Beeker2

Imagine the rust in it

Interior is pre allocated. Sorry.

I'm after some suspension spares and a few sundries. PM me.

very good!

Mini update. Changed the rear trail arm bushes (RTAB's) myself. Started the hack way and then managed to borrow a proper RTAB bush removal/insert tool (thanks Tom). Also inserted some of Tom's limiters. First bush (hack way) 4 hours.... Second bush (right tools), approx 40 minutes Old bush didnt look so bad until you pull in it with a screw driver and realise the insert has broken away from the rubber: Old bush out new bush in (genuine BMW) hack tool to pretension (align the plate prior to tightening of the bush throu bolt) Job complete. Now just the wheel alignment. PS. There is allot of web info around measuring bush offset (generally 1/16") and re-installing the new bush as the same, but as everyone has now moved to the new bush which is symmetrical on both sides, I made the big assumption that the bush should be centered in the housing. If anyone can confirm this it would be good. ie like this, where the bush Alu outer sits outside the arm equally on both sides

Service Crew Wanted for Targa South Island, see this link: http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/49534-service-crew-wanted-for-targa-south-island-october/

BNT, errr...I went there and they could not help me...

Had a quick look around and cant find a suppliers. Any ideas? Something like this:

Dumb question, but for those turned bolt heads which are exposed, did you not try vice grips?

Keep the updates coming, i'm learning lots.

Whats the new price from BMW ?

Best of luck.

For parts yes, but they don't seem to offer a refurb service like Dr Vanos does. Note: Still getting my head around how much work there is on the deinstall as opposed to the actual refurb.

Crashing the post I'm thinking of a turnkey refurb from Dr Vanos. Any negatives in using them that you have considered?

Update: Dropped the car into Bellars to do a smoke test on the inlet, as there is lots of reports of lost power due to vacuum leaks on these aging cars. The good news is that there was only minor leaks around #1 and #6, and at a level that it would not affect anything. Mostly around the two trumpet seals. The bad news! Well i consider it good news, as I've avoided disappointment during a race. The CPU has logged a 'Vanos Retard valve' error, and essentially had a stuck vanos solenoid. With a ECU actuation process it unstuck itself and is now working ok. The car is now idling much smoother (no wonder with vanos stuck to high rev mode). However I'm not confident that this is a permanent fix, so i'm now committed to a vanos de-install and refurb by Dr Vanos in the US. Will get this done once the cage is in. Also... So much for my prior inspections, as the rear trailing arm bush (upper) is stuffed apparently. Glad I found that now. Will get another OEM M3 bush for it next. PS. Bellars were very good and i see why people like them.

x2. Do it once, do it right. No rework required.

Ordered these (subject to fitting the car). They are F'n expensive, but when you consider that the critical thing between you and injury (or worse) is the seat, it doesn't pay to cut corners. Was originally gonna get the trusty 4009HR, but talked myself into the new 4119 which has the new three point mount system and also a rear seat vent. When on targa you get very hot and very tired; anything you can do to keep fresh will help your concentration, get better results and help you stay safe. Surprisingly i take the tall seat even know i'm 5, 11". I could have taken the std + smaller seat cousin, but didn't want to run into comfort issues when sitting in the car all day. see:

A proud jafa But the car will be in the mainland for the one and only October targa rally of the south island.

At the moment i'm keeping the front brakes as full race spares.

thanks have PM'ed you. I'm a perfectionist who likes doing thing right (sensible level), so it should be a good example once finished. As for my driving skills, that's another story! PS. If you thought you had sideways action before, you should try it with a 3.91, single mass flywheel, twin plate and ramped up LSD.

I'm looking at a proactive refresh of my E36 M3 3.0 (S50b30) vanos unit. Its producing good power right now (174wkw at Torque P), but does have an uneven idle, but moreso I want a reliable vanos for race events. I like the idea of an expert doing the rebuild and myself (or mechanic) doing the simpler removal or reinstall. Any feedback on these guys? http://www.drvanos.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=3&Itemid=4

Mini update Fitted new Fuel filter Replaced this perished (after market) fuel line and incorrect fuel line clamps Notice how the std (non fuel line clamps) have eaten into the rubber Joined the pad wear sensor wires and reinstalled as the AP kit doesnt support this and i wanted dash error light gone and the rear pad sensor working. Might do a v2 later and concern it all within the plastic housing. Random photo, but this shows how fat the 32mm rotors are as well as the extra meaty pads

Nice work. I like the 'proven' approach with milestones dyno's to prove it.

Changed the plugs tonight. To my surprise it had 5x Bosh RO 985 (correct BMW spec) and 1x RO 788! They look similar to the eye, but who knows on heat range etc.

I need to replace this perished rubber fuel line, just short of the E36 M3 fuel filter. Where is a good place to buy some short lengths? Note, its under the car so needs to be robust. PS. BMW don't sell it as a separate item