bravo

Crap. Bear with me.

Cool.

Try now Brian. I'm not sure if it will restore all recent posts, or just since new ones I fixed it (hence why you were able to see that one a few mins ago when I was changing the settings.)

That's because you're in the admin group which wasn't affected by the For Sale forum changes.

Turn's out it's my fault. Thanks for the ph call Brian as it got me thinking. When I rehashed the usergroups to require a minimum number of posts to contribute to For Sale, I didn't realise that the new members group I created wouldn't have access to features on the homepage. I'm playing with the forum integration settings now. Should be fixed in 5-10 mins. Can someone post back here once you notice it's working again? Thanks. EDIT - Try now, should be fixed.

Depends on your board settings. You can change the number of posts per page, so you obviously have set more per page.

Why'd you do that???

Me in the yellow jacket after climbing onto the easiest one of the day. Was on the rocks, but just sitting on it's keel (hence why it is leaning over). Am just about to receive a pair of pliers to undo the halyard so we can tip it over to float it off. This photo made the papers - bling.

The BMW AFM's are fairly well designed (based on anecdotal evidence on dyno runs with and without an AFM). Aftermarket (eg K&N) panel filters free things up somewhat. The gains realised with a pod filter are usually negated by extra heat in the intake charge (often they give worse performance than a stock system). A properly designed cold air intake with pod filter can give small gains. Some motors respond to changes in the throttle body and intake manifold. Many of the claims are unjustified, or subjective, and it depends on your motor. There is some evidence to suggest that there is room for improvement here, but it's a bit of try it and see. Best option on a budget bang for buck is a good quality aftermarket panel filter.

If it's just surface rust/oxidisation, get one of those wire brushes for on the end of a drill - brush back to bare metal, and use any metal primer. Won't last forever, but will last a long enough time.

Yeah but you would have only biffed the servo and the cable. All the other bits that make it go are a bit trickier to get out.

f**k you Tony you f**king westy. I'm jealous. It's actually scary how well everything fits. How much of an issue was getting the dash stuff sorted?

And there's always this one

pfft new brakes are for pussys. It was more exciting when they were crap! Nah, good stuff man. Giving me the motivation I need to do the odds and ends on my car I need to to get it out for a thrash again.

Perfectly legal. Someone has probably removed the bulb. The warning light should come on with all the other lights when you turn on the ignition and go out when you start the car. 3 options if they're not installed really: 1/ replace the bulb and sensors and have it working. 2/ remove the bulb and hang up the wiring tidily or remove wiring (not much point). 3/ replace the bulb, hang up the wiring, but short the two wires together to trick the system into thinking its working. That way the light works, but there's no sensor to replace. These are just pad wear sensors, so if you keep up the maintenance on your vehicle, there is no danger - it is not like an ABS or airbag sensor. However, if you are one of these people that don't periodically check your pads, and a lazy WOF guy misses the wear, then the system will make you think all is well. I have done option 3 on my car as I check my pads every oil service, plan on keeping the car for a long time, and want the bulb to function as it should for aesthetics.

Hi All, lately we have had a number of members sign up simply to sell something on the for sale forum. Most of these members are not from NZ, and are retailers without permission to advertise, or scam artists. As a result, all new members now require 10 or more posts to create new For Sale threads. All members can still view and reply in existing for sale threads. All existing members need to make at least 1 post for their access to be restored. (This does not apply to moderators, admin, race-series competitors, or sponsors - just general members). If you cannot make a new thread in the For Sale forum it is probably because you have not made a post since the change was put in place. In this case, all you need to do is reply to any other bimmersport thread, and your full access to For Sale will be restored. Sorry about the inconvenience, but this is the way the forum software works. Cheers everyone. Graham.

I'm the same. It's just too far away! Good luck.

I think the problem there is they didn't make a pre-f/l 325iS Don't be a fool Sam, Rock that F/L loud and proud!

I can supply: Tow bar Boot Seal Centre console with handbrake boot at the prices you offer ($85 total) plus freight from Kerikeri. I can supply photos if you need them, but only if you are prepared to pay the freight (the seal and console will be cheap, but the towbars are heavy!) By the way, you need to add a zero to your extractors price - these go for between $600 and $1500 up. And 5x or more the offer for cruise control - you need the cable, servo, brackets, computer, loom, stalk, column trim, micro switches for clutch pedal and you'll need to research how to get the wiring sorted. I wouldn't even remove it from the car for you for $60, let alone let you have it for that much.

Have a good one Mike. Why not? Merged. My guess would be celebratory drinks???

Loved the yellow one in Classic Car a few months ago. Interesting history these cars have.

Must be the width and the offset creating an optical illusion.

Is that wheel/tyre combo the correct size? Look too big - or is it optical illusion? What were previous/current tyre sizes? It's very bright! Am I allowed to say I thought it was better before?

Got the stock springs and rims? Chuck them back in - it'll sell faster and for more. Get the wheel straightened - cost maybe $200 unless its past being fixed (ie cracked), and then chuck them on TM separately. I've done this in the e30 on a previous set of 17's. Bent 1 rim and blew 2 tyres on a pothole. Had to sit cursing, swearing, and throwing my toys on the side of the road for an hour waiting for a family member to bring me another spare. Massive downer.

You're not getting your clear to "flow" so its drying matt. Caused by either not enough thinner (but you're using a can), or drying too fast, or a bad product. Did you shake the can properly? I'd try a different brand. Just don't put it on too thick to try and compensate for the lack of flow - it'll run.