yng_750

rough estimate not knowing condition... 6K-10K

sounds like a bearing. Would very much advise splitting the box before you decide. If its just bearings then its not a huge job,just clean everything then reassemble with new bearings and oil. if you can get the box out or cant do without the car then i would suggest getting a new box and slowly rebuild this one as a spare. Dont be too worried, a little chip out of the bearing race can make a huge amount of noise and doesnt always do other damage. and as long as you have a haynes manual and do it step by step manual gearboxs arent to hard to rebuild, just make sure you have good light and a very clean work area.

i will try to take an angle shot as i agree that the acs look better with their comparitivly huge dish. The ACS mags have abit of paint chipping from wheel braces and shitty tyre shops. does anyone know where i could get that shade of silver to restore them.?

trying to decide which wheels i keep on the 540i e39 18" 2012 530 msport mags or genuine ACS 17" mags Im leaning towards my acs as they have brand new tyres compared to bald tyres on the 18s sorry about crap quality image, average camera + fingerprint on lens = crap

love the guys who are keen to catch a 200kg tyre going 120kph

sounds weird. My first step would be checking the battery terminals and 100% cleaned and holding tightly. Also check battery is running very well, some mechanical failures in batteries can cause surges. (borrow a battery if you can) If that doesnt work getting a bmw specialist to scan it and check the electrics would be the only other option.

quote of the week

those are some seriously small intake restricters

bit of a tragedy for his family but i hope they dont start a vendetta against sharks. Thats one kill in how many decades? they kill less people than dangerous dogs. If they were saving him i can understand shooting the shark but i doubt it was still going on when they fired.. Time for a shark attack is much less than time for someone to call 111 then get a cop down there with a gun in a boat and to the scene. Also since when did our cops have guns.... should have pepper sprayed the shark

$60 shipped?

diesel + turbo + tall diff + big tyres = huge top speeds

i think you mean slush in drive out???

not sure about fault codes but i has similar in my 540i it only did it once, i opened it but it wouldnt close, turned ignition on and off but no difference. i moved manually with the hex tool, after that its worked perfectly with no issues

Thanks brent will probably wire into the low speed side of the existing sensor and see how it goes,if its getting warmer than i would like i might order the lower temp one. The only other thing i notice is most people wire the positive feed for the sensor side of the relay from a switched power source in the diagnostic port is there any harm in taking the power (fused of course) directly from the battery? i understand if the relay sticks it will run the battery down but that is not a huge risk, and the benifit would be if the car is hot it would keep the fan going for a few minutes after parking up. only risk i can see is it back feeding up the signal wire to the previous factory relay but its all the same voltage so it shouldnt bother it.

i have seen lots of wierd issues result from a faulty battery so if it needs replacing anyway its not a bad place to start. Other than that as gleen said it really needs scanning, as there are many issues that could cause this, from coils to crank angle sensors. far to expensive to just blindly through parts at it.

how much are aftermarket versions?

so im doing some work on a e36 323i that has had some temp issues. seems the thermostat randomly jammes shut, can drive about 25km at 100kph at normal temp then jumps up very quickly. anyway we have got a new water pump,slightly cooler thermostat, aux belts, rad cap etc etc While we are here we will be installing a 16" electric fan as the fan clutch is getting pretty weak. Having viewed a couple of diys online they use the fan switch as the ground for their trigger feed. They always seem to splice into the high speed side of the plug. ( its three wires so i presume one ground and a high and a low speed relay feed.) Questions are 1.switches that are for sale on pelican parts are a 80/88 switch and a 92/99 switch, am i right in presuming that this car willhave a 92/99 and the 80/88 is just an aftermarket option. 2. would it not be better to install into the low speed side to get cooling asap if it is a 92/99 switch. thermostat is a 89' so fan at 92 would be good right? Thanks in advance

would you do $500 shipped to taupo? shipping depot to depot is usually between $70 and $100 in my experiance

yea looks like the front suspension is missing. hopefully it might get spotted somewhere. i would be very very keen for a couple of gps trackers

i have heard you need to go the opposite way from factory torque guide. i.e. start at either end and move towards the center, start by cracking them loose one after another then move to actually winding them out. better to turn the cam to the point where its putting pressure on as many valves as possible, i.e. when one cylinder is just switching between exhaust and intake valves. i have done it the proper way and the stupid way of starting from one end and moving down , i never had any issue either way, but you can imagine having half the valve springs pushing against the cam when its only held by two bolts at one end. p.s. most of that only applies to cams that push directly onto the valves hence having pressure on all the time. if you have rockers that can be removed hence releasing the pressure there should be no risk.

pics?

definantly a fatigue issue. is it the head bolt? also did you get the rest of the bolt out. its so much work to do a gasket your best to get the head inspected and machined. that being said i personally would clean it up and look for damage before you send it out to a machine shop. better you find a crack than pay someone $100 to find it for you

ok so i have a set of 17" schnitzer that are getting a little rough no curbing just chipped paint, probably from a crappy tyre machine operator. anyone know if there is a particular shade of silver they use? or where i can find some? i would like the wheels to match the center caps.

i will rephrase that. if you want to quick check by eye you dont need the cams out, if you want a machine shop to check properly strip it. though a broken bolt wouldnt normally also cause a cracked head etc. i would be looking into why the bolt snapped. if there is oil staining over much of the sheared area i would say it has fatigued, if its clean the whole way it has broken from one big force which could be something much worse. this is what a fatigued rod bolt looked like after it snapped, you will notice the 1mmx2mm silver area that had been taking all the load until it gave way.

he privately purchased it so i doubt he will be covered by sales of goods act