yng_750

i dont recall alpine using 10degrees of rear camber in their setups. or "tuning" a 318

i wouldnt mind a pair as well if anyone does them cheap. m62b44 non vanos 1998

nice to see the research being done. if you get stuck in a catch 22 of it costing too much to fix and not being worth selling i would consider flushing the system out and using a bottle of rislone head gasket fix. I have heard good things about it, does a good job sealing even big cracks and splits, only way it will leak again is if a new crack forms. lasts years apparently. Still nothing beats a proper fix but $85 at supercheap vs $1K plus. makes sense if your just going to drive it into the ground so to speak. I would use it on a car i was keeping but wouldn't use it on a car im selling, not because i dont trust it to last because i do.but its just if im honest noone will buy it as they will expect it to blow up at any second, and if i have to be dishonest to sell a car i would rather keep the car and keep my word.

to be honest it sounds like you are better off just trying to find an engine exactly the same as yours, dont mean to be rude or anything but if you try and swap a different engine in and screw it up you can spends massive amounts of money getting someone else to fix it. as with all things do plenty of research then take a moment to step back and think about everything then have a go. also it wouldnt be a bad idea to try to get an engine that comes with ancillaries like the afm and enginebay wiring loom. that way you eliminate the original issue at the same time.

very high probability the head is cracked, very common for these motors. TBH you are probably better off getting a new motor, less labor involved and about the same price as a head.

i think they are a fairly basic control system, probably cant read too much by plugging it in to a computer. only thing to bear in mind is i believe they have two seperate 6 cyl ecus and a third comp to join the two, so an error on one side can give weird sypmtoms. also being a v12 a poor cylinder can be very hard to spot. i believe the lead sets cost over $1100 retail but are also a common issue. i dont think my 750i had that poor performance even in a heavy chassis. made a massive difference removing the cats but i trust you have already done that. best to check with a wideband o2 probe. poor mix at idle from say a leaky intake gasket can jump out with a probe.

talk to the bank, they can reverse the charge (im told, haven't done it myself.) rather than wait silently for him to take you to court i would get a lawyer to write up a letter outlining your rights etc. (sure there a lawyer on here that likes you enough to help out) all the chance in the world he will give up at the sight of trouble because it wll cost him more to take court action than its worth, if he has any doubt he will probably just blame the next person. Also as a side note if he has charged you $700 he must supply you with invoices totaling $700 worth of parts, and it must be reasonable costs, if he bought an old roof it likely has not cost him $700, if he has bought s brand new roof then he should deduct "improvement value" (much like an insurance company will if they repair existing damage along with claimed damage) ring around, if your find 3 or 4 upholstery company's saying you can stitch in a new rear window for $50 then thats all you should pay(if you end up paying). If he then claims that it cost $xxx to get someone over to the island etc that is on him as it would be a reasonable business expense he could foresee when setting up a business in a remote area. I would also put in the letter that you have proof he changed the website which proves he knew full well there were no conditions set out. very common issue on an mx5 to have the rear window crack, it is a maintenance item much like bmw cooling systems.

http://www.stuff.co.nz/national/8840928/Ra...-easily-removed

could be afm or cam/crank position sensors, or o2 senors. or C191 plug upsetting the injectors. just a few options that spring to mind

That sikaflex is very very good stuff. Used by alfas to glue the rear quarter panels on as they dont weld them on some models. Also very very hard to get off again when its been there for a few years

thanks guys, great advice. obviously its lower and stiffer but does the m3 actually have significantly different suspension geometry or just higher quality parts and bushs.

So im liking my 540 especially now that i hve spent enough money on it to make it reliable. after my track session last week im really missing a low slung manual. so im thinking an e36 328i coupe would fill this void if i sold the e39. having a look around i would prefer an e46 but i think they are still a little pricy for the kind of driving i have planned. so back to the e36. i have seen a couple of stunning examples for around $8k and a few high milage one for 2K-3K. im thinking i would be better off waiting for a decent one to turn up for lower cost with a tidy body as i would look at modifying it anyway. i have looked around and from the various brands, superpro, nolathane or powerflex i can do most of the main suspension bushes for $500-$700. Does anyone know of a supplier who does all the other neglected bushes like diff mounts etc or am i stuck with getting new oem rubbers? so the way i figure it if i can spend $7-$8K on it i could very easily buy one for about $3k then redo all the bushes, and decent maintenance reqime on the box/engine. So to those more familiar with e36s does this sound like a decent plan or am i just in for a nightmare if i buy north of 200,000kms?

http://www.csfrancis.net/BMW/pbdiy.pdf so yea should be doable with the rear wheel on or off, but you shouldnt have to take the rotor off, infact that would make it much harder

i havent done the fix but mines the same. apparently e39s are common to need the handbrake adjusting at the rear calipers. havent done it myself but i have seen write ups online.

din 53 should do it, a 65 should fit also but probably overkill., bmws usually have a movable mount to cope with different sizes. Repco batteries are rebranded century. Century are also sold at Supercheap, got mine there for $229 with a 3 year warrenty. works great and they take the old one away for free for recycling. they were also maintanance free. Dont forget to take the vent hose elbow out of the old one and slot it into the new one. was $249 for the din65 if you did want to go bigger.

yea it wont bring up a code but if you have a proper code reader than can view live data then you can see what outputs each sensor is giving, you will probably find one has vastly different reading from the rest, will have to go to a proper bmw tech for that as those readers dont come cheap or just buy one used one from brent and change them in turn until it stops.... assuming only one is faulty

sold, awaiting payment and pickup.

not sure but doeasnt the m5 have a screen display that shows where you are close to something? or is that just later models. possibly unplug each sensor in turn if you can get to them ok,

you should be fine, it may takea couple of seconds for the oil to force the air out but it does that every time the oil is changed and the filter is removed (much more air in that case), just disconnect it and start the car when its back on, if the oil light stays on for more than 20 seconds or so it may be air locked but it would be very unlikely

sky has lost broadcasting rights english premier league. now that 80% of the sport channel will be freed up i wonder if we will see v8 support races etc.

these are amazing plugs, so are the qup version. though you wont usually find either for a price this good. i would be buying some but i just replaced mine 2 weeks ago.... paid over $300 dammit

open to offers at this stage. havent had the time to give it the attention it deserves, still not sure if the headgasket is blown or not. And i used the tyres on my e39 at the track so now the 18s have less than legal tread. battery also seems to be failing though could just not be holding charge because i dont use the car. Still ideally looking for $1000 but that would now include the 18" msport wheels. txt me

I was surprised that i had no issue with fluid. Pedal stayed fairly consistant. Pads just faded and lost grip, even then it was fairly easy to feel them going rather than them just fading instantly as i have had in the past. Got up to 180 on the back straight but took 200 meters to get it down to 60 again which is pretty sad. Was good fun being alone as i could get it very sideways in the wet and not worry about other people if it bit back too hard. They have another on tomorow at 4 but im stuck working. Not sure how often they will run them. Hopefully more in summer.

That was an absolute blast. Due to it being their first ever afternoon track day i got the entire track to myself. 540i managed to go for the entire hour without issue. could do about 2 laps hard then one easing off to stop the brakes cooking to badly. did a 2.04 around the long track, not sure how good that fares but it got very interesting when it started raining. heaps of fun catching the fairly snappy oversteer. could do with a faster steering rack but hey cant complain. Deff going to go on track again.

insurance doesnt cover it, but its only a car. have driven street and track cars on tracks so i know its more fun to do an hour at 80% than 5 mins at 100% im not actually going to drive for an hour just making a point. be interesting to reset the average fuel consumption calculator before i start.