bravo

Fill out this form at marketing.org.nz to remove yourself from phone lists. Free service.

It's to cover the wages of the person on the phone for the time they spend arguing with people as to why the fees are so high. The higher the fees, the longer the argument = the higher the fee.....

It's ok if there is no tread outside the guards. One good reason for some stretch!

This month's Claissic Car (August). There's a fairly good article on e36 m3's. bimmersport got a mention as a good place to go for advice. Top stuff!

The most cost effective route would have to be fair go or the disputes tribunal. You may not succeed, but it won't cost you much. As others have said copyright law is complex and an expensive specialist would be the way to go if you were going to pay someone. Out of interest I did some reading on intellectual property and copyright law last night. Read some best practice stuff and some applicable case law (Henkel KgaA v Holdfast Manufacturing Ltd etc for the law students and lawyers out there). Very complex! Interesting though.

No, they are identical. Spring ratings, strut sizes, brakes and other things are different, but the shells and bodies are exactly the same.

You don't even have to have a spare. My spare is a 14" bottlecap non-derectional 195/65/14. The rest of the rims are 17" directional 205/45/17. No problem. The above comments about the only requirement of a spare tire is that it is secure are correct. Item 16 in the Tyre section of the WOF manual here. If you were to put it on the car, as long as it did not contribute to any accident, you'd be fine. You are allowed to drive on space savers, but you will not pass a WOF with one fitted. They are intended as a temporary "get you home" solution.

HB bro! bimmersport says - get drunk get crunk get fuuucked up!

Houndstooth sport seats.... ...bastard!

Lol - love the last one Atta! When your sister bakes you a bmw emblem birthday cake and you're 27 years old! (And you secretly think it's badass). When you comment (jokingly) from the next room that you knew that the car on tv was an e46 from the sound of its horn, but everyone in the room actually believes you (happened last night). When local mechanics ring YOU to ask a BMW related question (true story).

HB man. You frog-fondling freak!

You should get the lawyer to look over the sale and purchase agreement BEFORE you go to the auction. This is because if it hits reserve and you win, it's an unconditional sale (usually). The reasons for holding an auction are usually: 1/ Because the property is perceived as desirable and the auction process will allow people to get emotionally attached and offer more than they would when calm, and in the sterile environment of their office. 2/ Because the vendor wants an unconditional sale without having to wait for the purchaser to sell their existing home (to bid an the auction you need pre-approved finance). 3/ It's a forced sale and the bank or whomever has decided they need the money quickly regardless of whether that equals a lesser amount. Only option 3 really lets you grab a bargain. If the above situations do not apply, a vendor would usually be advised not to use the auction process as it will not benefit them. Have a property lawyer look over the title and LIM for any issues (covenants, consent notices, easements, caveats, limitations, leases, permits, etc). Spend some time on the property and in the house if you can. Definitely talk to the neighbours. Several hours at different times of the day. That way you find out the sorts of things you can't really tell from a quick visit - like the fact that the 5:15am Airbus from Toronto flies over the house in a southerly. Besides, if you hate your prospective neighbours after talking to them for 5 mins about the house you may be buying - trust me, you want to find another house. Get a building inspection, and/or an engineering inspection. These cost a few hundred dollars (or more on larger properties), but this equates to less than 1% of the purchase price and will show up any issues with the house (leaky building, major electrical repairs needed, etc) and the property (instability, poor drainage, faulty septic tank, etc) and usually at the same time you can have the boundaries checked if they are not obvious. nothing like thinking you owned down to the river and then find out a month later that in fact there's public access across your lawn along an esplanade reserve that was not obvious from the start. Or that your neighbour owns half your backyard as the fence was built in the wrong place. Trust me, it happens alot - This morning I showed a lady where her boundary was so she could plant a hedge and it was 2.5m closer to the house than she thought. PM me the CT number or Lot and DP number if you want. I won't be able to do much from here, but I can check over the title for you. No charge.

There you go - fixed, but we've lost the restriction on the for sale forums. Will have a go at sorting that another time. You should all have the gallery working now too I think.

We have a NAS hard drive. Backed up daily by script (automatic). Swapped weekly with a mirror and taken home, so at all times there is an off-site backup with at most, a week's data on it.

Don't put bigger fuses in if you have a problem like this, people! The fuse is rated for two purposes - to protect your electrics if there is a problem like a short, and more importantly to blow when the circuit is overloaded. This second one is the important one. If you put in a fuse that is too large, instead of the fuse blowing, the weakest link "blows" instead - the wiring in the circuit. Which will then catch fire and you'll lose your entire car. The insurance company are unlikely to pay out on a car fire if the at-fault circuit has been fused with a fuse higher than the manufacturers rating. Fuses are there for a reason.

That's a great idea. I would've had one you can have, but now you've got me scheming. Sorry.

Search. This has been answered several times before with detailed insructions. When you find one post in it and I'll pin it. (I was going to say make it sticky, but that sounded wrong...)

I secretly <3 Dakar yellow m3's. The boot-lip spoilers look fab! Good work.

Do you? Do you REALLY?

We're not sure why it's doing it. I spent about 4 hours trying to suss it the other day and only managed to break part of the backend of the home page (that's now fixed), so we're giving it a break and will have another go at some stage soon.

Apparently only one resident wants it changed - a Mr. J R Payne. So it seems they are suffering a wee bit of Muff Payne.... I like Beaver Rd too Simon. A few years ago an AKLD radio station got some people to hitchhike into the studio butt-naked from Beaver Rd. I lol'd.

Usually you have to press a button before the ph will accept a voice command. Only 1 button compared to many, but you still have to look at/for the ph to push the button.

e36's get slightly better economy in the larger engined cars due to the 24 valve engines and VANOS (variable valve timing). The smaller engined cars aren't hugely different due to the extra weight in an e36. e30's have plentiful parts at fairly reasonable prices and love DIY. e30's are the DIY king of bmw's. Great cars to fix and work on yourself. e36 are ok for DIY too, but are on the cusp of the newer technology that starts to ruile out much DIY, so not as good as e30's in that respect. e36's have a superior chassis to e30, so handle better out of the box, but e30's offer a more tactile driving experience, and with some good handling mods handle fantastically (they handle fairly well stock, but really benefit from the right upgrades). e36's have a more luxurious interior, but they are quite ugly inside with no character. e30's are quintessential 80's inside and out. External looks are very much subjective. I think e36's look like fat, lazy slugs. Others think they look taut and sleek. stock e30's (esp f/l) can look very ugly too! But that's all opinion. If it were me I'd get a good e30 vs a tired e36, but it's up to you at the end of the day.

Meh, finding the button to activate the handsfree, looking for the contact you plan to dial, dialling a number, checking the caller ID first, or looking for your bluetooth headset and putting it on is just as bad. None of which the proposed law would address. I use my ph for voice calls all the time in the car. Often its the only time I have free to make certain lengthy calls. I'll just be buying a bluetooth headset and nothing will change. In other words, unless its an outright ban, all its going to do is cost people money to comply with the law, but not fix the perceived problem. As the article says, texting and driving is a no-brainer. Banning cellphone use will not address the problem unless its a total ban.

It's only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. Right now with the economy the way it is, you won't sell it for a"good price" as there are plenty of people out there desperate to sell and willing to lower their price below yours. Plenty of e36 m3's have changed hands at around $15k and up lately. Whether they were in better or worse condition than yours I don't know, but if you want to sell you'll have to lower your price to what people are willing to pay. If you don't mind hanging on to it, wait and hope that the market is rejuvenated as the economy improves (which it should do, but no-one has a crystal ball).