bravo

thanks stz. I didn't mean your plate idea bb, I meant was the price for a new plate idea, or was it just the cost to get my current plate euro-ised. And as my current plate is not personalised, I can think of better places to spend $250.

Why thankyou. Here's another then for an ill bimmer

Is that for a new plate idea, or to convert your current plate to a europlate?

Cheers, should be able to do it myself then.

I was originally going to get my bottlecaps painted in high-gloss white and then surprise everyone with the finished result, but I tried it in photoshop and had second thoughts due to the fact it made them look smaller, but looking at the photo again, I am still undecided. So here's my photo, and please ignore the missing front valance.

You twisted my arm. here you go

and I just realised that all the rest have the plate showing, so until I can be arsed walking up the stairs to my PC with photoshop on it, that'll have to do. Coz right now I am at the laptop on the deck in the sun with a beer and there's no way I'm gonna do it at the moment.

And then bottlecaps the day I put them on and as they are now until next week. Edit: you can see the missing front valance in this photo too - oops.

I cannot post any current pics as the front valance is missing and so the car looks gay - like I'm trying to be a try-hard boyracer and drive around with no front valance so it looks like I'm getting a new kit made or intercooler installed. But I do have some of it the week I bought it complete with steelies and hubcaps for your viewing displeasure. 1:

What tips are those sparkle - they are pretty much exactly what I had in mind for the 3-er. Or are they just generic? Also, for someone who knows f all about exhaust tips, did you get them put on at an exhuast place, or could someone like me do it with a bit of basic welding skillz.

No, but now all someone has to do is run yours and then start in a 300m radius

The plan for the rear spoiler is the standard bootlip spoiler painted to match the car. Unfortunately I have to paint it and mount it (ie cut holes in the boot lid) to see what it looks like, and by then it's too late. I might leave that bit if I see another car and don't like it, but it makes sense to get the spoiler painted at the same time as the front valance to save costs (the old one was damaged, so I got a secondhand one which needs painting.) Anyone got pics of similar colour car with spoiler as described? Also, I was originally going to paint my bottlecaps white, but after photoshopping it, it makes them look smaller, and they are small enough as it is, so prob leave them as is. But I will release pics of my other mod to them next week all things being equal.

These are the first pics I've really put up of my ride - I am building it up to a basic standard before I do. Still need to finish rear spoiler, front valance, bottlecap mod and sounds before I am willing to post pics. These things will happen over the next month or two as the front valance and erar spoiler need painting, I am still waiting on something for the bottlecaps (should have next week and will post pics of those then), and need to buy an amp and some new front components for the sounds.

One more:

But to get an idea of the diff betwteen the old ones...

Reckon they could be a touch darker though esp when in direct sunlight like here:

Bought Gus's old tails for what I consider a pretty good price, esp considering the fast delivery - thanks again mate. Put them in, and promised pics, so here goes. In shade looks like this: Which is phat...

None taken, and I kinda agree, but was just puttin ideas out.My good ideas I'm keeping to myself.

The click from the aerial is the realy. So this means everything is connected properly. it is there fore one of two things. Most likely a fuse (even thought the relay clciks, the fuse is on the motor power line - the relay will still click if the fuse is blown as the power to control the relay comes from your head deck, not the main power line. If all fuses are OK, then it is the motor. if you replace the fuse and then the motor starts whirring, but no aerial movement, then it is the mast broken aswell. The fusebox is under the bonnet at the top right as you look at the front of the car.

No you'd better not Marcel - that took me ages to do, and I had to look the odd word up (i.e. I cheated a little bit when I got really stuck)

Turboed with blow off valve?

Or if you have a lowered car

What about this?

You will notice that the WOF thing says what you can and can't have and how they must work - this does restrict their operation whilst driving in some cases PLUS the new rules comin' in on the 27th Feb are road rules not WOF rules and they DO restrict their use. Driving lights are differnt to fogs and different yet again to headlights. Read and read again, and then read sic's thread re: neons in the appearance section for yet more info.

I'll get it right yet - the stuff I use is called priceless. Haven't been to the red shed yet, but when I do I'll look out for that perfection "sh*t"