects

Looks like a waste of time to me, its a f**k ugly Ford that no one bar some bogans care about. Just do some skids and take the kids to school in it.

Ive retrofitted an arm rest to both of my E36s, and IMO its one of the best, and cheapest mods to improve driving comfort. Both have been manual and have never had an issue with it getting in the way. Using the handbrake can be a little bit of a pain sometimes due to its position, but its a small price to pay for having somewhere to rest my arm. Its the perfect height and position for me, and i dont have an SSK either. I cant stand cars without arm rests, grinds my gears.

yeah it is. Been discussed on here a few times, and i think there is someone on here that knows the actual history. The Vin from carjam doesnt match the car. Dont know what the vin on the car is. http://www.bmwarchive.org/vin/as61682.pdf

didnt sound like "slagging off" to me, unless he is lying about the cars condition then it sounds rougher than one would expect for "mint" and completely justified in his comments.

Yes, its a commodore, and its only an example picture, not their car forsale. Needs to be burnt. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/interior/other/auction-745381192.htm

Despite the car being half heartedly for sale, im still working on it. Todays task was to finally fit the little bitch of an anti-rattle clip. Started with this, Did this, and instantly failed the intelligence test >_< and finally resorted to installing it correctly. I also degreased the only spot in the engine bay where there was oil, down the side of the engine where the old leaking oil cap had made a mess. New cap is holding oil in mint. No pics though as it wasnt easy to see in the first place, just makes me happier knowing its not so oily now. Went for a hoon, and yay for no chatter chatter rattle rattle going over bumps now. Finally.

1994 E36 M3 3.0 (NZ New, 206,xxx KM) S50B30 3L Engine 5 Speed manual Limited slip diff Arctic Silver M Cloth Interior Full OBC, dual climate, no sunroof, hifi audio, electric seats Freshly rebuilt vanos unit (using Beisan System kit) Recently serviced with new engine, gearbox and diff oils. Coolant is also new. Reg and Wof Dunlop tires with very good tread all around New gear and handbrake boots Armrest Recently pulled 179KW at the wheels on the STM Dyno, so a very healthy engine. Runs and drives well. Tidy original condition, with only minor modifications. Catalytic converters have been replaced with resonators, and a K&N Panel filter installed in the original airbox. Drilled rotors and braided brake lines fitted all round. Extensive service history from the previous owner (owned for 10 years), including the likes of all wheel bearings, multiple bushes (including RTAB and control arm), belts, spark plugs, coilpacks and new front Bilstein shocks. Most common wear items have been replaced, with receipts. Headlining and pillar trims have all been replaced with new padded black material, and the bolsters on drivers seat have been replaced with new alcantra. Very tidy inside. Paint is very tidy with some minor oxidisation on the boot (faint clouding but comes up nice with a polish) and a couple of small chips/pin dents here and there. Front lip has had a knock and lost some paint. All electrics work except the aircon, which although is gassed and the compressor engages does not blow cold. Previous owner said the compressor requires replacement, but i never use it so havent bothered. Heater works great (recently replaced heater control valve due to failure). This is a fantastic, honest, 20 year old german sports car. Its not perfect, but for its age and KM its a damn good example. Its been my weekend car, and i love driving it each and every time, but ive got my eyes on a different car so this needs to make way for that. $14,000 ONO.

ah that one..... congrats i guess

IIRC the idea of removing the viscous fan was that the AC fan in front of the radiator would come on and be used to cool the radiator. From what i remember when i looked into it the fan comes on as an "emergency backup" when the engine exceeds a certain temp (IE if the viscous fails, the idea is that the ac fan will still operate and hopefully stop the overheating), hence the need for a lower temp fan switch to turn it on sooner. The problem i see is that the AC fan isnt designed to be used as a main fan, and cant shift anywhere near as much air as the viscous fan can, and this leaves no overhead or backup in the event of a hot day, hard use or long periods of no airflow. Just fix the viscous fan, or if you really hate it that much fit a replacement electric fan in its place.

damn i love hellrot

Hahah, we sell the f**king things and i only found out how to properly pronounce it recently. Not a huge fan of the borbet wheels, but damn that refurb made an amazing difference.

I actually dont mind the style of tips, but yes they do need to be recessed and staggered a bit better. Although in saying that, i was a fan of the random 80s rectangle exhausts

HAHA yeah, what the crap? ANY item sold to a consumer is a covered. The type of goods makes no difference. They only exception is if you purchased it as a business, in which case the Fair Trading Act might come into it. http://www.consumer.org.nz/reports/consumer-guarantees-act/what-it-covers

Why not? He asked them to supply and fit a product. They did it wrong and refuse to offer a good solution. CGA should cover it?

IIRC sedan and coupe ones are different. Something to keep in mind.