yng_750

you dont need to remove the camshaft etc to check the head. just take it off give it a really good clean up and look for any cracking,pitting or discolouration.

dinan make an m5 kit but again would likely need to be modified for the e46 looks mint though

depending on the material its made of could you shorten it where the AFM joins on?

soft ducting looks tacky in my opinion. especially in a engine bay that looks like bmw made it that way. I would say get factory looking plastic/alloy/CF piping down to cold air boxs where the factory m5 boxes would sit. From there duct from down low but keep the soft ducting/ filters hidden. This one retains original bottom half of factory m5 airboxes, but easy enough to make something else work. I just like that the pipes are joined, makes it look more german to be honest

If the car is tidy try sell it. ive seen many cars with near terminal engine issues go for very good money due to people kidding themselves about how much it will cost to fix

nah no whistling sound my guess is that would occur when a rocker cover gasket gives way to the pressure and starts letting air into the engine.

i would personally go rebuild, but dont forget to do lots of research, these are not simple engines and you need so many specialist tools like cam holders etc. also if you dont want to shell out huge money just yet look into rislone head gasket repair. will run you about $90 at supercheap auto. people turn their nose up at it and ignore then enormous amount of science behind the chemicals it uses. but it usually works, and when it works it is a permanant fix .

i had to replace the big hose that goes to the brake booster valve its ideally a 10mm vacuum hose but i used 9mm fuel hose which is all i could find at the time.

i doubt it will, the hose is fairly thick and its only about 10mm in length at most between the ends of the two plastic connections not too bad, the big hose was near on impossible and had to be ripped apart to get off. the small vacuum hoses were easy the yellow rings slide down to lock them on so you pull those off (reuse on new ccv) and the hoses come off no prob. the hose setup is a little different to some you see on the american videos but still pretty basic.

valve stems usually smoke after sitting at idle and startup CCV smokes usually at startup only But yea dipstick or oil cap is best test.

Yea had a great day. everyone just left me alone to sit in the nice sunshine playing with my car. made better seeing as my house is perched over the boat harbor on lake taupo all i could hear all day was 1000s of horsepower roaring around the lake courtesy of the offshore powerboats doing their thing. Perfect weekend

id say still do the ccv first you know for certain that its ripped the diaphram inside, all it can do is get worse. fix that then see how it runs AFM is very easy to swap but alot of money if its not broken

yea very common issue in these cars unfortunately when they start sucking oil even small amounts it kills o2 sensors and plugs so people often spend money they dont need to after reading the codes. i just did mine without too much issue its the whole rear cover on the intake manifold. very much a part you need to get OEM, aftermarket almost always warp and fail. will cost around $190 from the dealership for cover and gasket. part numbers are 11-61-1-729-728 for gasket and 11-61-7-501-563 for rear cover. check out and fairly in depth. if you dont think its something you can do id say give botany motor worx a call they should be able to give you a price http://www.botanymotorworx.co.nz/index.html if your car isnt smoking at start up yet id say you can still drive it but to save spending heaps of money on plugs and o2 sensors your better to get it done sooner rather than later. but yea any other questions feel free to ask, i literally finished doing mine 5 mins ago

gave it a good go yesterday. couple of minor stuff ups. firstly the hose that connects the big fitting on the cover and the brake booster will never ever come off. Had to cut it and even when i had it on the bench it has bonded to the plastic and took 10 mins to munch it off with side cutters. 3/8 fuel hose is tight but just fits on as a replacement. Secondly as most importantly when i pulled the cover the pipe that runs to the front of the manifold came with it. It could have been avoided by sliding a screwdriver down in line with the top center screw but i didnt know about that before hand. The front of the pipe connects into a slot at the front of the manifold, i had to take the throttle body off the manifold to put it back in place. which was handy as it allowed me to soak up the liter or so of oil sitting in the manifold at the same time. i went along with what every DIY thread so far has told me which is to buy m6x25 stainless bolts to replace the old ones unfortunately i found out when trying to reinstall that they are bigger than m6 incase anyone was keen to know i found this horribly basic looking tool from supercheap. works perfectly, right length, magnet to hold the bit in, perfect length to clear everything http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-sto...id=222418#Cross

uncompliable but it has a number plate?? just curious

just something to quickly check is the Crank case vent valve. if they die it sucks air out of the engine, bypassing the airflow meter. easy to check. if its broken it will create a large vacuum in the engine. try to open the oil cap when its running, large vacuum will stop you lifting it up, or as i did pull out the dipstick while it running, you would hear loud sucking/gurgling if its damaged. good place to start

make a plug... or hard wire it.

just got the parts delivered looks great, love OEM quality. Also just bought some 316 stainless hex drive m6x25 bolts to replace the crappy factory bolts. Cost $132.23 for the cover and $15.84 for the gasket so not too bad Prob wont get a chance to play with it until saturday though.

sounds like the ideal time to test out the new inspection camera.

Bit the bullet and got a valve and gasket send down from coombes johnston hamilton. should get it tomorow but not sure when i will get a chance t put it in. Will try to take pics and document the process abit. Also on the off chance someone takes advice from this thread. dont buy the half price aftermarket valves. They seem to be very low quality and almost always need replacing within 6 months. Go genuine.

Got it running yesterday Runs fairly strong but still misses when you give it any throttle. IT has even compression but judging by the corrosion i saw im guessing like my last car 525i it has a faulty electrical connection. I forget the name but its the plug under the intake that supplies power to the front three injectors. Last car has the same missing issues but as soon as i hard wired that piece of loom it all came right. Also just as a side note i went with what someone suggested and used washing powder as a flush to get engne oil out of the cooling system. Worked a treat, got all the crap out without damaging the rubber hoses.

yea not too bad as far as parts prices go to be honest at least after this more or less everything that goes wrong commonly with this car will have been done. gearbox rebuilt. radiator, waterpump, thermostat, headlight adjusters, CCV valve list goes on

have sent gavin an email will see what he says monday pelican parts end up being $163 NZD saving $30 isnt worth the wait IMHO will have a look on ebay but at this stage will prob go with someone in NZ

thanks for the help guys. Car isnt smoking now but still running rough. If i pull the oil dipstick i can hear it sucking through and enough air is sucking through there that the engine almost stalls and hunts around. So fairly safe bet to say its the CCV Had a talk to coombes this morning, about $196 for the valve and new gasket Not sure if thats a good price or not? will leave it for the weekend and try to get the e34 back on the road in the mean time

ok will try to pull the rear cover off today. if the diaphram is faulty can it be replaced or does the entire cover need to be done as one unit?