KwS

I'd take the alpina in this case over an m5, because diesel and uncommon. I can only imagine what an alpina fiddled diesel pulls like. They do kinda target two very different markets though, so hard to just say "but that's m5 money". That interior/exterior scheme is lush.

Don't sell it. Not helpful, i know, but what a great looking car. You'll have maximum regerts selling that.

Looks nice. I wonder what the reserve is?

The list is looong, but getting shorter, one wad of cash at a time. Sucks it's usually S50 specific parts I need >_<

I dont like my chances but anyone have a good working spare S50 starter available? @HELLBM @BM WORLD ? RealOEM part number is 12411402990

Fuel trims afaik wont come into it as without O2 sensors it cant learn mixtures. Apparently adaptions were reset when the battery was disconnected. There is no obvious way in DIS to reset them (and cannot use INPA with this DME)

Did some more digging, and using DIS this is what I have come up with. Looks like i may have an air leak? Tried spraying some starting spray around various intake parts, but no change in idle.

its one of those ones that has the oil seperator under the intake, with hoses to various different places. I didnt take a real good look when i was under there (didnt know the car still had a misfire a the time) but didnt notice any obvious cracks in hoses etc. Did note that the unit was covered in old oil though. No obvious vacuum leaks but dont have a smoke tester here. Dont have what the normal readings should be for sensors, but coolant temp seems to read OK.

Thanks but yeah, no O2 sensors on this engine, not even the wiring for them. I did a quick CCV test by taking the oil cap off whilst the engine was running. Cap was easy to remove. idle didnt change, but there was a noticeable sucking noise present. Sign of CCV failure?

Hey guys So my M328i (full M3 conversion with S50B30) has a misfire at idle. Its bad enough to rock the car, but not enough to stall it. Sounds like i have a big grumpy lumpy cam. There is a strong "rich" smell from the exhaust at idle. The misfire is kinda cyclictical, like its a particular cylinder dropping every time. This has been happening since i got the car, and was originally partially masked with a higher idle (due to cam sensor and TPS connectors being swapped over, this has been fixed and idle now lower but misfire more pronounced) It drives well and pulls very hard, with no obvious signs of misfires etc when driving, just at idle. Cruise appears ok with no obvious surging. No codes in DME or VNC. Battery was disconnected for a few days Vanos is working OK. Holds within 2-3 degrees of the target in the DIS test (so not perfect, but OK). Has new solenoid seals and filter. Solenoids were cleaned and test OK. ICV has been cleaned and moves freely. Hoses appear OK, no obvious cracks. MAF has been cleaned, no change. Idle changes when MAF is disconnected but misfire still present; doesnt stall when disconnected. New coils. Spark plugs arent too old and although last time i checked were a bit dark, looked OK. New rocker cover gasket, coils are dry/no oil. Voltage is OK at idle (14+v). Grounds appear connected and OK Cam sensors give what appears to be normal readings in INPA. TPS gives nice smooth resistance reading across the range, measured from pins 2-3. Car runs much rougher when you disconnect TPS. CCV thing under intake is covered in old oil, but no obvious signs of leaks in hoses. This is on the list to be replaced. This is a South African spec engine, so no emission controls. No cats, no O2 sensors, no air pump, from factory. There might be a leak at the manifold flexi, but it shouldn't cause any issues due to no O2 sensors. I'm clearly missing something really obvious. Anyone have ideas of what i have missed?

As per title. I dont like my chances, but im after a front RH (drivers side) guard for my E36 coupe. Must be Boston Green, and must be in good condition.

Can do you some 20s? Came off my E36 so should fit E46. 20x8.5 - 72.6CB - ET35 - 225/30ZR20 20x9.5 - 72.6CB - ET40 - 235/30ZR20 Work VS-KF copies (Lenso Work) https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/508630486208816/

Do you have a photo on the car? Hard to work out which style wing it is

If the buyer doesnt want the boot spoiler, i'd be keen on it (sans boot lid).

Quite, unfortunately. Dual in dual out, in line with pipes.

Those prices wouldn't surprise me, BMW NZ seems to have some horrific parts pricing compared to the rest of the world. Its been cheaper for me to buy everything for my E36 from overseas, including freight (and GST if pinged), than to buy half of it locally. Its very disappointing.

As per title, im after an aftermarket rear muffler that will bolt onto the standard mid pipe on my E36 M3. Not bothered by design, prefer it wasnt horrifically loud but open to options. If you have one available please advise price.

