MLM

Looking good how much clearance do you have to the steering column?

12hp with an afm tweak. Not bad!

For those with boot maounted batteries in a E36 (should be nigh on everyone) Is there a circuit breaker or fuse to protect from short circuit? If so what is it rated at? If not does anyone know the peak current drawn (assume this at starting) for a m42 engined car? I intend to boot mount my battery but want to ensure its protected in some way.

Some people go to alot of effort to drag more power from their m42/44........ Honestly it depends on what you want. Enough power to stop the world turning or only to put your personal touch on your car or to create somthing different. Depends what floats your boat. Each has their challenges in complexity/cost or both.

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-4226-tms...k-stop-kit.aspx Need on of these. I think there was a factory option avaialable to.

Oil lines?

I have a BC race wear 2 layer suit. didnt cost the earth and was made to measure. NZ based and easy to deal with. 1 option for you.

P=(850*ED/RPM) -3 from the book: Four stroke performance tuning by A.Graham Bell Also used his calcs for Primary/secondary/tailpipe ID

This is the final Primary layout which fits ok. Lengths are near equal with a range of 40mm from shortest to longest (wider torque spread?). Also included a photo of the factory layout as a comparison. The length range is somthing like 300mm from factory with one primary 120mm long and another over 400mm long.

Was thinking of buying one from auto bend as a base then adding my own venturi. Their collectors seem well made and probably better than i could achieve anyway.

Intake completed. Still working on the exhaust manifold. Its a tricky bugger and weaving tubes arround everything is quite a challlenge. Im on version 2.1 at the moment. Looks promising so far.

By no means am i a suspension expert but 1100 lb REAR springs sounds excessive.... Are you matching it with increased front spring rate too? I dont think spring rate is the method you should follow to achieve a ride height. It may change ride height and swaping springs is relativly easy but spring rate probably has more to do with vehicle weight, suspsnsion loadings and intended use. Maybe look at spring length with matched shock length and valving to achieve the look you want. I would hate to read about you being spat of the road on a wet day on a corner and killing yourself because you didnt have any traction as you skipped from bump to bump down the road.

Ok sounds good. So the cams are reground with a smaller base circle hence the need for lash caps with the hyd lifters? I have heard of welding the valve stem to increase the tip height but this sounds better. A drop in solution on hydros would be easier than setting lash etc What are your opinions of the hyd lifters and rpm limits? it seems 7200rpm is the max rpm for hyd. Also are hyd and sollid cams deifferent design depending on lifter style used? sorry for the barrage of questions, always keen to learn somthing.

I would be very interested. The how,where and what to do with cams is somthing I still need to get my head arround. My research found that there is a 35mm solid lifter with 14.7mm foot for VW's available if i wanted to go solid lifter. Sounds like you are using factory lifters modified to solid lifters? Are you going for a cam regrind locally or a new cam? I would appreciate knowing the ins and outs of this.

Haha no ta, i already have an IS and enough parts to keep me entertained for a while. RHD aftermarket headers seem to be rarer than hens teeth hence why im building my own, just wondered if there was somthing I missed. As for the cars themselfs ive found them a nicly balenced car with great handeling. Im hoping for a bit more power with my mods but it will never be a rocket ship. Definatly an enjoyable car to own if break neck acceleration isnt the top of your list.

ACS Headers for a 318is? Never heard of them before. Do you have any info or a link about them? Can only find 6cyl stuff..

4-2-1. This seems to be the recomendation for a street car to improve bottom end. Somthing that will be useful in a heavy e36..

This might explain what i was getting at better. http://www.utxchange.com/faq/services/air-...ion-guidelines/ Air, I guess, can enter the system at any time from oil airation or starvation plus the air in the system from installation or oil changes??. The ability to purge the air like you would in any coolant system is important via bleed screw or an instalation which cannot trap air by design.

Are the oil cooler lines entering the cooler at the top or bottom. If at the bottom would that not create a air lock within the cooler rendering it in effective. ie only a few rows at the bottom would pass oil while the rest are air?

So Santa wasnt very forthcoming with cams but did drop a bunch of tubes down the chimney. CAD model Progress to date. Clearance arround the steering shaft has influenced the layout though now the runner lengths will be equal and more free flowing than the factory jobbie. Diameters,lengths etc calculated from formula so wil be interesting to see if it works.... and if i can make it fit at all..

A thought on the hinged braces. They would tie the strut towers together, provided the hinge was high quality. A solid strut brace would if you can imagine a square being pushed over at the top to form a parallelogram place huge tensile loads on the top hat bolts. This would be negated by fixing to a firewall. Admittedly the movement would be tiny so probably wouldnt be a problem but a degree or two over the width of the car would be amplified. I dont know how may (if any) people have suffered snapped bolts after fitting a strut brace. You would think the floppier the chassis the more prevalent the problem. Just a thought. Not to say one is better than the other, just offering a perspective of why a particular design may exist.

have a look here: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....26638&st=15

I asked this question about my '92 318is. Here is the responce: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....7&hl=sensor

Have asked Santa for various tube bends.... Will have to revive my CAD model to sort a design with equal/correct length. Its a bit useless having a flash intake without the exhaust to support it.

Final install shot. Shows new dipstick location, sensors attached and ready to run. Will need to relocate battery to the boot as per other e36 models for extra clearance. Staggered trumpets are looking good and it all fits in nicely. Next steps to complete intake. -Relocate battery -Buy filter -Cut hole in filter box for filter tube -Buy flexi tubing to connect plenum to filter box Considering headers and exhaust before final tune.