yng_750

So i have an e39 540i 1998 I have a recurring issue that is slowly getting more prevalant. Occasionally the coolant gauge will quickly flick all the way to the red end of the gauge. Using the hidden dash functions i can see this is sending a signal of -128'c which is what you get all the time with an open circuit (plug off the sensor) This usually will sit here for a couple of mins then drop back to a normal signal. used to do it once a month or so and is now 4-5 days a week The car has had a new thermostat and i have just installed a new coolant temp sensor but it hasnt changed anything. the sensor has 4 wires, presumably two for gauge and two for ecu? does the gauge function run through a control unit or just straight to the dash? im narrowing it down to either a half broken wire somewhere or the dash playing up. wiggling wires etc doenst change it and turning the car off then on again usually fixes it. this makes it sound like a computer or dash issue but im a little lost. not sure if it matters but it usually plays up when coolant is around 60'c and comes back at around 75'c not always but common.

Looking for EOI My father has a good condition LSD out of an 1991 e32 750il available. Not sure if it is a medium or large case and not sure of ratio but i will find out and update ASAP. if you have any other major parts needed off a 750 let me know and i will see whats available. Parts are located in Mount Maunganui but can ship

ive fount trade places like bnt or tradezone are best for the spot weld drills. Take some measurments for distance between gaurds etc and diagonal distances before you cut, its not likly to get out of square but if it does those measurments will save your life

different issue but dont warrent people hate fiberglass bonnets and bonnet pins at all corners unless its a caged car? tube front end would look awesome, heaps of room to put electric fans

yea some cert guys are like that. If you build it to a quality level of what was shown before i can see you having any issues. just bear in mind he doesnt have a bonnet mounted, could get very tricky there with hinges, latches etc everything gotta line up.

it is a structural item but im not sure i would say its a impact critical item. it should be ok with a well designed bar. i would do some research get photos of what you want to build, what is standard and whats connected. then go talk to a certification guy, they have to do the cert so their decision and they should be able to give good input. would make engine changes much simpler

you cant put diesel in it no matter how much it feels right

go for what is most reliable. going manual will make the biggest difference to performance.

mmm keen, wont have any money for a month or so. always good cars around when im not buying

I like you chase but next time im in auckland we are going to have to talk about what you did to the poor intake manifold...

that toy wasnt a land mine by any chance was it?

link

cool. heaps of good info there. i just thought it odd that people would go from a 318i convert it then spend heaps of money upgrading the trim etc to 325 levels. most would have been cheaper to start with a better car. The only other thing that got me was people spend more on the m52 then move it back to obd1 and get rid of the vanos etc. Not planning to do the conversion any time soon but a 2.8 screaming in an e30 coupe makes me tingle in certain places.

just out of interest i have been looking at a few project threads about e30s getting m52 conversion. it seems many people are using 318i 4cyl as the base car. is this just a price thing? i would presume 325is would have bigger brakes and a stronger gearbox/diff. not to mention better interior fitout etc or is this not a really noticeable difference? also is the box off a 318 really strong enough for a 2.8, or do people again make do due to price.

mint, if you have time then let them sit and cure as much as possible, scrape off any areas that need to be smooth within 24 hours or it will get very very hard to move, i left mine on over the oil cap area and the oring didnt seal, made a mess and was very hard to get paint off once its been hot. on the upside i can say it isnt affected by oil. i work at SCA taupo, good to see more bmws in the business.

i used sikaflex 227 urathane, i got it from supercheap, usually used for windscreens so is very sticky. could possibly pop down to a windscreen shop and ask them to glue it with industrial stuff

as chargers become smater they have and short protection this means if you touch them together they wont spark, only downside is it doesnt supply power until it detects a bettery, usually at around 4.5V This means if you battery is at 0v it will not start charging, you can "jump it" by hooking another good battery on for 10 mins or so just to get it started. I would bet that his battery is buggered and the 30 second pulse is it trying to detect a battery. I have a good fast charger and a cheap 2.5a charger from SCA for like $50, as it has a 0v start charge. makes it much easier. keep an eye out on the packaging for start voltage.

i have had good experience with VHT wrinkle finish black and red, goes very hard and wears well. only downside is you need a little heat to help it wrinkle properly and it takes a while to dry, i used a heat bulb over mine for 24 hours last time, i did it in winter so took a while, then you just put it back on the engine carefully and use engine heat to finish the cure. doesnt need primer, can buy it from supercheapauto, they have to order it in (they may not be aware but ask them to search "wrinkle" in their parts ordering system and they will find it. from memory its somewhere around $18 to $20 a can, one can did both my rocker covers on a 740i v8. so cliff notes, powder coating is faster but wrinkle paint is much cheaper.

can be done but as he says yours is already the facelift model

i initially read that as new in box getrag 260, would have been something special.

150usd OPs price is likely worth it when you consider how americans root us on shipping

the website you quoted has it advertised for less than your asking price, may want to change the link

i would get it caged, suspension done and 6cyl put in, you can then work out any issues and turbocharge at a later date. with how little room there is you can expect to spend as much time on the turbo setup as the rest of the car.

for just speakers my e39 (think the same as e38?) had three speakers in each door. optional for big speakers on rear deck but mine has sun shade instead. i replaced just the biggest speaker of the three in each door which is 5 1/4 inch got them from supercheap for about $45 a pair if i recall. made a huge difference, had to wait a few weeks for stock as they are not overly common. wouldnt recommend doing a complete change unless you want to spend big dollars. you can buy adaptors for ipods etc that replace the stacker.

the only excuse for "stance" camber on the back is because you have shoved a big block v8 in the boot and you are on the way home to put it in something small.