bravo

Yeah, it's a grey area in that they have to guarantee the car whether it's a written waranty or not for anything that breaks that is considered a fault with the car when it is pretty new, otherwise you could have car makers making sh*t cars that only last a week and telling you to go f yourself when it breaks. Extended waranties, or waranties that go outside of the basic guarantees prescribed by law are something quite different, and so can be voided as you say. So it depends what breaks, when and why. It is of course, just safer not to try and test the rules, but they can't just tell you to piss of because you changed your muffler. Insurance companies are different as they are not guaranteeing a product they made, but insuring you against risk. Therefore they can stipulate the terms of that insurance.

Doesn't matter what the booklet says, they can't remove any rights given by the consumer guarantees act. Its like computer manufacturers who say you void the waranty if you open the back - its BS, as long as you can prove that you in no way contributed to the fault, then they still have to honour the waranty. BMW's will be the same - racing conditions is an exception though, as that is not the purpose for which the car is sold, and they cannot guarantee the cars fitness for this purpose, and the added wear and tear affects the whole car, not just a small component. But simply adding aftermarket parts legally can't void the entire waranty, only parts affected directly or indirectly by the parts you installed.

...and m325i shows that he does in fact have a sense of humour - nice one.

More likely you could get them installed without voiding the waranty, but unless you are a BMW approved mechanic or body shop etc, you prob can't install them yourself. But even if you get other non-ACS parts installed, before they could void your waranty, they would have to prove that the parts you installed caused the problem you are claiming for. I.e. if you put in an K&N CAI, and then the left rear wheel falls off, they can't say they won't fix it under waranty because you voided your waranty by installing a non-approved air intake. Consumer Guarantees Act still applies.

That would be my personal take on it i.e. not so won't advertise it as such, and also, the logo would have to be printed, not just cut vinyl, so that could be a downside unless you got a clear protective layer over it. But, I must admit would look good. Oh, and thank you everyone for the positive comments - I've had a couple from people who have seen them in the flesh too. Makes me glad I put the effort in to do it properly.

Yup - 6yo CC shots on NYE 2004/2005 = about half an inch from being skooled like sparkle. Didn't they have problems with the original coke eating through the storage containers? or is that just another urban myth? I was told that was why they kept it in glass bottles instead of going to cans or something.

I think I'm gonna have to join the world of console gaming... The graphics look the shizz.

That crap about rotting your insides is BS. Stomach acid is much more powerful than coke. You know the old story about putting a dirty penny in a glasss of coke and it's shiny the next day, well in the same time, in a glass of stomach acid, half the penny dissolves away. Also, that was the old coke. The new stuff doesn't do sh*t. And finally, apart from the odd JD's & coke, I don't touch the stuff - terrible tasting sh*t. Besides Whiskey is better with lemon and/or dry, or water if you're hard. CC & dry - still feeling the effects of last nights ones :puke:

As I said in your ride thread - colour doesn't do it for me, but I think that the construction and fit is fantastic.

Not too sure about the colour, but the finish looks pretty good, and the fit - perfect! I need to learn how to do that.

I wanna race the Nissan Cedric lol

I know! - I'd buy it, but 1) I don't want to go to Welly to do it. 2) I haven't even broken in my 320 yet - I've only done 3000 kms in her since I bought her, so it's to early to "upgrade". Looks like a good deal unless the engine is shagged. Lowish kms too.

Found one.

My old VK was the same - you'd lose steering at around 180ish - 200. Shite aerodynamics.

f**k, didn't think about that.Mod Number two - remove silicon... Ah, doesn't matter - I'm mates with my tyre guy - we go boating and sh*t. He puts up with alot from me already - I'm sure he can deal with it. I'll just have to take the wheels and centre caps off myself in his workshop before he changes the tyres and balances everything.

The rules are pretty lax around here, but you just crossed a line.f**k off dickhead.

I took one of them on the car, but since I was just using my phone cam, and bad light at this time of night, it didn't come out. I will try to grab the digicam from work tomorrow so you cansee how phat my ride is with my new centrecaps. I also have a couple more boring pics of me putting them in if anyone wants. Apart from arseing about at the signwriters, and the cost of the logos, total cost was 2 or maybe 2.5 hours of my time removing wheels etc. plus some silicone and some jar lids I had already. if anyone wants details of the screw jars so they can buy some, just PM me. Next mod is either painting the wheels white, or getting new chrome valve caps or chroming the wheel nuts. I'll post pics when I decide what and when I'm doing it all. Comments welcome - I hope you all like them.

Another:

And another:

And then you're done! One thing I forgot to mention was that you need vinyl logos as paper etc will just wash off when you wash your car, but properly stuck on vinyl should last for ages. Anyway, I suppose you want finished pics now? OK here they are:

You then put them on your wheels. Push them into the hub from the back of the wheel until they butt up against the lip at the front of the wheel which holds the old centrecap clips in place. This stops it falling out the front of the wheel while you are moving. It is a tight fit, and takes a little bit to get them lined up right, but I did each one in about 60 seconds each. Even though they fit tight, I wanted added security, so I put a ring of silicone on the inside to help hold them in place:

Then stick the vinyl sticker on your jar lids - not too hard. Line them up, then press from the centre outwards to exepl any air, then remove the application strip (sticky thing on the front so you don't have to touch the backs) and then apply hot air from a hairdryer whilst pressing firmly to set them properly like this:

Note: when sanding underside smooth, it is just for tidyness - no need to spend ages. Be careful not to mark up the top of the lid as it needs to stay shiny for the next step. I now needed to put a BMW logo on the new centrecaps, so I went for a wander down to the local sginwriters/printers and had a wee yarn. the options were: print the logo onto vinyl, or use three layers of vinyl in white black and blue to get the desired result. I went with the second option as I was afraid the printing might wear off eventually. They quoted me $60 for four, so I asked how much for 8? answer was $80 (both plus GST), so I offered to pay $80 all up inc. GST for 8 and they agreed. This prices the logos at $10 per wheel, and gives me spares if they ever fall off, or if I f**ked it up putting them on. Not exactly cheap, but this is the most expensive part and you might be able to negotiate a cheaper rate with your local signwriter. and at a total cost for my set of wheels of $40, not too bad considering the difference they make, plus extra sets will be cheaper now the setup cost is done. I supplied them the logo for their computer so I knew it would be right. Anyone who wants it, it is a large scale, small file size GIF so I can email it. I got my logos made with the black circle at 54mm and the wihite border around it 1mm thick to equal the total 55mm. But because the hubs have a small lip, only 54mm is visible, so you could go with an outside diameter of 54mm and the black circle at 53mm. In my case, they look sweet, so no worries. Anyway, here they are:

After:

Now you can use any plastic for your centrecaps, but you will have to buy a holesaw with a 54mm inside diameter (so prob a 56mm) and then spend ages filing etc, so f**k that - just buy some screws. I was going to do this till I discovered the jar lid idea. Now, the lid is slightly too big, so it needs to flex a little to fit in (which is good as it makes a tight fit and bulges out smoothly in a most pleasing way). In order to make it flex evenly, you have to remove the threaded part of the lid. You could cut it off with a stanley knife, but I just used tinsnips and then sanded smooth with a bit of 180 grit. Before: