yng_750

The amount of people who want a new sunroof is slim and out of them not many want to cut up their roof for a pop up when you cna just get a second hand one. The market for these is more likely to work for caravans, van and old cars. even then dont expect a group buy, you could buy 5 and sell the other four on trademe over the next year or so and maybe break even. If you need to plug the hole you would be better finding a non sunroof roof and stiching the whole roof onto the car.

no pics showing?

sounds more like you have put it into limp mode or similar.

the number plate is almost "fudge" which workes on a fudged car

that buzzing is probably the o2 sensors pre heating.

turners offered me $1200 of mechanical insurance for $600 per year but excess was going to be $900 per issue

yea should do. if car is purposefully trying not to start it may fix the issue long enough to start then stall. much like you had originally but should then throw code.

its worth have a poke around to get an idea of whats happening but might as well wait for code reader

the "light" is a hydrometer which measures acid density. they work roughly but only test one cell and even then arent accurate. once its going get a proper battery test at supercheap or similar

pull the fan off and see if it runs out of the car, one bolt being over torqued can slightly twist the frame and they run very tight clearances, this is why most fans dont come with solid brackets.

park outside like the rest of us you posh fu... if you have 240v available you can run a trickle charger, most people prefer solar as its free and no cords but only works outside. you do get a tiny amount of solar power off artifical light but only like 5% of normal sunlight so not usually worth it.

if its something like a CPS it wont spark as it doesnt know the engine is moving, be careful with coils, if you run them with no ground or no plug in them they can fry. i believe you can sit your head under the car behind the left wheel and click ignition to the on position you should be able to hear the fuel pump hum for a few seconds. not sure about this though? have a sniff of the exhaust after its been cranking, if no spark you should smell fuel.

SE means sports equipment but usually its consists of a different steering wheel and other trim items, nothing to major and nothing performance orientated

Portrait photos hurt my brain

e39 cigar lighter plug stays active even when ignition is off so a $30 solar charger from supercheap can be plugged in here and left on the dash

most of it was standard then too, just specifies whats needed for what market. i.e. high stop light and KPH speedo. and what trim to use. i dont spot anything overly optional being selected.

mine was the sensor on the left hand hand head looking at the engine from front to rear, just behind the MAF take top cover off and you can trace the lead back to the wiring loom above the injectors and unplug it there. if you unplug it there should be three wires. test resistance between two ( i believe it is the two end wires) you should get a reading of between 500- 600 ohms on a multi meter. im not sure what wires they are so try all three combinations, should have that 500-600 on one and either 0 or infinite on the other two. it unbolts from the block with one allen head bolt. all the help i can give, as thats what mine did, so if your bored maybe try that should be same procedure for crank sensor. could be heaps of things but mine did the same thing, started chugged stopped and that was it. i got a used one from brent for about $80 if i recall but that was a while ago i could be wrong. put it in and started first pop.

you can buy a scanner. Peake seem to make a good one. (beware cheap ones on trademe, most wont work with an e39 and even if they do they dont read all the data) Peake version will cost around $350 out of the US. proper shop scanners that cost thousands will always do a better job IMO

where in the country are you. all bmw workshops and dealers can scan. if not then most euro friendly workshops usually have a scan tool if not then some auto sparkys might, i had a similar failure on my 740i was the cam position sensor. I manually tested sensors until i found that but only because i couldn't get to a scanner, would have been much faster that way

just another quick thought that struck me. headers. if you buy aftermarket e36 headers they wont clear the steering due to the steering being at the rear. modifying that end of the manifolds can be a major pain. the way i see it the m52 leans more towards the exhaust side. so if you got some nice m20 e30 headers that clear the subframes and even mount onto the factory exhaust etc you could just shorten the top end somewhat and put an e36 flange on. the engines have the same cylinder spacing so that strikes me as the easiest way to get proper long tube headers on without getting something custom made. if you got some sent out unassembled it would make it much easier im sure. just my thought of the day.

you can probably claim incompetence but im sure your premiums will go up. he will probably just blame it on the new guy at the shop

Sound like yet another cowboy who thinks they can dodge court rulings by changing the business name. If he trys to dodge you by changing businesses etc i would be filing to have the debt put directly on him. if hes bankrupt he cant own a business etc which might convince him to pay up. lets hope lockiess15 isnt in him for to much money, wouldn't be the first person to lose their deposit when a company falls over, also wouldn't be the first person to find their car or parts sold to cover a bill and the owner gone. Sounds like the man knows how to fix cars but has no idea how to build motorsport vehicles. theres a big difference, and only years of experience can make you good enough to build a race engine. 10 seconds on boost vs 15 minutes on boost is a massive difference. In this day and age all you have to do is remind him that you are happy to create facebook pages etc detailing his work and dodgy tactics, let him decide whats best for business.

slightly unrelated but i have heard of people adjusting racks to give better feel and more feedback through the wheel by reducing the amount of power assist not sure if bmw racks can be done like this, in saying that going for a faster rack should give a heavier feel anyway.

yea anything welded no matter how well on cast iron will not stand up to rally. it can be welded but first hit will shear it.

just an update Z3 non-M racks are all the same. - LINEAR ratio (same rack travel per input turn across the entire rack length) - 53.5 mm of linear rack travel per 1 360 degree rotation input. - 144.5 mm of total rack travel (translates to 2.7 turns L2L) - installed 13.9:1 ratio Z3 M racks and '96+ E36 M3 racks are the same. - PROGRESSIVE ratio (rack is slower on-center, quicker towards L&R rack locks) - 45.5 mm of linear rack travel on-center per 1 360 degree rotation input. - 145.6 mm of total rack travel(translates to 3.2 turns L2L) - installed 15.6:1 mean ratio - Same p/n rack as E36 non-M, but locks were modified to shorten gear travel from 154.7 to 145.6mm '95 M3 racks are the slowest and shortest of all US-spec E36 racks, until 200 deg of rotation from on-center. - PROGRESSIVE ratio - 39.0 mm of linear rack travel on-center per 1 360 degree rotation input. - 117mm of total rack travel (translates to 3.0 turns L2L) - installed 17.6:1 mean ratio M3 rack is actually inferior as it doesnt move as far due to different steering geometries on m3 spindles.