Hi I have an issue with my starter motor on my S50B30 and need some ideas. Basically, it's not engaging first time. Turn the key and the starter will whirr into life, but won't engage the flywheel until you release the key (and obviously it doesn't turn over or start because you released the key but you can hear it engage). Turn the key again and it'll start happily. Is this an issue anyone has had before here? Searching didn't give much help, and S50 starters are expensive and rare here so reluctant to just replace it. If I do have to replace it, does an M50 or M52 starter fit and work?

There's one on the first page, but thats all I have as the car hasn't left the garage with them on yet. This is them currently, with all new rubber.

BMW remote keys have a reputation for the rubber buttons wearing out. Thankfully it's not that hard to give them a spruce up. The rubber buttons on the remote go soft and wear out from repeated use and age. This makes them hard to press, ugly and sometimes if they go sticky, unpleasant to touch. Both of the keys that came with the car look the same. The Lock button is just sticky mush that doesn't actually respond unless you mash your finger inside the rubber, and all the diagrams have worn off. Start by accessing the screws on the back of the housing. If it's still there, there will be a small panel covering them that just pops off Remove the screws and the back will come off. This is also a good time to change the batteries if they are low. CR1220 x2. The guts of the remote are a press fit into the housing. Gently dig it out of the housing and put to one side. Now you can see the horror. The mashed up rubber. Also note in the above photo, the black thing at the top of the key with writing on it, that is the EWS transponder chip. These don't tend to be held in with anything, and will take any opportunity to fall out and piss off somewhere hard to find it again. Take it out and put it somewhere safe. Don't lose it or its a new key plus coding. I purchased a couple of these "Replacement Remote Key Fob Case Shell 3 Buttons Fit For Bmw E38 E39 E36 Black" from Ebay. There are some different variations depending on what sort of key you have. The ones I bought have the provision for a red light to flash through the housing. Unfortunately my older style keys don't have the light, it's where the transponder lives, so I had to cut that off the new button pads. This did need further trimming to fit the EWS chip in snuggly. The old button pad is held in by being moulded through small notches in the key housing. You can push the old rubber pads out from the front, but if they are still stuck in there you may need to cut around the edges to help it along. The replacement button pad pushes in from the back of the housing. This took a lot of trimming to fit the transponder chip in, and also to fit a capacitor that sticks out on the circuit board. I had to trim along the orange line to give it space, or it would push the Lock button outwards I reassembled the key, and tested. The buttons are much easier to press now and work reliably. The key looks and feels nicer. The fit isn't perfect, and the buttons don't quite sit flush, but I'm hoping as they wear in a bit it will level out. Over all though, for the $1.09 per button pad, it's a steal and such an easy way to give it new life. Sometimes it's the small things that are the best.

