bellicose

Please explain what a "piano black finish" is.

Don'tt be like that man, so ya grandparents like "swinging", each to thier own Use to do the exact same thing.......................think i'll go to the $2 before the guns and caps get banned for being "dangerous"

No worries man. My son had a VS not long ago with a 304 converted to carby (supposedly a good conversion because of the bigger ports of the EFI heads). Harrop manifold, 650 Holley, cam and headers, and the damn thing was still slower than my manual 3.8 VR ute..............so he sold it haha.

Yes the EFI was introduced in the VL SS GRP A SV in '88, but you said "Yeah, but we kinda have to remember that that engine was designed in the 80's", i corrected you in saying 1969, which is in fact when Holden started using that design of V8 in the 253 capacity, then upped it to 308 and then bought it down to 304 to fit under the then current GRP A touring car reg's. Also the EFI makes NO difference to the sound of those V8s because as i said they have an odd firing order. Ya seem a little defensive in ya answers but oh well. Then again, what would i know, 45 years old, bought my first HQ at 14 and had 110 Holdens of various models since. / input.

Ahh umm...........................1969 they started using it, so designed loooong before that haha. Never liked the sound of the Holden V8 (253 - 308 - 304) They have an odd ball firing order and without a X pipe in the system the sound like arse.

HAHA, you're a bogan deep down aren't ya ( i can't talk, i just picked up a '99 VS SII Statesman. Took it for a trip last week up to Ohope, Whitianga & Coromandel, such a luxo barge i was bored sh1tless driving it haha) I wouldn't bother with the Gilmer drive mate, they have a habit of running alternator and water pump bearings. For some reason they NEVER fit the 5.0lt properly. Have a couple of mates in oz who've resorted to machining their own brackets to get everything lined up perfectly (one of them even had a bottom pulley plucked off because of alignment issues) But being a bogan myself i fully understand you wanting to put them on hehehe.

I have the best radar detector in the world bar none, it's my brain which is hard wired to my right foot. And ya know what............it was free and came with my birthday suit.

Why is the seller of the white E36 supplying a pic' of a bit of 100mm wood? Does he not know you can have the "body kit" (side skirts) as low as you like? It's all the mechanical and structual bits that have to be above 100mm. Also, why do people insist on putting the Alpina boot badge on the wrong side? It should be on the drivers side, so right hand drive = right side, left hand drive = left side. I guess i'll put it down to too much trolling for pic's on the interweb looking at Alpinas pfft.

Can see it now. Bloke takes his new Merc' into dealers for its first major service, pops back in the afternoon to pick it up only to be told "We are terribly sorry sir, we will need to keep the car here for a few days. Just as a matter of curiousity, have you been doing a lot of traveling?" "Not really, in the last 6 months my wife and i have been to the beach house at Coromandel once or twice and we drove down to Queenstown for a bit of a ski with the lads in the office. Why do you ask?" "Oh it's just a small matter sir, it seems the NZ roads have played havoc with the 'Magic body control' system. No reason for concern sir, we have a complete new system in the air from Germany as we speak and your car will be ready for you a week from Wednesday. Oh and sir, as a side note for the accounts dept', would you like the account for $62,000 sent to your residence or office?. Please excuse me asking sir, it's just that Mercedes-Benz will not be covering this issue as it seems the car has been driven.....ahhhh.........shall we just say........carelessly" If they really want to test that system, send one to NZ for a year and let Joe Public drive it on our roads. Then again being Mercedes-Benz it'll be an option that isn't available in any country that doesn't have silky smooth roads.

They only use the "shape". The Nissans are 25mm wider in the rear wheel arches and the front arches are 45mm further forward (as is the front wheel centre line compared to production Altima). The only production parts used are the 'A' pillar, roof skin (including outer roof rails), boot & bonnet. Before the COTF came into force this year the old Holden VEs were actually 100mm shorter than the production cars (they took that 100mm out of the centre of rear doors). Just watched the vid' in the link posted, they say 92mm shorter so i was wrong BUT not by much. Yes i am an avid V8Supercars watcher. (or should that be 'train spotter' haha)

Not for an E38.

Volvo will be using their 4.4lt OHC V8 stroked to 5.0lt (or maybe tweek bore) Merc's sound different because of the 'flat plane' crank they use, i actually kinda like the sound of them. Rumour has it the next manufacturer in will be Audi with BJR (Brad Jones Racing) given their long association in the 90s & early 00s.

It turns out that an E38 boot lid (at point where lip spoiler attaches) is 135cm wide which as it happens is very near (within 5mm) what my current cars boot lid is so E38 one will work. Brent, could you PM or e-mail me a price on an E38 one please.

Or have one laying around they're not useing. Can't post pic's as something up with attachments thing. But here's the thread Nick021 had about them. http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....=23240&st=0

As i said, the only thing to get in the way is imagination. Black on black E39 with gold centered RS's and a thin gold leaf stripe through the centre of the gloss black interior trims......................you can't tell me that wouldn't look any good.

The way ya sis it is fine mate. The colour...............................ummmm. Personally i like the woodgrain look (I have a Holden Statesman full of it haha) and think maybe it could've been saved. But it's your car and i'm in no way having a go at ya I'm waiting for someone to put their hand up to let me do their woodgrain trims, the only limiting factor is their imagination. Carbon fibre, woodgrain, brushed ali' or even rusty plate steel look, i can do it all.

Oh dear

Point taken.

He asked for advice, so that's what i've given based on 30 years of using compressors. Would you rather we all said "yeah mate, those SC ones are fantastic nad perfect for rattle guns and what not" or would you rather we all give advice based on experience? I know what i'd rather.

The minimum you should get mate is a belt driven one with at least 50lt tank, with air tools it's not so much the flow rate but the initial oomph when the trigger is pulled that you need. The biggest drain on a compressor tool wise is, spray gun, sander, rattle gun & media blasting. Yes you will have people sayin' "yeah bro, i blasted &/or painted all this stuff with my little compressor", the main question then is 'How many weeks did it take you?' Also something to consider is 'cycle rate', that's how often a compressor starts & stops during a given period (usually measured by the hour) with something like a spray gun or media blasting gun attached. There's nothing more frustrating then doing a job and constantly having to stop to wait for compressor to catch up. One trick is find an old LPG/CNG tank and tee it in and use that as the reciever, so you have the compressor tank with a hose going to the extra tank, you take your hose off the extra tank, works ok for high consumption tools. Attached a (not very good) pic' of mine. It's one i kinda did myself, the pump is only xmall being 12cfm and the motor is a 2.5hp BUT the tank is 160lt. It gives me FAD of 550 litres per minute (19 cfm) which is perfect for me. Cycle rate is 6 per hour at 50 psi, that means it starts & fills 6 times in an hour when it's constantly providing 50 psi at the gun. AND another thing to watch is hose length, most hoses you'll get with the home hobby compressor will lose between 3 and 8 psi per 10 foot of length. So if you have a 20ft hose on a retractable roller there goes between 6 & 16 psi before it even gets to your tool. Hope this hasn't confused ya even more mate. (all this has been trial & error for me over the last 30 years)

Those spray guns are CRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAP. A mate bought that kit and brought them around home for me to see why they weren't working properly. The fluid tip was bigger than the needle (so liquid poured out without pulling trigger) The needles in all 3 guns were bent & the caps wouldn't fit (shrunk) after they were exposed to thinners..................hello, they're are spray guns.

Chris is correct, a good 2nd hand one will be the best option. 6 CFM will NOT drive any air powered tools, also the bigger the tank the better. Direct drive compressors are notoriously (sp?) bad for sh1tting shafts and seals as after a not too long period the stress of directly driving the shaft takes a toll. A quick search on TM, This is the kind of thing you need to look at mate, although i'm a bit suspect where it says 3hp as from what i know 2.5hp is 'bout the max on a 10 amp (household) plug because the draw on start up is huge with a compressor. But even if it is really a 2.5hp it will be perfect for what you want. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-...n-600552207.htm Please do not buy a SC one, spend a little more and you won't be disappointed. Just my 2c

Probably $1500. I sold my VERY rusty 3 litre manual for $500 & my 2.5 auto for $1000. That's not owned by 2 brothers is it? I sold my 2.5 to 2 brothers who were rebuilding their dads 2.5 / auto. They bought mine because they got the gearbox rebuilt in their dads one but it wouldn't go into reverse, so the bought mine just for the gearbox. PS: The brothers were both in their early 50s and i think their dad had the E3 from new.

Rat rod BMW? Does that make every '32 Ford with a small block chev' engine a chev'? He seems to be on a de-volution path, what's next, Fred Flintstones car with some BMW decals? Just my 2c worth of dig at the Burroughs fanboys.

Check thrust arm bushes.