Parts are arriving almost constantly, so it was time to start cracking on fixing my BMW. It's been a month now, since I obtained the M328i, and it's spent 98% of that time in the garage in bits. I've driven it home, to and from work once, and that's as far as its been in my ownership. Unfortunately the list of failures just kept getting bigger for those first couple of weeks, but now I feel I'm almost on top of the list and it isn't growing. Parts from all over the world, mainly The States, have arrived, with more still en route now. I decided to start with work under the car, as I needed to get new tires on the Style 24 wheels, so the car would be up on the QuickJacks, and it made sense. The main work I needed to do was to replace all the bushing in the shifter assembly, as there was far too much play when in gear, and much like Tess, it was like trying to row in a bucket of porridge. This is work I carried out on my first BMW when I had it converted to manual, and they didn't put any bushing in at the time. The shifter shaft seal was also leaking, making a hell of a mess, and accelerating the degradation of rubber bushes etc. The other job whilst there is to replace the drive shaft flex disk, or Giubo (usually pronounced Gwee-Boh, but apparently meant to be pronounced Joo-Boh). I noticed this was badly cracked when I had the car over the pit at work, so ordered a replacement. The drive shaft needs to be dropped to make accessing the shifter bushes easier, so it's a good time to do it. The first step once the car was in the air, was to drop the exhaust mid section. It's not hard to drop, just four flanges to undo, but its damn heavy. It also turns out one of the front flanges has been leaking, because one flange had a crushed flat gasket and lots of sealant, the other flange had no gasket, just gasket goop. With the exhaust section down, there is a heat shield that needs to be removed. It has six screws holding it in. To drop the drive shaft first you must loosen off the nuts holding the center bearing as this will need to be lowered later, and remove the cross brace in the bottom of the above photo. I marked the two flanges with a paint pen to help align them again later, and then went in with the ugga dugga gun to spin off the bolts holding the flanges to the flex disk. These are 18mm nuts and bolts. Turns out I didn't even have an 18mm spanner (most socket and spanner sets skip 18mm as its uncommon), so I had to rush out and buy one. Once all the bolts are out, remove the two nuts holding the center bearing in and then the drive shaft can be lowered out of the way. The Giubo was pretty shocking. It even had chunks missing. Compared to the new one With the shaft out I had access to the shifter assembly. I don't have photos of this in place because it was very messy and a real pain to get out. I had issues getting the rear bushing, and the "bastard" clip out, but there are lots of tutorials online on how to get them out. Once on the bench it was obvious why there was so much play. There were no plastic washers (which take up slack) where the green arrow points, and the ones with the orange arrow were worn paper thin. The main joint usually has a foam insert in it to increase resistance to movement. This had absorbed oil from the leaking selector shaft seal and turned to mush This bush which supports the main shifter arm had gone soft and worn out I stripped all the parts down and gave them a clean. I first replaced the shifter "bearing". The old one had worn and gone brittle. I pressed out the old arm bush and fit the replacement On went the new yellow plastic washers. A new main joint was obtained also. This comes with the new foam insert. This is an updated design that actually does away with the plastic washers on this end of the shift rod. Interestingly it's also made of an alloy and significantly lighter than the old steel one. You can see on the new one there is a built in sleeve that takes up the space where the washers would have been on the old one One tip I will say, is DO NOT REMOVE the retaining clip on the joint. It's a real prick to get back into place, and impossible to put on once the joint is in the car. Instead, slip the ring up the joint so it exposes the hole for the retaining pin. Move the ring to where the green line is. Once the retaining pin is in place, this allows you to easily push the ring back into place to lock the pin in. Before I could refit the shifter assembly, I needed to tackle the horribly leaking selector seal. This is a very common issue, and other than bad access, not a hard job to fix. I gave the area a quick clean to expose the old seal. The rubber was hard as a rock and I couldn't get a screwdriver or a pick into it, so no wonder it was leaking. I ended up using the recommended alternate option, instead of removing the old seal (which was proving hard), drift the old seal further into the bore and then install the new seal in front of it. Use a 15mm deep socket to install the seal, as it's a perfect fit on the seals outer edge. With the seal in, I reinstalled the shifter assembly. A quick test shows its lovely and notchy in its feel, with minimal movement in gear. Can't wait to drive with it. Now I needed to install the new Giubo and reinstall the drive shaft. This is bit of a shitty job, due to limited space for ratchets and spanners, but fairly straight forward. One major thing to keep in mind is to ensure the arrows point toward the flange that the bolt attaches to. You can just make out the small arrow in the below photo. The green arrow is pointing both to it, and in the direction its pointing in. The green line is where the flange should be that the bolt goes through. Once all the bolts are in, all the nuts are on and lightly nipped up, I torqued all the bolts up (per flange. Start with the three bolts on one flange and then do the other three) to the required 115NM. This is a lot of torque when lying on a rolling creeper with limited room! I torqued them all up, and then did a quick pass of all bolts again to make sure they were all locked in nice and tight. Then it was a matter of refitting the center bearing (remembering to preload the center bearing 5mm to the front of the car), rear brace and heat shield. I still need to refit the exhaust, but I'm waiting on new gaskets, which should hopefully show up early next week. As an aside, I also replaced the fuel filter whilst under the car today. It was too hard to get good photos under there of it, so no good guide (and there are heaps out there already), but it's interesting to note the old one was either the original filter, or hadn't been replaced in a long time. There was no obvious date stamp on it, but the label on the filter is old enough that I can't even find a matching photo online. Even if it isn't really that old, no harm in knowing it has a new one in there now. I'm getting closer to having the car back on the road. Unfortunately before I can take it for another hoon I need to remove the valve cover and replace the gasket as I found out the other day it's hemorrhaging oil down the back corner. This means I may as well rebuild the Vanos whilst I'm in there. Yay.

Yeah its one of the guys on here, used to have a lovely Daytona or Techno M3. I have all the seals, tools etc to do the vanos rebuild, and having done it before i know what im in for, I just cant be bothered lol. I need to finish the work im doing under the car first, and then ill actually be able to reach the engine bay. If i buy that one, i'll be stuck with a vanos unit that owes me money, that i too cant sell. Found the rocker cover gasket is hemorrhaging oil down the back corner, which pisses me off, since the head work was done not long ago. I have a new gasket, but was hoping to actually drive the car for a bit before having to replace it.

If she pushes the budget to 6k you can get a Swift Sport for that, and they are a hell of a lot of fun to drive, easy to drive, and brutally reliable. So many of these other cars recommended are terrible options unless you're a sucket for punishment.

Having seen first hand what the Haldex system on an S3 can do, there is no way a FWD could corner quite the same. Dismissing AWD and FWD because "RWD is just better" is ignorant.

Oh and the *GT cars have always been f**k ugly ?